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Thread: This ain't no build thread!

  1. #781
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    You gonna be in town at the end of the month? Going to be working on The Tick

    (Really would love a ride in your car...seems so well sorted!)
    Should be. Tell me when and I can bring my QuickJack over to make short work of your suspension.

    Not as well sorted as I want it to be but that will come in time. Thanks.
    Last edited by chiefmg; 06-15-2018 at 07:12 PM.

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  3. #782
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Finally got my thumb out and got in touch with EFI Analytics to see about getting my TunerStudio and MegaLogViewer registered on my laptop. They got back to me quickly with the necessary info so now I am all set to get to tuning. FYI, they have this information available on their site if you use this link:

    https://www.efianalytics.com/registe...ationEmail.jsp

    Once you enter the name and e-mail address you used for registration you will be sent e-mails with the codes needed for activation.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    This ain't no build thread!

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    tsingson (06-19-2018)

  5. #783
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    A while back I put some new foam pads on the soft top latches to keep them from rattling when I didn't have the boot cover on. I cut these from some adhesive foam I had on hand. After that I found that you can actually buy new pads from Mazda, so I did that. Here is the number:



    This morning I got around to installing these. The foam I made mine out of was about 2mm in thickness. As you can see the factory ones are much thicker:



    I removed the old ones from here (in case you are not sure of what I am talking about) and then after a good cleaning installed the new ones:





    Latches are nice and tight now. Once that was done I also replaced the forward splash guard on the passenger side front fender. It's this piece:



    I managed to break the old one at the bottom where the large opening is when I was putting everything back together after the head replacement. It wasn't really hurting anything but the new one was only $32 so I figured why not?

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  7. #784
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    I spoke too soon about the driver's airbag delete being a success. Beginning of the week I saw the light flashing six times, which is the code for the driver's airbag. I decided to just get the resistor arrangement from Garage Star. That came in two days ago so I pulled the one I had made (checked the resistance of that and it was 0.5 ohms), swapped over the connector and plugged that sucker in. No joy, the damn thing still flashed. Note I checked the resistance of the GS part before installing and it was 3.6-3.7 ohms. I removed the part and checked the resistance again with the factory connector in place and it read 0.5 ohms. So this morning I took the connectors that GS uses, opened them up so I could put them back on and then took the factory connector off. Before I did anything else I checked resistance of the GS piece and it was back to the same as my initial measurement. I checked for continuity between the ends of the factory connector and both were normal. I also checked the resistance of the resistor I used when I made mine up and it was 3.4 ohms. I have no idea why this wasn't working using the factory connector but oh well. Put the GS connectors back on and soldered the wires for good measure, then put it all back together. I'll find out later if it works or not.


  8. #785
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    No dice on the airbag resistor, the light started flashing again. Took me a few days to get motivated. Disconnected the battery this morning, when everything was back together the airbag light started flashing immediately. Double-checked the resistor and it is still showing the correct resistance. Probably going to try plugging the stock airbag back in to see if that clears the light, if not then I know something else went bad.

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    tsingson (07-04-2018)

  10. #786
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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  12. #787
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Thanks for that info Charlie. I looked in my factory manual and there is a test procedure to see if the clockspring is ok or not. May have to check it (see below).

    Pulled the steering wheel and connectors all out, reset the clockspring just in case I had messed that up and then put it all back together. Airbag light was out for a few drive cycles but it is back on. Time for some head scratching to see where that gets me.

    The 'charger belt has been moving off by one tooth since I put her all back together. I tried a small adjustment with no success, so this morning I pulled it off completely to move the brackets around. Took a couple of tries to get it where it needed to be but finally got it done. I'll wait for a road test with some speed changes to see if it will be okay or need some more fettling.
    Last edited by chiefmg; 07-08-2018 at 05:46 PM.

  13. #788
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    'charger belt has been staying in place so that is good. Unfortunately there has been some damage to the front edge from it walking so I'll get another one to replace it with.

    Scraped a couple of the diffuser fins last night leaving the driveway of one of my wife's friends. No major damage but I will have to lightly sand and repaint the damage.

    I've been doing some research on adjusting my VE tables. Finally manned up and made some changes to see what I could do. I am happy to report that it was an improvement. AFRs under boost are still high, but the gas smell is almost gone and she felt a little stronger. Now that I feel confidant in making changes I'll be doing more.

  14. #789
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Finally got my thumb out today and measured the resistance of the stock driver's airbag. It showed 0.3 ohms. Now everyone and their brother say to use a 3.3 ohm resistor when you remove the airbag which is a lot different. The GS one I bought measured at 3.6 ohms, the ones I previously tried were 3.3 ohms. I'm not the best with electrical stuff but I can get some 0.3 ohm resistors cheaply from Amazon, so I'm going to give that a shot.

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  16. #790
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Since I am now headed for MATG, this morning I got my Recaros out of storage and swapped them out. Dropped one of the washers I had modified to use as a spacer for the belt receiver, a diligent search couldn't find it. Made another one and got that all together.

    While the driver's seat was out I pulled the brake and clutch pedal switches that tie into the cruise control system. Since I have changed everything else with no change I figured might as well. The one on the brake pedal has two switches, one for the brake light actuation and the other for the cruise. Both of those tested good. The clutch switch was intermittent while I was measuring it. Sometimes I would get continuity/break, other times it would stay in continuity. Going to get one of those ordered to see if I can finally fix that problem.

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  18. #791
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    I like your posts but love those with pictures. ;)

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  20. #792
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Ah, but if I posted more pictures you wouldn't appreciate them as much as the infrequent ones I DO post.

    Replaced the 'charger belt this morning. You may recall I noticed some fraying of the edge from when it was walking off one rib. Figured better safe than sorry considering my upcoming trip.

  21. #793
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    This post is specifically for Slampen.

    Ok, so picked up the clutch switch on Saturday and installed it yesterday. Due to rain wasn't able to get out for a test until today. Results of that to come.

    So the switch I am talking about is the one on the clutch pedal that is closest to the driver. Mazda number here:



    Here is what it looks like:



    And here is where it goes:



    Note the lock nut on it is what allows you to set the height of your clutch pedal. Getting access to this is much easier if you have the seat removed and also remove the plate below the steering column. A set of thin wrenches make this job easier, as so:



    You can see the thinness compared to a normal wrench:



    So on to the test. Unfortunately this did not solve my issue so the cruise still doesn't work. On to the next possibility.

    Finally in case anyone has forgotten what the Recaros look like installed, here they are:


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  23. #794
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    Since I am supposed to be getting some help with my tune at MATG, I decided I would go ahead and calibrate the O2 sensor. Got that done, then since I was already under there figured I might as well finally install the RB front sway blocks I bought from some shyster named YellowYata. Found out the bolts were wrong so measured the length I would need and paid a visit to Ace. Got what I thought were the correct bolts (M8 X 1.25) based on the stock bolt and some nuts to lock the blocks down. Unfortunately the bolts were jamming when I tried putting them through the factory sway bushings blocks. Going to have to go to a local hardware store, they usually have a wider selection of fasteners to see if I can find what is correct.

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  25. #795
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    Forgot earlier but also while I was underneath the car I touched up the slight damage to the rear diffuser done on my wife's friend's driveway. Here is how it looked before:





    The impact only hit the two fins on the driver's side. I just sanded things down and gave them two coats of the paint. They ain't perfect but you won't see it if you don't crawl under the car.

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