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Thread: Chris' Nissan Micra K11 v3

  1. #31
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! hoodedreeper's Avatar
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    Agent☣Orange (12-30-2020)

  3. #32
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! hoodedreeper's Avatar
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  5. #33
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    This is by far the coolest Micra I have ever seen

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    Agent☣Orange (12-30-2020),hoodedreeper (12-23-2020)

  7. #34
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! hoodedreeper's Avatar
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    '92 Purple Supercharged
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    I purchased an eBay short shifter a few months ago but was waiting for the exhaust to be changed to do so. While the Gizfab 4-2-1 Manifold was being fitted I also installed this along with a new stock middle section.







    Installation was straight forward with the help from Leadfoot's video on youtube. Although the washers provided weren't enough I had to purchase some thicker ones.







    If anyone reading this is planning on fitting one, make sure you thread lock the bolts to prevent them coming loose.



    Its made such a difference with the driving experience, it was certainly worth the £44 and half an hour on a ramp .







    Another eBay purchase was this badge, couldnt help myself lol











    A friend contacted me asking if I'd be interested in some wheels that he had on his Reliant Scimitar SS1. At first glance they looked like Wanatabe, but upon closer inspection they're stamped Enkei on the back, in a 14x6j ET38 fitment.







    I just need to find some centre caps which seem tricky to find. The bore is 63mm but I'd like taller caps like on the Minilite wheels



    Tyre size is more baloon-y with the side wall slightly taller being a 185/60r14. These will do for now and still suit the car IMO











    After weeks and weeks of searching, I FINALLY have a 1.4 manual transmission ECU,key and receiver. The car has been running on the 1.0 ECU which has been fine for 90% of the time. It would occasionally be lumpy or hold back (like a minor misfire) when pulling away.

    With the car hoping to see a track day next year, I felt I needed the correct ECU to make sure the fuel/ignition is correct. I know the Bosch ECUs will self learn to an extent, but its for peace of mind



    I was very very close to sending the 1.0 ECU to Tornado Systems to have their chip installed, it may be a path I'd consider down the line but for now I'm happy with how the car is running.







    I'd like to get it on a Dyno at some point to see how many ponies have escaped over the years

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    Agent☣Orange (12-30-2020),HarryB (12-30-2020),MaRcOp01o (12-30-2020),MiataQuest (12-30-2020)

  9. #35
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! hoodedreeper's Avatar
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    '92 Purple Supercharged
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    There comes a stage with every car build I have where the car is looking really good (perhaps perfect in some eyes) and nothing needs to be changed or altered. Then I get an idea in my head, become determined to carry out said idea(s) thus ruining the car completely. Sometimes it works in my favour and it works and looks good, other times not so much and I live with regret until I do something about it.

    For example, I admit the Purple MX5 looked its ABSOLUTE best when the wide arches,garage vary taillights, mazdaspeed bumper and Work Meister S1s were installed. It was simple, stylish and looked stunning. Then I got bored and decided to do the aero and chassis mount wing (cue the idea in my head)

    Anyway.... its now got to that stage with the Micra build



    I decided to fit a prefacelift front end haha





    Lets rewind to the fitting process

    With all of the facelift panels removed, I started with fitting the bonnet (hood) along with the front wings (fenders). With these in place the headlamps bolt in and you'll always have great fitment around the edge of the headlamp.



    I couldnt resist a comparison photo between the two



    Removal of the original wings was straight forward until it got to the bottom where it bolts to the sills. Both sides had suffered severe corrosion and there was no chance of removing them with a socket. With the help from the angle grinder I cut the wing off leaving the flat piece with the bolts still on the car. A little while later I got the bolts off and was left with two holes ready for the new wing to be bolted on.

    To fit the bumper the front mount block box things needed trimming on the outer edges

    The prefacelift bonnet catch was fitted and the aerocatches removed for the time being (unsure whether to refit them or not)

    Next job was the headlamp wiring. The facelift units have seperate bulb holders for the indicator and sidelight. Where as the prefacelift uses a single plug to feed power to both lights.



    I used some waterproof plugs we sell at work to make an adapter loom





    I also copied the same wiring to the facelift lights so they're both interchangable (not that I plan on swapping back, but you never know)

    The side repeater wiring needed swapping too which is just 2 wires each.

    And there we have it, a front end swap This isn't the final form, theres more to come

  10. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to hoodedreeper For This Useful Post:

    Agent☣Orange (01-12-2021),CollinMB (01-12-2021),MaRcOp01o (01-11-2021)

  11. #36
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lucmor444's Avatar
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    That is a better looking front end.

  12. #37
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! CollinMB's Avatar
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    2016 Ceramic Metallic ND
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucmor444 View Post
    That is a better looking front end.
    Agreed

  13. #38
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MaRcOp01o's Avatar
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    1991 BRG, 1993 EUNOS, 2018 HONDA FIT
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    Quote Originally Posted by CollinMB View Post
    Agreed
    same here

  14. #39
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! hoodedreeper's Avatar
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    '92 Purple Supercharged
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    United Kingdom
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    With the hope of attending a couple of track days this year, I wanted to help prepare the car abit better.

