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Thread: 2000 Special Edition #2441

  1. #16
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefmg View Post
    In the picture of your prop rod, I see you are missing the rubber grommet for the top locating post on your radiator. NBs have four of them (two each top and bottom). Probably whoever replaced the radiator didn't move them over from the old one. I would recommend seeing how many (if any) you have and ordering what you need to.
    Yeah, I noticed that a while back. It bugs me, but I plan on ordering a new set of 4 in the near future alongside some other OEM replacement parts.

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  3. #17
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    August 5th, 2020

    So as I have been going through the car trying to sort all the miscellaneous issues, this has been my biggest concern for the past few months: One of the pulleys was missing on my supercharger tensioner and the belt was just riding on what looked like the bearings of the old tensioner.



    Normally I would have just ordered another pulley and been a happy camper but when I looked into how difficult the original tensioner can be to adjust, I decided to get the Track Dog Racing tensioner for my M45. With the original tensioner from Jackson Racing, you have to essentially loosen the entire power steering pump and pivot it just to adjust the belt. Mind you, these style belts usually stretch to their full length in three different stages after first installing it. On the flip side, the TDR tensioner is one piece instead of two, and all you have to do to adjust the tensioner is loosen a 12mm lock nut, adjust the tensioner bolt, and tighten the lock nut.

    The only issue is that in the midst of COVID-19 TDR has been back-ordered on the part for the past few months. Thankfully after a couple of months of patiently waiting, it has arrived. I was impressed with how robust the piece was when I received it. Included were a set of instructions which was much appreciated.



    Removing the old tensioner was pretty straight forward. Here you can see the real difference between the two parts when side by side. Now to put in the shiny new part!





    The instructions mentioned that you may be able to get the tensioner in without removing the power steering line that goes on the top of the pump but I tried for a while and it was just too big to get into position, even when loosening the line and rotating it. My advice to anyone is to remove the line, fit the tensioner in where it needs to go, and tighten the line back down all the way. I made the mistake of leaving it hand tight and it slowly leaked fluid while I was finishing the install without me knowing. The tensioner went in nice and easy after pivoting the power steering assembly just a tad to get all the holes to line up.



    TDR advises that you check for alignment horizontally with the valve cover and vertically with the rest of the pulleys. The reason being is that over time the constant downward force on the supercharger can alter the alignment of the supercharger. As you can see, my horizontal alignment was WAY off. I am thoroughly surprised that my car was able to operate like this and keep the belt on. Added two shims between the front supercharger mounting bracket to straighten it out. All I did was cut slots in some washers to slip over the bolt holding the bracket in place, that way removing the supercharger was not necessary.





    My vertical alignment was a bit more of an... adventure I guess you could say. Every time I started the car the belt would slip over the back edge of my supercharger pulley, indicating that the supercharger was too far forward. No big deal... just move the supercharger back a tad. I loosened every bolt holding the supercharger to the bracket and pushed it as far back as it could go but it barely moved. Definitely not enough to fix the issue, not by a long shot. Stumped, I decided to call it a night and come back to it after doing more research on what my options are to fix it.



    After asking on various pages on Facebook dedicated to supercharged Miatas, speaking with numerous people, I had no real viable answers besides notching the bracket to allow for movement. This was my last resort because I really did not want to cut into my bracket and possibly damage the structural integrity of it. As a last attempt, I called TDR. I spoke with one of the top people there by the name of Gary. He gave me a golden nugget of information. He told me that the supercharger pulley is offset and can be flipped to be able to achieve a belt alignment that is closer to the supercharger.

    I pulled the pulley off with a pulley puller, as one does. I noticed this random build-up of metal on the inside of the pulley. I have no clue if this is normal or not but I ground it down with my Dremel tool and the pulley slipped back onto the nose of the supercharger perfectly. There was minimal clearance but the belt alignment was perfect.













    Oh, and for those wondering, the smallest belt I could fit onto my car was a Gates Micro-V K040500.

