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Thread: Return of the EUNOS MANTICORE – featuring an Ecotec 2.4 engine swap

  1. #91
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Oh boy, that place looks amazing! Care to share a few more photos?

  2. #92
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    Nice! I miss lakeside living. My grandparents had a house on a lake in northern Iowa (East Lake Okoboji) and I spent most of my summers and as many weekends as I could there.

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    MiataQuest (11-18-2019)

  4. #93
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Oh boy, that place looks amazing! Care to share a few more photos?
    When I was growing up, my grandmother and uncles had a cottage on a nearby lake.
    I spent all my summers there and had many fond memories.
    I hope I can do the same for the my grandchildren.

    It is a small cottage that was built in 1950 that kept getting refurbished and enlarged.
    It has been modified in 3 stages making for a poor floor plan, poor workmanship, and small bedrooms.
    But it is all about the lakefront, sandy bottom, and inviting friends. (You are all welcome to drop by if you are in the Detroit area in the summer)

    I even have the same boats from the old cottage that are still in very good condition.
    One is a 1974 powerboat and a 1960 rowboat!

    The lot is not very much wider than the deck, but it does have a 2-1/2 car garage!
    The garage has no heat and the house has no air conditioning.
    I promised the wife to have central air conditioning installed if we bought the lake house.





    Last edited by MiataQuest; 11-18-2019 at 01:35 PM.

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    Greasemonkey2000 (11-18-2019),HarryB (11-18-2019),Phatmiata (01-16-2021),tsingson (11-18-2019)

  6. #94
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    I had tossed around the idea to sell the Miata Manticore to get a dock and lift.
    But I think I will keep the Manticore to finish my vision, it will just be delayed.

    Here are the Enkei wheels mounted. It will need the fenders rolled as the rear tires will rub on bumps.


    And here is a picture of the the interior after moving the Manticore to the lake house.
    I plan to keep the interior pretty much as it is except for a Revlimiter custom speedometer face to adjust for the 3:90 rear end and a roll bar because of the intended driving style. I got the new floormats installed but still need to install the Roadster doorsills.


    I need to buy a car cover to protect it from UV rays as this garage has many windows unlike the old garage.
    That can be my Christmas gift!
    Last edited by MiataQuest; 12-07-2019 at 11:26 AM.

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    HarryB (12-07-2019),oldgrayleather (12-07-2019),Phatmiata (01-16-2021),tsingson (12-08-2019)

  8. #95
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Really liking the wheels!

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    MiataQuest (12-07-2019)

  10. #96
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    This past fall I performed some maintenance to prepare the Manticore for it's winter slumber.
    One of the actions was to run out the old gas and warm up the oil.
    So a long afternoon drive on twisty roads with fall colors was mandatory.



    I fell in love with my unfinished project all over again. I want to finish it!
    My timeline to finish this project could be long, but I will enjoy the journey.

    I sold our larger old house and we had way too much junk moving to this small house!
    I finally got all the extra junk out of the garage. Downsizing was really tough on my wife.
    Over the past few months I got the garage organized to be a functional work shop. I can find my tools again!
    I even had the garage re-wired and a natural gas heater installed. Garage life is good now!

    Right now I am working on fixing my intermittent starter cranking issue.
    If you seen my walk-around video my car did not start
    I will using a large starter relay under-hood to activate the starter solenoid.
    The main power for the relay will come from the unused anti-lock brake fuse of the electrical box to the Ecotec starter solenoid.

    Another big problem is that my Miata 5 speed shifts really bad.
    I also had concerns about the Ecotec Miata flywheel adapter. Many people were shearing the flywheel bolts or shattering the automatic flexplate that is utilized with the adapter.
    I decided to install an AR5 transmission set-up to eliminate the adapter plate and flywheel adapters (So similar to a stock Pontiac Solstice)
    I purchased a nearly new AR5 transmission with just 40 miles on it from a Slingshot. I also bought everything I needed to complete the swap.



    Then Ecotec Miata came out with a new one piece flywheel. The racers were having good reliability and getting a spot on the podium.
    I decided to give the Ecotec Miata path one more chance since I could try out a 6 speed Miata transmission.
    I think the 6 speed will enhance the driving experience and allow the engine to work well with my 3:90 Torsen rear end.

    I located a 2002 Mazda 6 speed with 33,000 miles about 25 minutes north of Chicago.
    After Christmas I jumped in the 1979 Thunderbird and got it!
    I knocked down 18.5 mpg heading west and 19 mpg on the easterly return. This was at 72 ~76 mph!



    The journey has resumed!
    Last edited by MiataQuest; 01-14-2021 at 08:59 PM.

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    Greasemonkey2000 (01-17-2021),HarryB (01-15-2021),kung fu jesus (01-14-2021),MaRcOp01o (01-15-2021),Phatmiata (01-16-2021)

  12. #97
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift oldgrayleather's Avatar
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    Glad my fears the Manticore had been a casualty of your downsizing were completely incorrect. Great to see you back and excited again about this project!

