I did a thing.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Yeah, my old race seat put me so much lower in the NA, it felt like a different car.

So, the removal of the shovel or blister on the bottom of the OE seats would be useful if one were considering lowering the rear humps on the rear mounting points. The shovel is what stops the seat from moving back any further when it contacts the floor. I would think similarly if someone were to remove the front mounts to achieve a flat floor that having a flat-bottom OE seat would also give you more adjustment for modification. It's a viable solution to working/modifying OE stuff to achieve a lower seating position, that's all.

[—Bryan—]

So, the removal of the shovel or blister on the bottom of the OE seats would be useful if one were considering lowering the rear humps on the rear mounting points. The shovel is what stops the seat from moving back any further when it contacts the floor. I would think similarly if someone were to remove the front mounts to achieve a flat floor that having a flat-bottom OE seat would also give you more adjustment for modification. It's a viable solution to working/modifying OE stuff to achieve a lower seating position, that's all.

That makes sense.

[— kung fu jesus —]

I finally got around to buying and installing a pair of MSM NB2 door cards. It is a fairly involved install, if you aren't familiar with how the windows and doors are assembled, it could be a bear.

I did mine, about 2 hour/side. I installed NB2 latching mechanisms to use the cable latches rather than straighten the NB1 rod-style latches. Added benefit here, it helped my driver door close tighter and eliminate a rather loud and annoying air leak (the original one was just worn out.).

Old & busted
IMG_1944.jpg

The new hotness
IMG_1942.jpg

Here's the difference between the NB1 and NB2 interior door latches.
IMG_1939.jpg
IMG_1941.jpg
note the extension on this NB2 latch to capture the cables (to the right).
IMG_1940.jpg

The cables fit the NB1 door like stock. The linages for the exterior door handle, exterior door lock, and the three panhead phillips screws the secure the latching mech to the door are PnP, easy as pie, just like the one it replaced. I started with the passenger door so I could still use the car if something stopped me.

The power door lock switch on the NB2 card doesn't plug into the NB1 harness, also the wiring for the power locks on the driver side isn't the same as the NB1 but the connectors are the same. There is a missing wire. I think I know how to wire these up to make it all work correctly, I just need to look at some wiring diagrams. It doesn't look that complicated.

There was also some minor trimming to get the new interior latch mounted correctly and not have the door interfere with the handle and lock.
IMG_1956.jpg

A little more trimming and fitting
IMG_1957.jpg

IMG_1958.jpg

And after placing the final mounting points for the panels, it all came out very nice!

IMG_1925.jpg

IMG_1963.jpg

[—tsingson—]

Nice job. That turned out real nice. I was thinking of giving this a go but I found a passenger door card from Jason for $40 and decided to just stay with the NB1 stuff.

[— kung fu jesus —]

And a few more:

IMG_1926.jpg

IMG_1962.jpg

IMG_1927.jpg

IMG_1964.jpg
(yes, I changed the airbag, too)

I figure these are about 90-95% done. I will go back and figure out the powerlock button, maybe tidy up a few things, but I'm happy how it turned out!

[—Bryan—]

What are the two big foam sections here?

https://mazdaroadster.net/attachment...5&d=1582574991

[— kung fu jesus —]

insulation on the vapor barrier.

[—Bryan—]

insulation on the vapor barrier.

Weird...my car never had them.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Nb1 stuff, probably.

[mx54life]

How hard is the door panel removal Steven. I need to open my driver side when I get him back on the road as when i close the door with the window all the way down.....I would heard a loose shaking noise.......none existing on the passenger side.

[BRGNA8]

i love this car so much

[HarryB]

How hard is the door panel removal Steven. I need to open my driver side when I get him back on the road as when i close the door with the window all the way down.....I would heard a loose shaking noise.......none existing on the passenger side.

Easy peasy. 2 screws on the large door handle, a tiny one on the door latch "cup", then a couple of push-in plastic rivets on the rear edge of the door card. Grab the bottom of the card, give it a good thud, and it's out.

[—Bryan—]

Nb1 stuff, probably.

Who knows? My vapor barrier had been hacked up a long time ago when the OO installed component speakers and crossovers (which have since been removed)

[— kung fu jesus —]

Easy peasy. 2 screws on the large door handle, a tiny one on the door latch "cup", then a couple of push-in plastic rivets on the rear edge of the door card. Grab the bottom of the card, give it a good thud, and it's out.

^ All this plus one plastic push pin rivet near the tweeter (visible). The card hooks into the top of the door frame, so lift it up a little after pulling the bottom out.

The tweeter speaker is short, have a small flat screwdriver handy to release the white plastic electric connector.

The NB1 had a third screw in the large door handle, in the pull “cup” under a little piece of carpet.

If there are broken panel connectors, I found close replacements at the local auto parts store on the little “help” display where they stock packages of random interior clips and pieces.

[— Agent☣Orange —]

I noticed at the junkyard that there were a few Mazda, chrome interior door handles that were Miata compatible.