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  5. #18
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    August 26th, 2020

    At times while shifting gears my Nardi shift knob makes a terrible screeching noise. I found out after closer inspection that the outer wood layer of the knob was rotating on the stationary chrome base, causing the noise. The base of the shift knob will stay still at times, causing the noise, and other times it will rotate with the rest of the shift knob. Either way, the knob needs some attention. Here is a video of the problem:



    It doesn’t matter how much I tighten down the shift knob, the outer layer of wood will always be loose enough to rotate. This problem occurs because of overtightening the shift knob and also adhesive failure over time due to age or heat. As much as I would have loved to just buy a new shift knob, they are discontinued, and when they come up for sale used, 9/10 they are in worse physical condition than mine. The shift pattern is all intact on mine still, which is common to fade/rub off, and the wood is in great shape. So I figured I would try my hand at restoring this one. I reached out to a few of my friends and eventually was referred to a gentleman by the name of Bill. Bill provided me with the following picture to educate me on the structure of the knob as well as some guidance on how to remove the outer shell.



    The knob consists of two main components: The outer layer of wood that you see and the base/core of the knob. The base of the knob is only partially exposed at the very bottom of the knob when fully assembled. There is a plastic sleeve on the inside of the metal base/core of the knob that has the threads you use to attach your shift knob to your car. Most times the wood separates from the metal core rather than the plastic sleeve separating from the metal core, but it is a possibility I suppose. The main goal is to take the wood sleeve off the metal core, clean the mating surfaces, and adhere with some fresh adhesive. Let me tell you... easier said than done because the ribs on the outside of the metal core make it very difficult to remove the two pieces.

    Here is what you need to do to remove the outer wood shell from the base/core:
    Buy a long M10x1.25 bolt
    Bench vise
    WD-40
    Degreaser
    Isopropyl alcohol
    Clear Gorilla Glue (non-expanding)
    Rubberized gloves (optional)

    The first step is to remove your shift knob from the car and thread your long bolt from the hardware store into your shift knob. You are going to want an M10x1.25 bolt that is at least 100mm in length. Once you have the bolt securely threaded into your shift knob, clamp the bolt head into your bench vise. Here is the lovely simple part… pull, pull, pull! This is one of those “It's a marathon, not a sprint” situations because the shift knob is most likely going to take a lot of effort to properly separate from the base. What I did was take turns with my buddy and I while we hung out in the garage. Whatever you do, do NOT try and use any type of pry tool to remove the shift knob. The wood is soft and you will end up just denting/gouging the wood rather than removing it off the base. The hardest part is getting the initial gap started but once you start to get the wood to move, you can add a little bit of WD-40 into the gap to help. Be careful not to add too much or else the wood knob will become too slippery.









    Eventually, you will end up with the two pieces successfully separated (I believe in you) and now it's time to clean them up and put them back together for good. I began by cleaning all the WD-40 from the surfaces with some degreaser. Then I lightly scuffed the inside of the wood sleeve with some 400 grit sandpaper to remove any of the old adhesive that was loosely attached (don't worry about removing all the old adhesive, some of that stuff is really stuck on there and it’s not worth it).





    Next, I hit the mating surfaces with some isopropyl alcohol. Now all the prep work was done. The last thing before putting them together was threading the core of the shift knob onto the car and mark the rear-facing center point so I knew which orientation to put the wood sleeve back on. That way when the shift knob was tightened all the way, it was nice and aligned. Once I had the core marked, I took it out of the car and back to the workbench. Finally, I applied a thin laying of the clear, non-expansive gorilla to the side of the wood sleeve and the outside of the core. I left the shift knob rest for 2 days while the glue cured fully before installing it into the car.





    And there you have it, good as new

    If anyone has any tips or tricks when it comes to keeping my shift knob in good condition I would love to hear it. Any polishes or techniques are greatly appreciated. The last thing I want is for the numbers to rub off on the shift pattern so I'm thinking about getting it wrapped in some clear vinyl, having it clear coated, or using some type of protective coating.

