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Thread: The Long Road Back

  1. #526
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    I asked the question because only one of the coils appeared to be damaged. Rear one looks fine:

    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  2. #527
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Not broke? Don’t fix.

  3. #528
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Not broke? Don’t fix.
    Wasn't sure if it should be treated like brake calipers, for example. Generally if one breaks/goes bad, replace both on the same end.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  4. #529
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    Not true.

  5. #530
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Figured as much, but also figured I'd ask. Electrical components don't have unlimited lifespans, of course. AFAIK, these are the original components with now nearly 20 years' service.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  6. #531
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Understood. That is an impressive life span considering.

    Also, that ROT on the calipers is also not true. Brake pads/rotors, yes.

  7. #532
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Also, that ROT on the calipers is also not true. Brake pads/rotors, yes.
    Funny you should say that. I was wondering why the dealer only replaced my locked driver's rear caliper on the Mazda5 and not both. They did replace both sets of pads and rotors, though.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  8. #533
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    The Long Road Back

    Replace consumables in sets ( pairs / ends etc.) for brakes. When a caliper fails, it generally creates uneven wear. Best practice is to replace the broken caliper but also the pads, rotor, hardware on that end (F or R) so performance is even.

  9. #534
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    OEM coils are $105 shipped apiece. NGK unit from Rock Auto is $37 apiece. If you were me, what'd you do?
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  10. #535
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    I went ahead and bought the NGK's. I'll keep the old ones as spares. Maybe put some epoxy or something on the cracked one. Keep 'em in the trunk.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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    kung fu jesus (05-04-2021)

  12. #536
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    The Long Road Back

    NGK FTW. OE manufacturers are always the safe bet. NGK, Delphi, Denso, etc.

    I also keep known working electronic spares. Sensors, relays, I keep in a compact tool kit in the trunk.

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    HarryB (05-05-2021)

  14. #537
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Did plugs, wires, and air filter today with the little dude. Glad I bought wires and new ignition coils, too, but more on that later.

    Since we were trying to squeeze in the job in the 45min or so I had to spare on Mother's Day, I opted to not do the valve cover gasket or extract the broken bolt holding the forward coil in place. Shame on me, but it'll have to wait. I probably should've replaced the PCV valve as well, but that can be done on a different day.

    Anyway, here's what I bought:

    WIX Air Filter
    NGK Blue Wires
    NGK FR5BHK Ruthenium Plugs
    NGK U4013 Ignition Coils

    Glad I bought both the wires and coils because that crack in the forward coil turned out to be a bit more...terminal (see what I did there?) than I thought.

    20210509_151959 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20210509_152002 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

    Try as I might, that part of the coil that was still attached to the plug wire was not coming out. Oh well. At least the other coil and wire were good, so in the Spares box they go.

    20210509_152012 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

    New and Old plugs. Top to bottom is Cylinder 1, 2, etc. To be honest, I don't remember when I replaced these (I am pretty sure they haven't been in there since 2008 when I bought the car and snapped the coil bolt, buuuuuuuuuut...sigh).

    20210509_144704 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20210509_144822 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20210509_145101 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

    Comparing #3 to #4, it's interesting how much cleaner the #4 plug looked. Also there was a lot more electrode material left on it (relatively):

    20210509_145106 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20210509_145238 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

    Got a pic of the little dude while he was getting the plugs out and finger tightening them back in:

    20210509_144642 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20210509_150125 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr

    I ended up having to zip-tie the OEM harness to the coil because it wouldn't click in place on the forward coil. Not sure why. Clicked in place just fine on the rear one.

    Started up the car and butt/ear dyno says it sounds smoother, which aside from long replacement time for the plugs is really all I wanted. It was good to have the little guy out to work with me on the car!
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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    HarryB (05-10-2021),kung fu jesus (05-09-2021)

  16. #538
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    Which cylinder # was the damaged coil on?

    PVC test, shoot some brake clean through it, shake it along its axis. It it rattles its good. Blow and suck on the end to see if the valve closes. It’s basically a check valve.

  17. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Which cylinder # was the damaged coil on?
    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    PCV test, shoot some brake clean through it, shake it along its axis. It it rattles its good. Blow and suck on the end to see if the valve closes. It’s basically a check valve.
    Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  18. #540
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    The Long Road Back

    Plugs all look decent except #2, which is why I asked about the damaged coil. Looks like it wasn’t firing as well as the rest.

    Also, a little dielectric grease in the wire boots and on the tops of the plugs can help prevent them from sticking together over time.

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