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Thread: DIY Power Window Switch Info

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    DIY Power Window Switch Info

    This is applicable to 1997 NA Miatas, but I believe that it should be correct for other NA year models and probably NB models.

    Parts Required:

    A) Switch panel - You can either use a blank switch panel from a Miata with manual windows or else cut a flat piece of sheet metal or plastic to fit and drill a few mounting holes to screw it to your console. If you opt to cut a new panel, I suggest making a template out of cardboard and once you've got the shape you want trace it on to the sheet metal or plastic that you plan to use. This might save you some frustration of getting the exact shape desired. Trace the area of the console cutout where the switches used to be onto your blanking plate. This will help you center the switches in the right place when you drill the plate.

    B) Switches - You will need two DPDT (double pole double throw) MOM.ON-OFF-MOM.ON switches. A DPDT switch will have SIX pins on the back. A momentary on/off/momentary on switch will have THREE positions, and will always return to the center position when not being pushed. You can use either a toggle or rocker switch type, but the toggle switches tend to be easier to mount (because they are inserted through a hole rather than a rectangular opening). You'll want to use a relatively heavy duty switch (ideally a 30A switch, but you can probably get away with a 25A or 20A switch) in order to prevent burning them out.

    I used some switches from NAPA (p/n: ECH - TG7071). If you don't have any NAPA stores in your area, you want to look for something like this: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=060-376

    C) Wire, spade connectors, crimpers - You'll need some basic electrical tools to hook everything up. I would recommend using at least 16-gauge wire, but 14-gauge wire might be better.


    Wiring Up the Switches:

    This is the most confusing part of the project for most people, but I will try to keep it simple.

    You can either cut the pigtail off of an OEM window switch and adapt it to your new switches, or else you can use some standard male spade connectors to plug in the wires from your switches to the harness's power window connector.

    There will be 6 wires on the wiring harness's power window switch connector. If you are looking at the pinout for the OEM harness, what you see should be something like this:
    ______------______
    |_B+W_|_G+R_|__R__|
    |__B__|__G__|_R+G_|


    The B+W wire is the 12v+ power source, the B wire is the ground. The G+R and G wires are the +/- for the driver side window, and the R and R+G are the +/- for the passenger window.

    Each switch will have 6 pins (3 pairs of terminals-- top, middle, and bottom).

    The first thing you need to do is split the B and B+W wires so that you have one of each going to both switches. You will connect these to either the top or bottom pair of terminals on the switches (depending on how much room you have where you are mounting the switch).
    NOTE: These would be the BLACK and RED wires in the attached photos.

    Next you will take some short lengths of wire and use them to jumper the top-left terminal to bottom-right terminal, and the top-right terminal to bottom-left terminal. It should look like an X across the back of the switch.
    NOTE: These would be the BLACK and RED wires in the attached photos.

    Now you just need to connect the signal wires for the power window motors to your switches. As mentioned before, the green and green+red wires are for the driver side window, and the red and red+green are for the passenger window. These will connect at the middle pairs of terminals.
    NOTE: These would be the RED+WHITE and GREEN+WHITE wires for one switch and the RED+BLUE and GREEN+BLUE wires for the other switch.

    The switches should now work properly, but you will want to test them out before putting everything back together. If something isn't right, take another look at these instructions and see if you can figure out where you went wrong. If all else fails, send me a PM and I will try to help you troubleshoot things to get it working properly.


    Putting It All Together:

    Once you're confident that the switches operate properly, mark your switch panel and drill your holes for mounting the switches. Be sure to take into account the size of the switches so that both switches fit into the panel and don't hit anything on the underside of the console.

    * You may also consider using something like liquid electrical tape or silicon sealant to insulate the terminals on the back side of the switches if they are exposed. It's fairly unlikely that it could happen, but it would really suck to have them accidentally bump up against some bare metal somewhere along the transmission tunnel and short out.

    Now just put it all back together. From here on out, you should be able to handle the rest of it without detailed instructions.

    swichi01.jpgswichi02.jpgswichi03.jpgswichi04.jpgIMG_1420s.jpg8424_723274529999_11831309_41018806.jpgDSC_3337Large.jpg
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
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  2. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to jnshk For This Useful Post:

    Guenni67 (07-19-2018),Phatmiata (09-02-2013),Pyromonkey333 (04-14-2017),WASABI (09-04-2013)

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    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    A most excellent contribution. Thank you!