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  7. #19
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Nice write up, Evan! I wonder if you could use a automotive ceramic coat on it? Don't see why not but you would be wise to do some research before trying.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
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  9. #20
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    2000 Special Edition #2441

    Poly clearcoat with a UV inhibitor. It would have better to do that while the knob was off the sleeve.

    Don’t wear jewelry on your shift hand.

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  11. #21
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    September 11th, 2020

    I was driving about 4 miles away from my house, just having fun boosting around and suddenly I got a FLASHING check engine light. Never seen or heard of such a thing. I turned around and went straight home. A quick Google search was telling me that my car is running so rich that my catalytic converter is in danger of melting. I am not so sure if that is the case or not given the fact that I am supercharged on stock ECU with piggyback fuel and timing controls. So I got to work diagnosing the issue.

    Check engine codes:

    P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
    P0300 Random Misfire
    P0172 Fuel System Too Rich (Bank 1)

    Troubleshooting:

    Crank sensor gap Good, within spec of 0.5mm-1.5mm (approx. thickness of a standard credit card)
    Spark plugs Good
    Hose clamps Good, all tight and accounted for
    Major vacuum leaks None found.
    For this I sprayed brake clean around the connections on the intake system listening for a change in RPM
    Changed spark plug wires No difference in behavior.
    Used a spare set in known good condition
    Test spark Strong.
    I used an inline spark tester with a spark plug in the end next to the valve cover with about ¼”-1” gap to test the strength of the spark.
    Check set idle (jump 10&GND) Correct at ~950rpm
    Clear CEL/Fault codes Cleared
    Test The car drives good until going into boost, CEL came back P0300 running rich (not flashing) and the car misfires even with 20% long term fuel trim according to the OBDII scanner
    Unplug the O2 sensor The car runs fine, no misfire at all.
    This leads me to believe that the car is actually running lean with the 20% fuel trim pulling out too much fuel. These are the times I wish I had an AFR gauge in my car.
    Test spark Still strong
    Swap back to original spark plug wires NGKs
    Change coil pack I used a spare OEM one I had, known working condition. I did this just to make sure there was no random shorting or overheating in my original coil pack.
    Plug in O2 sensor Allow the car to run in closed loop again and make fuel adjustments based on the MAF readings
    Clean MAF Using specific MAF cleaner
    Clear CEL/Fault codes Cleared
    Test drive 20+ mins driving no CEL. I was able to go into boost without triggering a check engine light to turn on
    Swap back original coil pack No change in driving behavior, still seems good

    So as far as I can tell from a process of elimination, it seems like the MAF needing to be cleaned was the issue. It was possible that the MAF was giving inaccurate readings causing the car to pull too much fuel out and result in a misfire.

    In the following weeks, the misfire seemed to come back. After cleaning the MAF every time the issue resurfaced, it went away. I ended up replacing the MAF with a used unit I got from a friend. This seemed to do the trick and the car is not experiencing any misfires or CELs once entering boost.

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  13. #22
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    That was a very elaborate and thorough process, and the fact that you found/fixed the issue speaks for itself! Well done!

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  15. #23
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MaRcOp01o's Avatar
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    I was there that day
    Follow the Builds
    1993 Eunos Roadster B-spec by Mazdaspeed
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....819#post222819
    1993 Mazda Miata LE
    https://mazdaroadster.net/showthread...233#post244233

  16. #24
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaRcOp01o View Post
    I was there that day
    The terror on our faces and the silence in the air will never be forgotten when the check engine light started flashing

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  18. #25
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    November 3rd, 2020

    New idle issue, surprise. The car has a high idle upon start around 1500rpm. Once the car is warm it seems to run rich and misfires really bad while driving and at idle. I noticed with colder weather or rain the idle will be around 1000rpm, but the car will still misfire. These conditions are heavily pointing towards a vacuum/boost leak somewhere.

