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Thread: This ain't no build thread!

  1. #931
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    There are a lot of Miatas on original hubs. People who do extracurricular activities with theirs usually consider hours on-track to mileage.

    For daily driving, they can last a long time, thousands of miles. For track use with racing tires, they last about 8-15 hours.

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  3. #932
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Of course now days with 15x8 w/225 200TW setups(or wider) becoming more popular the life span of said factory hubs will be shorter even on the street. Nice work Mike! Your so much more entertaining when you're not a seamen.
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  4. #933
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Of course now days with 15x8 w/225 200TW setups(or wider) becoming more popular the life span of said factory hubs will be shorter even on the street. Nice work Mike! Your so much more entertaining when you're not a seamen.
    Once a seaman, always a seaman. It's a burden that I have to bear.

    She’s been acting strangely so I did some datalogging yesterday while driving to two C&C gatherings. Looking through them I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Checked some settings and found that Boost Control was turned on along with some strange drivers for the injectors. I got rid of those and burned the changes to the MS. Today while out driving she wasn’t running right, I shut her off to cycle things and then she wouldn’t restart. I had my computer connected so restored to a previous save point, which allowed her to start. Headed for home and she exhibited bouncing of the AFR with surging and other strangeness. I don’t see anything in the MS that is obvious so I’m going to check all my connectors and wiring to make sure nothing is loose or chewed by varmints.

    With my new welder on hand I realized I could do the brake master cylinder brace myself. While looking to be sure I knew the material of the shock brace, I found that Moss has a brace designed to bolt directly to the Cobalt two point shock brace. It will give me all I need, and hopefully it is long enough to span the opening on my shock brace so I can just weld it in (it not then I will be doing some filling). That is on order so I can get that job done soon.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
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  6. #934
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    The master cylinder brace arrived today. Here is what you get:

    There are also a couple of nuts/bolts used to attach it to the other shock brace but I don’t care about those.

    I positioned it so the body of the brace was wholly on the left side mount of the shock brace, but that won’t work:

    In order to have the brace touch the master cylinder I was looking at only having a couple of threads engaged in the long nut. So, on to the next idea:

    I screwed the brace into the long nut and then messed with where I could put the body. I was thinking I might have to get some stainless plate and make a L shape, but looking at everything I will be able to weld all around the body including on the back side. That should give me more than enough strength.

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  8. #935
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefmg View Post
    Today while out driving she wasn’t running right, I shut her off to cycle things and then she wouldn’t restart. I had my computer connected so restored to a previous save point, which allowed her to start. Headed for home and she exhibited bouncing of the AFR with surging and other strangeness. I don’t see anything in the MS that is obvious so I’m going to check all my connectors and wiring to make sure nothing is loose or chewed by varmints.
    Maybe recalibrate your WBO2. Otherwise, keep an eye on the AFR/surging. If it correlates to strange or erratic idle, you may have a circuit controlling relay sticking.

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  10. #936
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Maybe recalibrate your WBO2. Otherwise, keep an eye on the AFR/surging. If it correlates to strange or erratic idle, you may have a circuit controlling relay sticking.
    I calibrated the wideband sensor about two weeks ago when I first noticed the problem (figured after sitting for so long it was prudent). I'm still looking, thanks for the suggestion of a relay.

    Made a run to Harbor Freight to pick up some pliers etc for welding. When I got home pulled some pieces off so that I could target the MC brace where I would weld it:

    Pulled the shock brace off and commenced to welding. Again, not my best as I am still coming to grips with setting up the wire feed welder. But hey, grind some of the ugly down and it isn’t too bad:


    Assembled everything back together, adjusted the MC brace bolt and voila:

    Haven’t gone for a drive yet, but pushing on the brake pedal while sitting shows a pedal that has zero give. Can’t wait to see how this impacts my braking (I have driven other cars with a MC brace and it does great things for braking feel).

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  12. #937
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    As mentioned I have been having drivability issues. Took several datalogs. I was getting surging under many modes (including steady-state throttle), gas consumption was way up and I just couldn’t trust not having problems. In looking through the logs I was trying to spot any inconsistencies (there is a lot of data to absorb so pretty difficult). One thing I noticed was fluctuation in the TPS (throttle position sensor) %, even when it was in a steady state. I also performed the calibration of the TPS within the MegaSquirt, and found differences each time in the zero setting. With the thinking that the last thing you touched probably being the cause, yesterday I swapped back to the original TPS that I had changed out last year while chasing my stumbling issue. Took her on a short drive this morning to get the tank filled, and there were zero issues. Feeling lucky I then drove to a C&C. Freeway miles along with in-town, and I am happy to report everything was still good. I feel certain I solved the problem at this time. Lesson learned for me, I will not be buying any more cheap electronic parts in the future.

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  14. #938
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Seems you got that sorted, but next time you work on the car, take a look at the plug as well. I have had more than one instance that the plug/wiring loom was the issue, with loose pins, etc.

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  16. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Seems you got that sorted, but next time you work on the car, take a look at the plug as well. I have had more than one instance that the plug/wiring loom was the issue, with loose pins, etc.
    Thanks Harry. I remember you mentioning that before. If the change to the TPS sensor hadn't worked for me, I was going to hand over hand the wiring loom to look for any breaks etc. I did have a look at the connector before I snapped it in place to make sure there was no burning or other issues.

  17. #940
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    It may not be that evident. Sometimes the metal contacts inside the connector lose their tension or have corrosion issues. I have also had metal contacts being pushed back and not making proper contact. Not sure that is the case here, but worth visually checking for peace of mind.

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  19. #941
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    You are not the only person who I have seen report issues with the TPS connector. I wonder what it is with that particular connector that leads to problems? I haven't seen any reports of similar issues with other factory connectors.

  20. #942
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Not sure; guess they get unplugged more often than others? I have had the same issue with an O2 sensor connector as well...

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  22. #943
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I have a theory on the TPS plug. It likely sees more abuse from NVH. The TB is perched out on the far corner of the engine, very far (relatively) from the engine mount. Considering the TB failures a lot of racecars see, the heat, and NVH, it makes sense that it is under more severe conditions than some other components.

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  24. #944
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    You both have valid points. Mine is mounted on the inlet of the supercharger so on the opposite side of the engine from stock. Probably going to be one of those unknowns as to cause and just have to occasionally check the damn thing.

    After a couple of search attempts, I found the rear 949 subframe brace at my storage. Crawled underneath and installed that this morning. With the new muffler hanger in place, I have space between the brace and the exhaust which means I can leave it on. This makes me happy.

    Neglected to post it, but after several drives now with the MC brace in place I am really pleased with the brake pedal feel now.

    New rear bearings have arrived.

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  26. #945
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Swung by the dealer and ordered the correct larger brake dust shields for the rear.

    Hoisted her up into the air to try adjusting the muffler position. Accomplished this by whacking the new muffler hanger with a hammer. I’ll see if this lets it maintain correct position side to side. If not then I will probably cut the hanger off and reweld it.

    The four nuts that connect the upper and lower rear diffuser pieces are a royal PITA to get in place. I have some construction adhesive that I used to glue down the stopper for the wife’s car that seemed to work well, so I gave that a shot. Put some around the perimeter of the nuts, then put them in place with the screws and left for a while to harden up before assembly.


    This worked on three out of four, the last one came loose but it was one that I was able to reach. Maybe once the adhesive hardens overnight it will be good.

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