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    MiataQuest (01-14-2021)

  14. #98
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Have Not much on white Miata's in the past, but seeing yours and how clean it looks with just the right little details, I'm changing my mind! What a Great Looking Car! I've had white cars and the heat savings and the not seeing swirls in the paint as well as looking clean longer are bonuses! Hope the 6 speed is all you want it to be and more. GOD BLESS

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    MiataQuest (01-15-2021)

  16. #99
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    Please strip the paint off that Mazdaspeed type2 wing, that aluminum aerofoil is what makes that wing so special, to cover it with paint would be a shame. just my .02 cents

    So now that you have the side skirts are you going to get the front MS bumper to match? or did you already track one down? this car has really become something amazing!!!! cant wait to see the side skirts painted and installed.

    PS for the side decals, if you do that, why not have it say Mazdaspeed? it would looks so much better, and yes I get the Eunos manticore theme, but but Mazdaspeeeeeeeeeeeeed

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  18. #100
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phatmiata View Post
    Please strip the paint off that Mazdaspeed type2 wing, that aluminum aerofoil is what makes that wing so special, to cover it with paint would be a shame. just my .02 cents

    So now that you have the side skirts are you going to get the front MS bumper to match? or did you already track one down? this car has really become something amazing!!!! cant wait to see the side skirts painted and installed.

    PS for the side decals, if you do that, why not have it say Mazdaspeed? it would looks so much better, and yes I get the Eunos manticore theme, but but Mazdaspeeeeeeeeeeeeed
    I agree that the wing should be bare aluminum. That is what makes it unique.
    I will need to decide if it should be polished or a brushed finish. I also wonder how I should protect it. I was thinking clear anodize if it's polished (since it can adhere) or a clear coat if it's a brushed finish.
    I may need to buy another trunk if I can't get my existing spoiler off without damage.

    The only modification I plan to do to the wing is to add one small turn buckle at the rear of the car going from the aluminum wing to the trunk.
    One of the Ecotec Miata racers was using one of these wings. He says they are very functional and helped his lap times.
    However he said they flex down in the center at higher speeds. It was more stable when re-enforced.
    Also this is what causes the cracking at both outer ends near the trunk.
    "If you wing ain't cracking then your slacking".
    Here is a pictures of the wing bowed going through a turn. It would really be stressed on the straights.



    I really don't like the look of the MS bumper addition. So I bought a Jet Stream lip like the picture.
    I removed my fog lights and will add some turn buckles to the Jet Stream lip to stabilize everything.
    Also removing the fog lights allows more air to the oil cooler, air conditioning condenser, and the radiator.



    The Jet Stream lip, MS side skirts, MS wing, and hard top will all be body color crystal white.

    For the side stripe I was thinking something custom.
    Maybe something like "A Spec Type II"
    But I really need to understand what A spec encompasses so I don't look too stupid
    Is that an obsolete category? I can't find anything about it other than "B" spec.

    BTW, thanks everyone for all comments and opinions.
    I always like to step back and re-evaluate my design directions.
    Last edited by MiataQuest; 01-17-2021 at 09:31 PM.

  19. #101
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    Recently I have been bringing all my Miata and Ecotec parts back home from work.
    That has allowed me to review the vision of the Manticore a little more.

    I was looking at my Garage Vary rear panel along with the Porter LED lights.
    I decided I have no love for the Porter lights. Every time I look at the Porter lights I think they belong on a trailer and not on a sports car. I know they have some vintage history, but they have no character.



    I am experimenting with these 1960 Ford Thunderbird tail lights with the Porter LED assembly under them. I already like them better than the Porter lights. I can buy these lens new if I ever need to replace them.



    For further experimentation I bought a set of used 1959 Thunderbird tail lights off eBay. These tail lights have a chrome ring at the base and a center back-up light. These would probably require me to make a special bulb holder but I think the look would be very interesting. We will see which one wins over the next two weeks when I receive them.



    For the rear bumper I will be cutting-in this Mustang front vent. The rear white bumper with this black vent should look pretty good. It should be functional as well.

    Last edited by MiataQuest; 02-04-2021 at 04:46 PM.

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    Paul B (02-06-2021)

  21. #102
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Why not sell the porter cab lights and get led halo rings, etc. to complete the setup? Seems it would give you more creative freedom.


    *P.S.- Look into infinity light taillights on YouTube, think you may like them...or not.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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    MiataQuest (02-04-2021)

  23. #103
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    Good idea Greasemonkey2000 !

    I went down the YouTube rabbit hole and liked what I saw. This also helps keep our small and low vehicles visible.
    The installation does not seem very difficult.
    The only issue I heard on YouTube is everyone says the LED Halo lights were "Sick". So I hope I can get a healthy set. 8^)
    After a bit of research I will probably go with Diode Dynamic halos. https://www.diodedynamics.com/hd-led...ings-pair.html
    I really like the quality and performance of the Diode Dynamic bulbs I installed into my TSI.

    So I will probably sell the LED Porter lights to fund a set of Diode Dynamic halo rings.