    Troubleshooting:

    Replaced all hose camps pre-intake manifold No change.
    I used a set of Gates 32344 silicone hose clamps (x10). They are smooth on the inner circumference so they don’t extrude the couplers/hoses you use them on.
    Remove dummy throttle body and clean IACV Clean and confirmed as working
    Inspect EGR valve gasket Good, reused the existing OEM gasket

    Now it was time: Boost Leak Test

    The first step to an at-home or DIY boost leak test is to block off the motor from the air intake track. To do this I basically had to block off the 2 ports for the valve cover and the air intake. I put a random bolt in the PCV valve hose on the end that slips onto the intake manifold. I did the same thing for my PCV breather hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake elbow before my throttle body (which is before the supercharger on my set up). I put a random bolt and hose clamp on the end of the hose that would slip onto the valve cover. For the air intake, I just swapped my air filter for a 3 inch plastic PVC end cap. I volunteered a friend to spray soapy water around all the connections where there may be a potential boost leak, while I hooked a spare piece of hose to the intake manifold and blew into it to generate some pressure. This method is limited in the fact that you can only generate about 1-2psi with your mouth but it’s a pretty efficient way to track down a leak.







    Two leaks were found, one from the coupler for the supercharger/crossover tube and the rear hose connection for the check valve. The check valve was easy. The hose clamp just needed to be tightened a hair more. The main leak was from the crossover tube. The connection seemed snug but what I found is that leaving no gap in between the two surfaces inside the coupler helped mitigate the leak a lot. Moving the hose clamp higher up to sit closer on the bead rolled edge of the crossover tube helped as well. Despite both those adjustments the crossover tube was still leaking a fair amount so I removed it and inspected it for any damages or imperfections causing the leak. What I discovered was that the remainder of the leak may be caused by the raised casting marks on the plastic crossover tube, which is not allowing for the coupler to seal properly. The easiest solution to this I found was to carefully sand the casting mark down with some 60 grit sandpaper. Sure enough, sanding the crossover tube stopped the leak completely.





    The boost leak test was a success and the car drove loads better. While I was out driving the car I connected an OBD2 scanner to the car and checked on a few of the metrics of the car. The coolant temperature was right around 200°F. Intake air temperatures were good but when going into boost it spikes down to -40°F. I am unsure if this is something that is done on purpose by the Jackson Racing piggyback ECU or if this is a faulty IAT sensor… I am not too worried about it at the moment but I will keep this on my list of items to look into.

    Now that the car was free of any major boost leaks, I decided to check what the base idle was at by jumping TEN and GRD. It skyrocketed but to 1500rpm right away, oh boy. I closed the idle air adjustment screw until the idle was at about 950rpm. Pro-tip: use the rpm readings from an OBD2 scanner, or a standalone ECU if you have one because that is more accurate than the gauge cluster. I reference the Jackson Racing Supercharger install instructions on idle adjustment and after setting the base idle which suggest turning your brights on, heater at full blast, and then rev the engine to 2500rpm and observe the idle droop when letting off. It should not really dip below 900rpm, if so open the idle adjustment screw 1/8th of a turn at a time (counter-clockwise). I also marked my tiny screwdriver with a paint marker with lines every quarter turn to help keep track of my adjustments with the idle air screw. I despise messing with this damn screw. After numerous back and forth I’m still trying to figure out a good position for it because my car still wants to die when returning to idle for the first few minutes of driving when coming to a stop. Even though I set it to 950rpm while jumping TEN and GRD, once I take the jumper out the car idles between 850-800rpm when the car is warmed up. With AC on it jumps to 950-1000, which seems correct. A bit more fine-tuning and I’m sure I will find a happy medium soon enough.