    The first add on were some aftermarket gauges. A friend had 2 sets of 3 gauges for sale, 60mm Pro Plus with smoked lenses and 52mm Motor Meter Racing with white faces. I originally went with the 60mm purley because they're larger and easier to see.



    I didn't get off to a great start, first I snapped a sensor in the sump plug adapter so ordered a replacement from eBay. That arrived so I installed the inline radiator hose as it was easier to access than the two oil sensors. The gauge would power up but wouldn't show any reading. I tried wiring it differently, nope still nothing. I swapped the eBay sensor with the other sensor supplied and it worked. I'm guessing the replacement has a different ohmn rating and/or the scaling is different.

    I turned my attention to the oil temp and pressure gauges. With the oil drained and the filter and OE pressure switch removed it was time to fit the T piece. Access was limited and I could only turn the spanner a 1/4 turn, flip the spanner around and do another 1/4 turn, it felt like forever. My hands were cramping up because of the cold and I was getting fed up of it not tightening. I checked the T piece and it had slight side to side movement....oh no!

    I removed the T piece to be greeted with some aluminium on the threads....crap!







    I knew I had damaged the thread on the block and fixing it was going to be a real headache. Knowing it would leak with oil on the first start up I refitted the pressure sensor and fitted the sump adaptor instead.



    Got the temp sensor fitted and wired in, filled the engine with oil and crossed my fingers a puddle of oil wouldn't appear as soon as I turned the key. RESULT! No leaks! After letting the car idle for some time the gauge hadn't moved at all. I understand the sump will read a cooler reading, but surely the needle would move at least a millimeter?!


    The next day I put the car on the ramp at work and cleaned up the earthing point, hoping it was a bad contact, and it was. Hurray!

    My friend dropped off a replacement sensor he had ordered online along with the 52mm gauges. This time I tested it externally with a cup of boiling water and the 52mm gauges connected to the car battery. I then did the same to test the new sensor with the 60mm gauge to make sure that read fine too







    Now it was a decision of which gauges to use. The 60mm were already wired in, but the wiring was messy because each gauge needed to be wired indivually. I used a 6 way fuse box which also allowed me to have all of the earths share the same point. The quality of the 60mms seemed cheap and I couldnt find any info online about them.



    The 52mm felt heavier in weight, looked and felt better quality too. One thing I liked about them, was you can daisy chain link them meaning you only need to wire in the positive and negative once.



    I decided to pull all of the existing wiring out and fit the 52mm gauges (minus the oil pressure gauge)























    Who knew fitting gauges would become such a head ache haha. At least thats all sorted now

  15. #40
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! hoodedreeper's Avatar
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    '92 Purple Supercharged
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    A throwback to when I fitted the side skirts, I discovered the N/S/R sill was rather soft, having poked a 50p size hole when finding a solid area to mount the side skirt. I also had the O/S front and rear jacking points cave in on me, not ideal! So it was time to sort the sills out.



    My friend Kevin who helped me remove and refit the engine offered to weld the sills for me. So today (Sunday 21st Feb) we went over a unit he has access to to start the work.



    After some poking and scraping with the flat head screw driver we were left with this











    The jack had slipped on the N/S/F sill when I was doing the driveshafts during the engine swap so this was the most challenging part of the day. Unfortunately no photos of the damage.

    The O/S/F jacking point lip had just folded up but was still solid overall.



    With the N/S/R sill opened up you could see the corrosion had really set in











    You'll be pleased to read I've finally got an arch repair panel on its way, unfortuantely Kev isn't confident doing bodywork welding so I'll need to go else where to have that done.







    With the plates welded in, treated,primed and undersealed its looking much better.



























    Its not the prettiest of repairs but its strong and looks much much better than it did before.



    We put the front end back on, unfortunately the N/S/F sill which caved in still isn't a great fitment with the wing (abit better than before though) so I'll have to worry about that later

  16. #41
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! hoodedreeper's Avatar
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    '92 Purple Supercharged
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    Back in October I bought some Almera N15 1.6 calipers. These are a single piston caliper with 252mm vented discs,compared to the K11 single piston caliper with 234mm solid discs



    With the brakes stripped off I wire brushed the hubs and shock absorber body down ready for a lick of paint. I also replaced the lower suspension arms as the ball joint dust covers had started to split and the bushes had seen better days.

    I was going to go with Mtec dimpled/grooved discs and their pads but went for a cheaper option for now.
    I managed to get a pair of Pagid discs from Euro Car Parts for £14.28. Along with some Blueprint brake pads for £20.00 that I got from my work.

    The current pads didnt have a huge amount of material left and the discs had a lip too (yes i know i could have gotten many more miles out of these)





    I also purchased a pair of new hoses but I couldnt crack off the brake pipe union, so I'll leave those for another day.

    Believe it or not I have never bled brakes before so it was a great time to learn. Much easier than I thought, dont know why I had put it off for so long!

    With everything bolted up it was time for a test drive. Instantly I heard a rotational scraping noise.



    Turns out the pad retaining clip was catching the end of the disc





    Nothing the angle grinder couldnt sort



    Got everything back together, took it for a test drive and no more noise



    (These were before the test drive, the discs were cleaned once assembly was completed)



    Next job for the front is to remove the arch liners, clean and underseal the arches to finish it off

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