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Thread: This ain't no build thread!

  1. #946
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Adhesives need surface area to work properly. Take a look at "composite nuts" or "plate bonding nuts". These are designed to be laminated/sandwiched inside a composite material and are essentially nuts with a plate welded to them. You can replicate it with a wide washer, a nut, and a welder. What I would do is buy/make one of these, bond with adhesive, and hand laminate 3-4 layers of fiberglass/epoxy on top of the flange, increasing the area of every layer.

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  3. #947
    Supporting Member MiataQuest's Avatar
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    Leveraging on Harry's message...
    I have had good results with JB Weld. (not the quick set version) You can buy this at any auto parts store.
    Sand both the fastener face and the diffuser.
    Then wire wheel the outside of the nut.
    Clean both with acetone.
    Mix and apply JB Weld to both the fastener face and the diffuser face.
    Press the fastener in place to the diffuser.
    Now apply JB Weld all around the exterior of the fastener and blend it onto the diffuser face. Expand the JB Weld about a 1/2 inch (25mm) around the fastener on the diffuser face.
    This increases the effective patch area as Harry indicated.
    Don't touch it for 48 hours.

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  5. #948
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Adhesives need surface area to work properly. Take a look at "composite nuts" or "plate bonding nuts". These are designed to be laminated/sandwiched inside a composite material and are essentially nuts with a plate welded to them. You can replicate it with a wide washer, a nut, and a welder. What I would do is buy/make one of these, bond with adhesive, and hand laminate 3-4 layers of fiberglass/epoxy on top of the flange, increasing the area of every layer.
    Great minds think alike. I was thinking of making a capture envelope (so to speak) to hold the nut in place. While figuring out how I would do that, I had another thought. See below.

    Quote Originally Posted by MiataQuest View Post
    Leveraging on Harry's message...
    I have had good results with JB Weld. (not the quick set version) You can buy this at any auto parts store.
    Sand both the fastener face and the diffuser.
    Then wire wheel the outside of the nut.
    Clean both with acetone.
    Mix and apply JB Weld to both the fastener face and the diffuser face.
    Press the fastener in place to the diffuser.
    Now apply JB Weld all around the exterior of the fastener and blend it onto the diffuser face. Expand the JB Weld about a 1/2 inch (25mm) around the fastener on the diffuser face.
    This increases the effective patch area as Harry indicated.
    Don't touch it for 48 hours.
    Thanks for the detailed instruction on making that work. I am sure it will help someone.

    As mentioned above, I had another thought. Why a) it didn't occur to me earlier, and b) it wasn't used by JetStream, I don't know. Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the lowly speed nut:

    Removed one of the screws and took it up to Ace so I could find the thread size/pitch. Had an annoying salesperson who insisted on helping me even after I told him I was fine. He did not know what I meant when I asked for a speed nut (tried to cover it up by saying folks called them different things). For posterity the screws used are M6 X 1.0. In any event, they had what I needed so next time I remove that lower diffuser I can give these a shot. The only possible issue I see is if their thickness causes the upper and lower halves to have a noticeable separation.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
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  7. #949
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    A few weeks ago I took the plunge on a new set of door bushings. These are made by a friend over in Greece (hi Harry) who has started a business producing certain Miata parts (you can find him at https://www.instagram.com/dcbe.tech/). It took a little over two weeks for me to receive them via USPS. What sets these apart from the usual Delrin type is they have a solid core with a rubberized coating. The cross-section is different as well. New type is on the left in the pictures:


    He also includes stainless socket head cap screws as part of the package. Installation is like other door bushings. I did have to mess with the passenger door bushing a few times to get it just right (probably something to do with that door on my car). End result is great. Same feeling of solidity with a much easier closure of the doors with no sanding of the bushing. I can recommend these.

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  9. #950
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Thanks for the review Mike, and very glad you are happy with these!

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  11. #951
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Might have to check these out. Not been particularly pleased with my Delrin bushings.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  12. #952
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Might have to check these out. Not been particularly pleased with my Delrin bushings.
    If there's no rain in the forecast tomorrow, you can caress them in person.

  13. #953
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefmg View Post
    If there's no rain in the forecast tomorrow, you can caress them in person.
    Oh yeah, duh!
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  14. #954
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Finally set about repacking my new rear wheel bearings. Followed basically the same procedure as I used for the fronts with some slight differences. There are two seals on the rears and I didn’t see any way of removing them without damage so they stayed in. I did end up removing the backing spring as they kept popping out and that was easier (don’t lose them). Same for the balls and retainers, everything was tight in there. I wedged pennies between the two inner races, drove out the first one then flipped the bearing over and drove out the second one. It seemed like there was a slight difference in the curvature of the two races so I made sure not to mix them up. I wiped out as much of the old grease as I could, it was white which I have never seen in a bearing grease. Then I soaked it in hot water and the same Oil Eater cleaner I used on the fronts. Took several washes/blowing out with air in order to remove the old grease since nothing could be taken apart. Then in with the new synthetic grease, install the seal springs and put the races back in. Note with this step you have to be careful that the lip of the seal doesn’t get folded under the race. Those are both done and ready for installation.

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  16. #955
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    Sounds like the hokey pokey

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  18. #956
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
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  19. #957
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Thanks for looking out, but I already have one and it wasn't nearly that expensive. That's money for mods!

    Washed her dirty butt two days ago. Also started the installation of my air line from the compressor location to the hose reel by the garage door (finally).

    Had to order a couple of fittings to finish, those came in today. This means I won’t have to run the air hose from the compressor all the time when I need it in the driveway. I am a little concerned about others using it because of the proximity of the hose reel to the Miata, but I can fix that while I’m gone.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    This ain't no build thread!

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  21. #958
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Today I finally got around to adding an electrical receptacle by the garage door. I did this mainly to make things easier when using the Miata’s battery charger while gone. Bonus is it means I won’t have to run an extension cord when vacuuming cars outside etc. No pictures as all I had to do was drill a hole through two 2X4s, go into the attic and run the wire, figure out which circuit breaker fed the receptacle I was tying into, then hook everything up and check for voltage. Just a simple little up-and-down job.
    Last edited by chiefmg; 04-20-2021 at 06:17 PM.

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  23. #959
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Gave her a bath, pulled into the garage and connected the battery charger for her nap.

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  25. #960
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    I won't get to see it for a few months, and once installed no one will know it is there, but I purchased something from my friend Harry B. Y'all gonna have to wait until September or thereabouts to find out just what it is.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    This ain't no build thread!

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