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  20. #26
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    November 8th, 2020

    Now with the majority of the hiccups figured out, I am starting the process of changing out all the fluids in the car. There are no recent service records of the fluid changes because one of the PO was also an at-home mechanic. He never really made much notation of the mileage that they were done at, he just did them on a frequent routine basis. I would just like to have the peace of mind that they are all done at a certain mileage.

    Today I am focusing on the clutch hydraulic system. I sourced a clutch hydraulic refresh from 5X Racing, which includes the following: Exedy clutch master cylinder, Exedy clutch slave cylinder, and a 5X Racing stainless steel braided clutch line (firewall to slave). A Russel 639570 speed bleeder for clutch slave cylinder purchased through Amazon. And some good ol’ DOT 4 brake fluid.



    Install was very routine as this was not my first time doing this job on a Miata. It was, however, my first time adding a speed bleeder into the mix, and let me tell you… it is well well well worth the money. It makes flushing and bleeding the clutch an extremely easy one-person job that can be done in 5 minutes. For those of you who don’t know the speed bleeder has a check valve that prevents air from entering the system when bleeding, eliminating the need to open and close the bleeder. All you do is crack open the bleeder, pump away, keep an eye on the fluid level, and close the bleeder up. I’ll be doing the same upgrade for the brake calipers soon as well.

    Replacing the master cylinder was a pretty normal process. I made sure to bench bleed the master before installing it so there is no air trapped in it internally.







    The slave cylinder definitely looked like it was due for a change because of how the internal mechanism was worn and dirty with a fluid/grease mixture. I was also unsure if this slave was the OEM one or not because I'd never seen the tip of a slave cylinder be so long, like the one that came off my car.











    I went through a lot of effort to route the new stainless line in the most OEM fashion possible. If you look at the OEM line, there is this large durable foam cushion section where it passes through a plastic mounting tab on the transmission alongside the engine harness. I decided I would recreate the same cushion for my aftermarket line so I could still safely pass it through the OEM mount and not worry about the line rubbing and chafing over time. I cut a slit down the side of some spare PVC hose and slipped it onto the line because the correct size hose would not fit over the fittings on the ends of the line. After the hose was positioned into place on the line, I shrunk some large heat shrink tubing around it to better hold it in its place and prevent it from somehow coming off. Once the line was all fitted with its newly created cushioning, I put it through the factory location. I highly suggest opting for the black stainless line as opposed to the silver because it achieves that OEM look way better.











    Here are a few additional tips I have for when doing this job. Go buy a flare nut wrench (8mm) to disconnect the brake hardlines. More times than not, those pesky nuts won’t want to come off with a normal open-ended box wrench and will try to strip on you. And don’t forget to lube the tip of the slave cylinder where it touches the clutch fork, if you don’t it will evolve into a squeak at idle or when you push in the clutch.

    Next, I followed the clutch pedal adjustment instructions that Flyin’ Miata provides with their clutch kit install to dial in the pedal engagement (big brain hack, I love detailed instructions).

    The clutch engagement feels loads better now and it is easier to rev-match the car now because the clutch engagement is a lot more predictable.

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  22. #27
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Good job once more! Fairly sure that the IAT thing is a "feature" of the system, tricking the stock ECU to deliver more fuel.

  23. #28
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! lifebyevan's Avatar
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    December 8th, 2020

    The maintenance continues with more fresh fluids and new brake components!

    It was time for an oil change, so the run of the mill Rotella T5 and OEM Mazda filter got changed out. Not sure if I already mentioned this before but there are a couple of reasons I run T5 and the OEM filter. Rotella T5 is 10w40 which is the recommended weight of oil that Flyin’ Miata recommends for their turbo cars so if it's good enough for their boosted cars it's good enough for mine! The Mazda OEM filter is nice because the o-ring on the filter is not removable so you never have to worry about it sticking to the motor when removing the filter. Plus both items are affordable and accessible.