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    tsingson (02-05-2021)

  25. #104
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
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    It is sad to see “tsingson” liked my post only a couple weeks ago and now he is no longer with us.
    My condolences to his family.

    The 2.4L Ecotec engine had starter cranking problems. Most of the time it would just go “click”.
    On my walk around video it didn’t start, how embarrassing!
    I believe I am getting too much voltage drop and not enough amperage to the Solstice Ecotec starter using the Miata ignition switch.

    I had some GM performance cars back in the 70’s that had cranking problems when the starter got hot. To fix the problem I added a Ford style starter solenoid to act as a “pre-solenoid” to get power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid. In that same theme I will try the same thing to solve my Ecotec cranking problem. It is a GM engine after all

    Step 1 – Find a good source of power.
    Dooh, the battery is in the trunk.
    Ok let’s investigate what power I can find under the hood that has large gauge wires and is always on.
    I noted in the fuse box I have an empty fuse location located on the heavy fuse buss bar. The open fused location is for ABS which I don’t have. The ABS connection is rated to 60 amps.
    Ta da! Not only does it have the power I need but it is also in a convenient location. I will run with that.



    Step 2 - Mount an old Ford 12V starter solenoid as a “pre-solenoid” and attach a heavy gauge wire from the ABS fuse location.
    Add a circuit breaker for extra safety. Then wire the other side of the “pre-solenoid” to the Ecotec starter solenoid.
    At the same time remove the Miata ignition switch wire from the starter solenoid and insulate it.
    Also add an extra heavy duty mil-spec ground strap.



    Step 3 – Prove that the “pre-solenoid” idea will work.
    The guys on the Ecotecmiata Facebook page said the engine will not start because the ECU wants to see a cranking signal otherwise it detects a security issue. I was optimistic because the ECU was re-programmed to eliminate the need to recognize a key fob and it has a mild tune.
    I turned on the ignition key and jumpered the pre-solenoid. The engine immediately cranked and fired up.
    Success!

    Step 4 – Figure out an interior push-button.
    I looked at those “START” buttons that are out there but they were too complicated and did not handle the amps I wanted. I then started thinking about marine push-button switches. I found one that had a rubber boot over the push-button and could fit into the cigarette lighter hole with little effort.
    I ordered and received the marine push-button switch. The marine push-button switch would have worked but it did not look good.
    As I started thinking about other alternatives I thought it might be nice to add some anti-theft features by having a hidden momentary switch. (It will be our secret, right!)

    I was playing with the old cigarette lighter I removed and thought why not turn it into a push-button?
    It seemed feasible, I will run with the idea!

    My cigarette lighter was slightly corroded because it was occasionally used so I decided to order a new one from Moss Miata. At the same time, I found a push-button switch on eBay that I thought would fit. Both arrived about the same time and I determined it could be done.
    Both the cigarette push button (with the guts removed) and the switch push-button have spring action return. I think it will work well and have low risk to stick.
    Using a Dremel bit I opened-up the rear of the cigarette housing until I could install the threaded switch shaft. I had to slip on the new colored ring first before I installed the switch. I adjusted the switch to have a slight gap and tightened it down.





    Step 6 - Add JB Weld to the threads and nuts of the switch so it does not come loose or change the adjustment gap.
    In the picture below the switch threads inside the cigarette lighter are curing. Tomorrow I will flip it over and do the same to the outside threads and nut.



    Step 7 – Solder 14 awg wires to the switch, install, and wire up to the pre-solenoid. I will take power from that circuit breaker next to the pre-solenoid and add a sealed Delphi fuse holder in-line with a 30A fuse. I will get to that in the next few weeks and update everyone with the final results.

    Other projects in the queue:
    • Winkers
    • Halo rings to be mounted into the Thunderbird tail-light lens
    • Test fit the Garage Vary rear panel
    • Paint the Garage Vary rear panel – Crystal white with black center bar
    • Pull off the rear bumper to figure out the best way to install the Mustang facia insert.
    • Try to get the old rear spoiler off the trunk lid.
    • Ecotec cooling system upgrades – re-routing, independent fan system, Flyin Miata V8 radiator
    • Install Flyin Miata V8 sway bar and support bracket to add clearance to the front engine pulley nut.
    • Start working on the A-Spec Type II wing. Yes, absolutely it will have the aluminum visible.
    • Prove out the Ecotec drivetrain – starter, cooling system, sway bar, etc
    • Install the new one piece flywheel and 6-speed Miata transmission.
    • Re-route the oil cooler and oil filter
    • Work on front spoiler and side skirts
    • Add heat shields all over. Brake lines, Air conditioning lines, Fuel lines, Clutch slave cylinder, etc
    • Plus many, many, more!
    Last edited by MiataQuest; 02-28-2021 at 10:56 PM.

  26. #105
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    As far as a push button start, what about the Zoom Engineering option? Completely PnP, no wire splicing.
    https://www.cornsusa.com/product-pag...on-starter-pnp
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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