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Thread: 1.6 to 1.8 Miata Conversion Motor Swap Thread.

  1. #16
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    yes, You transfer your crank and water pump pulley, you will be able to use your a/c, p/s, alt. You (should) have a long nose crank, so everything transfers over

  2. #17
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    OK, this is an important bit that is not found on very many of these threads. And due to that, this was completely overlooked on my swap. I need to do it asap, though.

    Everyone notes that you must extend the CAS wiring, but very few places note that you also need to extend the wiring for the secondary temperature sensor. This sensor is located in on the 1.6 in this location (the blue arrow; image stolen).
    Attachment 7286

    Remove the hex keyed grub screw found here: Attachment 7287 Mine has some kind of plastic filled in the hex screw. Not sure what is up.

    This is how it should look: Attachment 7288 Extend the wiring and connect. This secondary sensor sends the temp reading to the dash, so it's kinda important.

  3. #18
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Definitely a good piece of information to know about. In all of my reading on the swap I didn't see anything about that sensor posted.

    I was doing a coolant reroute at the same time as my swap so I already extended the wires for my coolant temp sensor that goes to the ecu (green connector sensor) and extended the wire for the sensor to the dash at the same time, not really paying attention to the fact that it would need to be extended for any swap whether you do a reroute or not.

    It's good to know about extending those wires while the engine is out because it makes things a lot easier.

    I have some other questions related to a swap w/ a reroute that I'll probably post up a new thread about, even if I find my answers in my many google searches tonight.
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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  4. #19
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    Yeah, I want this thread to have all the tips and tricks that will make this job easy on anyone. If you have things to add, go right ahead.

    Another thing I found conflicting reports on was the swapping over of the 1.6 fuel pressure regulator. I did not do the regulator swap, and have not seen any negative consequences. I am running the 1.8 rail and injectors.

  5. #20
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Yea, anything I come across I'll add. My question right now pertains to the coolant reroute and swap and the third sensor so I'm posting up a thread about that.

    I was under the impression that you use the 1.8 fuel system as far as fuel rail and injectors go so I wasn't going to swap the fuel pressure regulator. Good to hear you aren't having any issues with that.
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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  6. #21
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone wannafbody's Avatar
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    Is it possible to flip the rear coolant outlet to do the reroute? I know the sensor would be upside down, not sure if there is room for it flipped?

  7. #22
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Not sure what you're referring to. The factory coolant outlet at the back of the engine? That leads to the heater core. The Begi spacer has an outlet for the heater core and then you use a Kia thermostat housing for the upper rad hose.
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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  8. #23
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone wannafbody's Avatar
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    I didn't realize that outlet was for the heater hose.

  9. #24
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    I tweaked your thread title to make it more search friendly! Thank you for all of the great info!

  10. #25
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Tony . If that ford part number you have in your list of parts needed is that cap you bought and was to big you might want to remove it.maybe suggest the option of ordering through flying Miata while ordering the 1.8 Swap kit to reduce on shipping cost. Until maybe someone does find a hardware store match

  11. #26
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    good call

  12. #27
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Anybody else have issues with the coilpack bracket from FM and the CAS? Found it was in the way of adjusting timing. It was also in the way of my thermoswitch sensor in the rear housing of my reroute but that's not really related. Bent mine with a prybar to make it work.
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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  13. #28
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    I had no issue, but I also have not messed with the timing.

  14. #29
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by psulja View Post
    Anybody else have issues with the coilpack bracket from FM and the CAS? Found it was in the way of adjusting timing. It was also in the way of my thermoswitch sensor in the rear housing of my reroute but that's not really related. Bent mine with a prybar to make it work.
    Did you happen to call FM about this. I'm in process of getting parts together for mine. My swap kit is on order. Waiting for delivery. And never heard anything about having to band a bracket that is fabbed to move coil pack. I figured it would be made so you would not have to bend anything.

  15. #30
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    After transferring over the CAS from the 1.6 we needed to set the timing. No I didn't call them. I was busy at a friend's place setting the timing and didn't have any time to call them.
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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    1991 Mariner Blue - Built 1.8 swap, EFR, Fab9Tuning, Tii drivetrain

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