    I noticed before I changed the oil that there was a tiny bit of oil dripping from the adapter for my oil filter relocation onto my subframe. I cleaned the affected area and snugged up the adapter which ended up being just a hair loose. The adapter has stayed nice and dry since



    The beautiful 6-speed transmission and torsen differential were up next. They both got some brand new gear oil.

    For the transmission, I got 1 liter of Redline MT-90 Gear Oil and 1 liter of Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil. I used a 50/50 mix and just put a full bottle of each in my transmission since the 6-speed calls for 2 quarts. MT-90 can handle the higher temperatures that may result from hard-driving, such as track use as opposed to the normal 75w90 that most people run. MT-90 might not perform as well as the 75w90 when it's cold (supposedly), but I have not noticed any difference yet with street driving. The liter of Lightweight Shockproof oil is a trick to be able to add the ultimate gearbox protection to the setup. All this information I found on Flyin’ Miatas website when doing research, so I trust their judgment. The differential got the classic Redline 75w90.





    Both the transmission and the differential, to my delight, on the NB have magnetic drain plugs from the factory. I almost spent money on magnetic ones before starting the job, but I decided not to at the last minute and I am glad I did. I still might pick one up for the engine drain plug though. Anyway, there were no alarming amounts of metal shavings stuck to the bolts or glittery particles in the old oil. There was just a small deposit of metal-ly oily dust sludge on each drain bolt. It seemed normal for oil that was probably at least 40,000 miles old. I cleaned them both up and fitted the drain plugs and fill plugs with new crush washers. I tightened them all up and marked them with a paint marker to know that they have not come loose at any point.


    (fill and drain plugs for the 6 speed - the differential had the same style fill and drain)







    I replaced the old lipped and grooved rotors for some fresh Centric blanks all the way around. My brake pad of choice for the job was a set of GLOC R6 for the front and rear. This compound GLOC made specifically for autocross applications, while also still being able to be used on the street. They do warn that they may make noise but I was willing to take the risk, especially after trying out a set of G10/G8 pads on another Miata. GLOCs are known for being really high quality and having some great release characteristics for excellent brake modulation for spirited driving or track use.









    The brake pad install was going great until I hit a snag at the very last caliper on the driver’s side rear. The caliper piston would not retract no matter how much I messed with the internal gear on the inside with an allen key. I removed the internal gear with the allen head on it and inspected it, nothing seemed damaged. After several minutes of coercing and frustration, I tried flipping my allen key around so that I was able to turn the key by pushing on the longer of the 2 sides. As soon as I did that I felt the gear strip on the inside of the caliper, game over. Protip, only ever try to turn the gear with the short side of your allen key. I tried using a spare internal caliper retraction gear I had in the garage but I was only able to turn the gear about 360 degrees in each direction before it wouldn’t budge anymore. My guess was that maybe the previous owner had forced the caliper back with a traditional caliper retraction tool in the past, causing some internal damage to the caliper and then me stripping the gear and potentially lodging some debris from the gear was the nail in the coffin. Either way, I had to replace the caliper.



    I was really torn about this decision for a couple of days because I did not foresee this being an issue due to the low mileage of the car, despite knowing very well beforehand how easily Miata rear calipers can be damaged without the proper knowledge. I didn’t want to replace the rear caliper with anything but an OEM caliper because I do not like remanufactured calipers just because the quality is hit or miss. And not only were new OEM calipers an arm and a leg as far as cost, but the detail-oriented part of me would also want to replace all the calipers at one time instead of just one, that way the four corners were in the same condition in regards to seals and aesthetics. After much deliberation, I decided to source an OEM caliper from eBay that came off a rust-free NB2 (non-sport suspension package) with 98,000 miles. I chose this because not only was it OEM, but it was also as close to the mileage of my car as I could find online. Now the replaced caliper won’t stick out like a sore thumb by the only brand new one. I can also sleep at night knowing that all my calipers match in condition inside and out, for the most part, and I did not have to spend a boatload of money on brand new calipers unexpectedly.



