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Thread: DIY Hacked OEM Shorty Console

  1. #16
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone wannafbody's Avatar
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    Revlimiter makes those window switches

  2. #17
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch 91BRGLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wannafbody View Post
    Revlimiter makes those window switches
    I mean the single one above the rev limiter ones.

  3. #18
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    Pics should be back. My hosting company was upgrading the server that my site is located on, so there was some downtime during the transition.

    The momentary pushbutton switch was obtained from ebay (some random chinese company). It was originally intended to be the start button in my Volvo, but the dimensions on the auction were misprinted and when it showed up and was about 1/4 of the size it was supposed to be I was not amused. It would have cost more to ship it back to China than my refund would have been, so I stuck it in my box of goodies until I had a use for it. So glad I did too, because it really suits the car!

    I'm pretty sure this is the switch that I used: eBay--1pcs Stainless illuminated Momentary switch-green(19mm) I think it was cheaper back then, but that was at least 5 years ago, so...

    And if anyone cares, here's what eventually did go into the Volvo:


    Illuminated arcade start button!
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
    Active: 1995 Mazda Miata (M-Edition) [Full Send Project]
    Hiatus: 1997 Mazda Miata (PEP) [Candidate for Lifted Miata?]
    Hiatus: 1958 Volvo 444 Sport w/ Ford 2.9L EFI and drivetrain

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  5. #19
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch 91BRGLE's Avatar
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    Thanks! Best shorty and now best start button!

  6. #20
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    This looks awesome, any chance I can drive over to where you are and you can help me make mine? lol

  7. #21
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    Haha, I don't know about making yours, but I could definitely drink beer and watch while you burn your fingers making it yourself...

    Actually though, if we can ever finish some of our remodeling projects and get the house/garage cleaned up, I'd love to host a Miata "wrench day" where people could bring their food, drink, and car parts and everyone could chip in on some cars to get some free/cheap labor. Sadly, it's going to be a looong time before the house is ready for that at the rate we're moving.
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
    Active: 1995 Mazda Miata (M-Edition) [Full Send Project]
    Hiatus: 1997 Mazda Miata (PEP) [Candidate for Lifted Miata?]
    Hiatus: 1958 Volvo 444 Sport w/ Ford 2.9L EFI and drivetrain

  8. #22
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    Just thought that I'd update this with another tip/technique. I believe the console is made from a plastic which can be dissolved by acetone, so an alternative to the "RapidFix" glue would be to dissolve some of the scrap parts of the console into a small amount of acetone (use a glass jar with a lid that seals tightly!) and make your own plastic "cement" goop mixture. If you make it thin, you can brush it on and then press/hold the parts together and they should bond. If you make it thick enough, you can fill some gaps. My experience is that if it's thin you don't want to use large quantities as the mixture will shrink substantially when the solvent evaporates, leaving bubbles.

    *Note: When working with acetone, always work in a well ventilated area and follow proper safety precautions as per the instructions on the product. Also, I'd suggest playing/practicing with the scraps before trying to assemble your final piece.
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
    Active: 1995 Mazda Miata (M-Edition) [Full Send Project]
    Hiatus: 1997 Mazda Miata (PEP) [Candidate for Lifted Miata?]
    Hiatus: 1958 Volvo 444 Sport w/ Ford 2.9L EFI and drivetrain

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  10. #23
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Airbrush1's Avatar
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    Pro-tip, acetone smells awesome!

    Good job on the console, I have a spare laying around that I've been meaning to mess with

  11. #24
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Now you have me wanting a "shorty". Will have to head to U-Pull-It after the holiday.

  12. #25
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Axt3365's Avatar
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    Here's a couple of the one I made for my girlfriends 95 M edition. Fits nicely if I say so myself and especially with her Italvolanti wheel ��
    image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

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  14. #26
    The Technical Guy RuckkehrMiata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axt3365 View Post
    Here's a couple of the one I made for my girlfriends 95 M edition. Fits nicely if I say so myself and especially with her Italvolanti wheel ��
    image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg
    You made them? If from scratch those are really nice!
    `89 NA build: 二回目 My (defunct) `92 NA build: Ruckkehr

  15. #27
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Axt3365's Avatar
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    Yessir! Hacked up a stock console and formed the end of it! Plastic welded the switch mount then fiberglassed it in.
    image.jpegimage.jpgimage.jpegimage.jpeg

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    Demon I Am (01-26-2016),Paul B (01-25-2016),Phatmiata (01-24-2016),RuckkehrMiata (01-24-2016)

  17. #28
    Idling - Listen to it purr... NbSteve's Avatar
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    Sorry to revive an old thread but is there a writup on the window override?! I'd love to do this


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #29
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    Sorry, for such a late response, but I don't log in to the forums much anymore. I don't have any DIY for this and it's been a very long time since I did it, so I can't give you exact details, but I can give you the general process:

    1. Find a source for 12v constant power. You can use an "add-a-fuse" kit to tap into an appropriate source at the fuse panel, or you can run a (fused) power wire all the way from the battery. Make sure you use a suitable gauge of wire and fuse for the power window circuit.

    2. Get a "momentary on" and off switch. This can be a push button, toggle, rocker, whatever. Just make sure that it's mom.on-off. This way the windows can only be rolled up/down while pressing/holding the override switch unless the ignition is on. If you really wanted to, you could use a regular on-off switch, but that would make it so that you'd have to remember to turn the switch off to undo the bypass. I suppose if you really wanted to you could do a permanent bypass by just not using a switch at all.

    3. Use a relay. Unless your chosen switch can handle a pretty high current, it is recommended to use a relay to supply the power triggered by your switch. You can source positive power for both the switch and relay from the constant 12v wire that you already set up in step 1. If you're not sure how to wire up a standard relay, I'll let you google it. There are a few different common approaches that work.

    4. Hook your triggered override power to the 12V-IGN power wire in the power window harness. In my '97 (and most other year models, I believe) it is the black wire with white stripe. Depending on what modifications if any you've already made (such as a DIY power window switch assembly), you'll have to determine the best method for splicing in for your install. It wouldn't be a bad idea to wire in a diode that prevents the override power from backfeeding into the 12V-IGN circuit, but if you don't know how to do that I'm not going to get into it here. I can't recall whether or not I even bothered to do it on my install.
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
    Active: 1995 Mazda Miata (M-Edition) [Full Send Project]
    Hiatus: 1997 Mazda Miata (PEP) [Candidate for Lifted Miata?]
    Hiatus: 1958 Volvo 444 Sport w/ Ford 2.9L EFI and drivetrain

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