The Long Road Back

[—Bryan—]

But I am with KFJ as it regards steering/braking components.

I add that to the clutch they let run dry which would've burned out its throw-out bearing in a year or two even if they'd have filled it. More importantly, I'd add it to the throttle linkage they pinched (because WHY ON GOD'S GREEN EARTH WOULD I HAVE ANY REASON TO TOUCH THE STUPID THING?! Only someone removing the entire engine--like, I don't know...to reseal the oil pan--would need to undo the throttle cable). Both the steering and throttle could've been fatal either to the car or, more importantly, for me.

At this point, it's more depressing than infuriating. Can't trust anyone, it seems.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Make me an offer on my car. ;)

Ditto what Harry said. If it’s dry, don’t touch it. The pan seal is just grey RTV and two saddle seals on the ends for the crank.

[—Bryan—]

Make me an offer on my car. ;)

God, no. That car is too nice for me to ruin it. It's nice watching someone treat a car as nicely as you do (and still drive it, too). I wish I had that much time, skill, and expertise to throw at mine.

Ditto what Harry said. If it’s dry, don’t touch it. The pan seal is just grey RTV and two saddle seals on the ends for the crank.

I have cardboard under the car that's brand new and I haven't seen so much as a speck on it. I haven't actually gone under the car to look. At this point, though, I don't think finding out things are messed up by checking the bolts would make me feel any better.

[—Bryan—]

The Tick's windblocker has been part of the picture for over a decade: this was the picture I submitted way back for the 2011-2012 ClubRoadster calendar!



I can count on my fingers the number of times this thing has come off the car, and the years took their toll:



I started the process of taking the old one off and of course because a freaking idiot, managed to shear a bolt head...had to twist the thing out one turn at a time with a pair of pliers.

This is why I HATE working on my car.



The new windblocker in its ancestral home:



For those who are curious, the rollbar pretty much forces the windblocker into this position:

[—Bryan—]

Took in one of the local Cars and Coffee events today with the boy. Got one good shot of the car.



More stuff here

[—Bryan—]

Got the little guy to help me change the oil in The Tick today. The shop had the filter (whose brand I didn't recognize...first time I ever remember the filter o-ring coming off of the filter when it came off the car...) on so tight that I finally had to use a pair of oil filter pliers to wrench it loose. That said, there didn't appear to be any leaks and the drain plug didn't appear to have damaged threads, so I guess it's all good.

One thing I did notice that I was a little concerned about: the forward ignition coil has a crack in it.



13 years ago when I brought the car home, I changed the plugs and managed to shear off one of the two bolts that holds the coil in.



What do you think? Should I be concerned? I'm planning to change plugs again soon.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Just as an assessment of your preferences, it would not hurt to look into replacing the coil (new) and the valve cover (used).

The coils see a lot of heat stress, so nip it in the bud before it becomes a bigger issue.

You could sell the current one or use it as a core exchange on a powdercoated one.

[—Bryan—]

I was afraid you'd say that. I'm a little leery about taking the whole cover off.

[— kung fu jesus —]

You can try extracting that broken stud, but it would be a LOT easier doing that on a table or bench than leaning over the car.

You will probably stress and stew over the cracked coil and mounting boss, so put you mind at ease, look at how the removal process goes for the VC and tackle it head on.

[— Agent☣Orange —]

Don't do it, man. The cover is under pressure and will explode in your face.

[HarryB]

To be honest, it is a tad harder on VVT engines due to the VVT oil feed (needs some additional attention when putting it back on), but given the jobs you have already tackled it should be a walk in the park. Let me know if you need the service manual for it (or download it from mellens if the website is live).

[—Bryan—]

To be honest, it is a tad harder on VVT engines due to the VVT oil feed (needs some additional attention when putting it back on), but given the jobs you have already tackled it should be a walk in the park. Let me know if you need the service manual for it (or download it from mellens if the website is live).

Mellens site is down (has been for a while, sadly) and even going through the Wayback Machine, a lot of the PDF's are corrupted

That VVT oil feed is precisely why I am itchy about taking the cover off. I know of someone who still to this day has VVT issues because of taking it off.

[—Bryan—]

Important question: replace one coil or two?

[— kung fu jesus —]

I may have them all stored on my computer at home. I will look this evening. Check YouTube

[— kung fu jesus —]

Many VVT systems are connected by banjo fittings, like the brake calipers. Be thoughtful lifting it up, don’t lose the copper washers.

Replace the VC gasket and the damaged coil(s).