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    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    This is from my blog post on the retro window switch I make. Perhaps it'll help out a few folks too?

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to revlimiter For This Useful Post:

    Phatmiata (09-02-2013)

  6. #4
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    Thanks, Adam! I think that will indeed be very helpful for folks It visually explains/illustrates what needs to be done with the wiring at the switches, and is probably a lot easier to understand than my wall of text. A picture can be worth a thousand words.
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
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    Supporting Member Jimmy Vee's Avatar
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    Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one.

    Does anyone know if these rotary switches will work with the power windows?


    They are mom on/off/mom on, dpdt and designed for forward/reverse motors. From the rear view it looks like the crossover (connecting 1 to 6 and 3 to 4 in Rev's diagram) is built into the design, but I'd want to be sure they would work before spending $80 + Shipping. They are also available in HD 50 amp.


    Obviously I'd be replacing the knob with something like VVVV

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! RetroModern's Avatar
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    not without some extensive rewiring/relays, etc. plus you run a chance of burning your motor out if you leave them on too long since they do not appear to be momentary. also i feel that a rotary knob of that size would look out of proportion with the switch panel. but thats just my opinion and anything can be made to work given some creative thinking.

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Vee View Post
    Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one.

    Does anyone know if these rotary switches will work with the power windows?
    http://www.partdeal.com/media/catalo...7/77163164.JPG

    They are mom on/off/mom on, dpdt and designed for forward/reverse motors. From the rear view it looks like the crossover (connecting 1 to 6 and 3 to 4 in Rev's diagram) is built into the design, but I'd want to be sure they would work before spending $80 + Shipping. They are also available in HD 50 amp.
    http://www.partdeal.com/media/catalo.../77163164A.JPG

    Obviously I'd be replacing the knob with something like VVVV
    http://www.surplus-electronics-sales...20Acc%20sm.jpg
    Based on your description, they should work. You may want to contact Cole-Hersee or do some research to find out the physical dimensions of the switch though. We sell some similar switches at work, and they are very large/bulky.
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
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    Hiatus: 1958 Volvo 444 Sport w/ Ford 2.9L EFI and drivetrain

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    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Very interesting thread.


    No todo que es oro brilla.

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    Supporting Member Jimmy Vee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnshk View Post
    Based on your description, they should work. You may want to contact Cole-Hersee or do some research to find out the physical dimensions of the switch though. We sell some similar switches at work, and they are very large/bulky.
    The case is 2.1" diameter, but I'll be mounting them into an M2 style tombstone, so space isn't a major issue.
    The other option is to use relays and a SPDT (on)-off-(on) rotary switch.

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! RetroModern's Avatar
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    i would go that route. wire up the relays the same way you would wire up a door lock module.

  13. #11
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    If space isn't an issue and the switches aren't difficult to obtain, I'd say go for it and post back your results! It's a nice new twist on what's been done before.
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
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    Supporting Member Jimmy Vee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Vee View Post
    The other option is to use relays and a SPDT (on)-off-(on) rotary switch.
    The switches finally arrived today to do this method, good news is it works. It's an absolute rat's nest of wires though, needing to go from 6 wires at the PW connector to 20 at the relays and back to 6 at the switches. So the plan is to enclose all of the relays and splits inside a box with a harness coming out either end for the switches and power window harness. I'll try to put together a write up when I wire them up properly.

  15. #13
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone wannafbody's Avatar
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    Good luck, that sounds like a lot of work to sort through

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    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Nice write up. I do have question though. Do you need the socket from the original switch to connect it?

  17. #15
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    You can use uninsulated male 1/4" spade connectors for each wire, which will plug directly into the car's wiring harness at the connector, or you can cut and splice the old switch's pigtail connector onto the new switches.
    Active: 1991 Mazda Miata (B-Package), JRSC+MS3 [Daily/Project]
    Active: 1995 Mazda Miata (M-Edition) [Full Send Project]
    Hiatus: 1997 Mazda Miata (PEP) [Candidate for Lifted Miata?]
    Hiatus: 1958 Volvo 444 Sport w/ Ford 2.9L EFI and drivetrain

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