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Thread: Miata Dashboard Removal Instructions with pics

  1. #1
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    Miata Dashboard Removal Instructions with pics

    Removing the dash in your Miata is not as daunting a task as you might think. A few tools and careful progression is all you need.

    The following thread outlines how to remove a '90-'93 dash, although the '94-'97 dash removal is pretty much the same in my experience.

    **Note: If you don't see all the steps, it's because I am still updating the thread with new posts/pics, so please be patient.


    The pictures you'll see in this thread are of my old LE, taken back in 2003 or 2004 when I needed to repaint the upper black portion of the dash. The tan interior cars and the LE (red) both had the upper portion of the dash painted black AFTER the dash was cast as one piece of colored plastic. The reason for the black upper portion was to reduce glare on the windshield.

    All-black dashboards did not need to have the upper portion painted black, of course.

    Because of this "paint" or dye - whatever they used at the factory - over time, if not properly cared for, the coating may become faded and/or gummy.

    I removed the dash to have that gummy and scratched surface repainted. You may have another reason, such as a wire tuck, airbag hardware/wiring removal, etc.

    Whatever the reason, I hope that this guide will assist others, so here we go...

    The first thing you want to do is make sure you have ample room and light in which to work.

    The top will need to be down, or the hardtop will need to be off.

    You will need the following tools:

    • 3/8" drive ratchet
    • 6" extension
    • 10" extension or longer
    • 3/8 drive sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
    • 10mm offset box wrench
    • 17mm open ended wrench
    • Small spudger or pocket knife with one of those dull flathead tips
    • Needle nosed pliers
    • Philips head screwdriver
    • Flathead screwdriver
    • Upholstery tool (bent head to remove snaps or pry)
    • Baggies or cups to put bolts, nuts, and screws in
    • Second person to help you remove the dash once everything has been disconnected


    I will state again that the pictures used throughout this thread were taken years ago during my first dash removal. I have since removed and installed many more dashes and may include instructions without pictures for steps I either didn't photograph, or felt necessary to include in doing a dash removal now that I have "mastered" it.

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  3. #2
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    Let's begin!


    DSCF0022_JPG.jpg


    Remove the center armrest/console (no pic)

    Remove the two eyeball vents in the center console (the 'tombstone')

    There are numerous ways explained on removing the eyeball vents, but here's what works for me:
    Take that pocket knife dull blade/flat screwdriver tip and slide it into the 1:00 position on the left eyeball vent and pry gently toward the windshield. The vent should pop right out.

    Do the same for the right eyeball vent, but insert the tool in the 11:00 position.

    Once you have removed the eyeball vents, there is a screw behind each of the holes at the 12:00 position. Remove these.
    There is one more screw at the bottom left of the tombstone. Remove that.
    Gently pull the tombstone toward you until it comes loose, but do not pull it away without first disconnecting the Hazard/Pop-up switch harness plug

    It should now look something like this:


    DSCF0025_JPG.jpg


    The first time I did the dash removal, I also removed the radio and the HVAC panel. I have since discovered this is not necessary as long as you disconnect the antenna plug from the radio and don't mind the extra weight. If it's not too difficult to remove the radio itself, go ahead and do it, but you don't need to remove any wiring except for the antenna plug and the ground wire from the radio.

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  5. #3
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    Remove the glove box from the dash. There are two screws on the hinges at the bottom (one on each side). Do this with the glove box unlocked and closed. Once the second screw is about to come out, hold the glove box at the latch area and upon releasing the latch, it will fall out into your hands.

    Behind the glove box and towards the right, in front of the blower, you will see 3 wiring harness plugs. Two of these MUST be disconnected. I can't recall at the moment, which two, so just disconnect all three for now:


    DSCF0026_JPG.jpg


    Shift your focus over to the left of the A/C evaporator box (if equipped) and disconnect the two wires shown below from the little black 'box'. Take note which wire goes on the right (color coded).


    DSCF0027_JPG.jpg


    Each slide control on the HVAC panel moves a sheathed cable that has an eyelet on the end. This eyelet is placed around a flat metal tab or plastic tip on each of the three actuators. The sheathing itself is also secured in each area by a crimp to keep it stationary, but allowing for the cable to move inside. Gently pry the sheathed cable away from these clips, being careful not to cut your finger!

    The picture below shows the blower actuator. In addition to one of the clips mentioned above, there is also a spot above where the glove box latch is, near the dash frame where the cable is secured.