    Back to our regularly scheduled programming… Maintenance!

    I degreased and cleaned all the OEM brake pad hardware because it was still in good shape from the looks of it. I regreased all the metal on metal contact points for the brake pad hardware and brake pads, as well as the calipers slide pins in AGS Sil-Glyde brake lubricant. I thought about using just generic high temp bearing grease for the brake components but upon further research I found that would be a terrible idea because that is a lithium base grease which can ruin the rubber components of your calipers, causing them to degrade rapidly. And the grease can turn hard and gum-like. Needless to say, I decided not to cheap out and got a proper silicone, brake specific, grease.



    I installed a set of Russel speed bleeders on all my calipers before bleeding them, which I was mega hyped about. I’ve always despised bleeding hydraulic systems until I discovered speed bleeders. This was my favorite part of the job because of how quick and easy it was haha. Something that I found that made me raise my eyebrow was that the bleeder I took out of my original driver’s side rear caliper was bent a good amount when I was taking it apart…. Hmm. Maybe a hint at the manhandling history of this caliper’s past… the world may never know.









    I chose to use ATE Type-200 for my new brake fluid. Word on the street is that this fluid is a higher performance formula with a high boiling point similar to Motul but for a fraction of the cost. Between this new fluid and the speed bleeders, I was so hyped. I was able to flush all my old fluid out and bleed all four corners of my car in less than 10 minutes by myself. This is not only exciting but gives me no excuse to not bleed my brakes on a frequent basis.







    All that was left was to check the rear calipers were adjusted properly for the e-brake to function still, throw the wheels back on, get the car on the ground and go for a test drive. I will say the GLOC R6 pads are really nice. They work great when they are cold and during normal street driving. Once you do one or two hard stops and get some heat into the pads, they firm up the brake pedal and pads grab a lot quicker. They have excellent release characteristics but are not overly grabby like some other performance pads, like Hawks. Dusting is slightly more than an OEM pad, as one would expect from a performance pad, but definitely not unbearable. They do make some noise occasionally, but only when there is some significant heat built up in them, which I found odd yet interesting. All that means is that if I drive like a normal person on the street everything is quiet and kosher. But if I am driving a bit like a madman and getting into boost a bunch, my brake pads might go racecar mode and start squeaking when I am coming to a stop until they cool down. It's a toss-up if they decide to squeak or not, after driving on them for several weeks. I may regrease the ends of the pads and hardware if they squeak on a more frequent basis.

  24. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to lifebyevan For This Useful Post:

    Greasemonkey2000 (02-09-2021),HarryB (02-09-2021),MaRcOp01o (02-09-2021),MiataQuest (02-09-2021),oldgrayleather (02-11-2021)

  25. #29
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
    Drives
    2001 NB2 aka Misfire
    Location
    Temple, Tx is where Chad resides.
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    Nov 2013
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    See posts like these is why I LOVE forums and think they are FAR SUPERIOR to the "instant gratification, self absorbed social media" that is becoming ever more popular(sadly).

    The content is actually meaningful. I always appreciate others that chronicle the mundane maintenance jobs, if nothing else it shows the level of carethst is given but also attention to detail. So kudos Evan! Keep up the great work sir!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  26. The Following User Says Thank You to Greasemonkey2000 For This Useful Post:

    oldgrayleather (02-11-2021)

  27. #30
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MaRcOp01o's Avatar
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    93 EUNOS and 93 LE
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    Miami,Fl
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    Amazing write as usual Evan and I completely agree Chad.

    Nothing is better than taking all your pics and thinking of what to write.
    Follow the Builds
    1993 Eunos Roadster B-spec by Mazdaspeed
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....819#post222819
    1993 Mazda Miata LE
    https://mazdaroadster.net/showthread...233#post244233

  28. The Following User Says Thank You to MaRcOp01o For This Useful Post:

    oldgrayleather (02-11-2021)

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