    DSCF0028_JPG.jpg


    Using the same picture as shown above, look at the left side of the picture and you will see the metal tab for the right side of the center HVAC box (white box). Follow the same instructions on removing the cable, remembering to trace back from the ring to where the cable sheathing is secured via a metal clip.


    DSCF0027_JPG.jpg


    Remove the actuator cable from the left side of the white HVAC box:


    DSCF0030_JPG.jpg

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  7. #4
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    The next thing is to remove all 6 rectangular plastic covers. There are two on each end of the dash and one on each side of the center of the dash near the knee area.

    There are two bolts on each end behind the covers. Remove them.


    DSCF0031_JPG.jpg

    There are two 14mm head bolts on each side of the center behind the covers. Remove them.

    These may be really tight, so be careful.

    Passenger Side


    DSCF0032_JPG.jpg


    Driver Side


    DSCF0034_JPG.jpg

    The next bolt location is in the top center, right up near the windshield, so you must be careful.

    First, use your spudger or dull tool to gently pry loose the square plastic cover (not shown)
    Under it, there is a 10mm head bolt. You'll need an offset box wrench to remove it, along with a little patience.


    DSCF0035_JPG.jpg

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  9. #5
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    Dash is about ready to come out. Locate two nuts near firewall at end of steering column and remove.

    This will let steering column drop. Rock dash back & forth slowly and look for harnesses to disconnect.


    pic15 DSCF0039_JPG.jpg


    View of driver's side after dash removal. Notice surface rust on steering column. A little Dremel action will take care of that. Wow, look at all the colorful wires!!


    pic16 DSCF0040_JPG.jpg

    View of HVAC system.


    pic17 DSCF0041_JPG.jpg

    Wide angle view of firewall area.


    pic18 DSCF0042_JPG.jpg

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  11. #6
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    This is the A/C unit. If you're feeling adventurous, you may want to check the innards of this while you have everything out.


    pic19 DSCF0043_JPG.jpg


    Another view of the driver's side. Notice the speedometer cable in the center of the picture. Notice the blue box? That's the airbag computer--DON'T TOUCH!!!


    pic20 DSCF0044_JPG.jpg

    The dash is out! Lying upside down so you can see it's construction.


    pic21 DSCF0045_JPG.jpg

    Here's the dash sitting upright. Notice the upper part of the dash. It is supposed to be black, not black with red highlights!!


    pic22 DSCF0046_JPG.jpg

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  13. #7
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    Rear view of the dash out of the car.


    pic23 DSCF0047_JPG.jpg

    Ground-level view of the dash from behind. [Darn, how many more pics could this guy have?


    pic24 DSCF0048_JPG.jpg

    Someone (not me) used the wrong kind of cleaner on this dash! Look at those splotches! Yuck!


    pic25 DSCF0049_JPG.jpg

    Another view of the splotchy dash. This will be rectified soon, though!!


    pic26 DSCF0050_JPG.jpg

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  15. #8
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    Yet another view of the dash that needs to be re-dyed.


    pic27 DSCF0051_JPG.jpg


    View of the pod where the instrument cluster and hood go.


    pic28 DSCF0052_JPG.jpg

    HA! This is all the wiring from a non-functional alarm system. A LOT easier to take out since access is better. Hector from http://www.RSpeed.net said I had one of those "South Florida" alarms! Argh, what a mess!


    pic29 DSCF0053_JPG.jpg

    Look at what those alarm installer jokers did. I've got to splice the starter wire back together where they had installed a starter kill relay. Fun!


    pic30 DSCF0054_JPG.jpg

    Here's where they tapped in to power for the "Xcalibur" alarm system. I've got to tape that up well.


    pic31 DSCF0055_JPG.jpg

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  17. #9
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Toolman's Avatar
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    Look at all those wires! Good thing I don't need to repair or replace any of those!


    pic32 DSCF0056_JPG.jpg

    Ahh, look at the harnesses! These are the main harnesses you will need to disconnect from the dash set in order to remove the dash. This is on the driver's side.


    pic33 DSCF0057_JPG.jpg

    Yucky, mildew laden foam within HVAC system. I hope to replace this. Gotta call Marshall!


    pic34 DSCF0058_JPG.jpg

    Yet another mildewey, nasty foam piece to be replaced.


    pic35 DSCF0059_JPG.jpg

    One more view of driver's side with steering column dropped for better access. You will need two people to remove dash. Up slowly, tilt top towards rear, then lift gently out of car. That's it!


    pic36 DSCF0060_JPG.jpg

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  19. #10
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Costa337's Avatar
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    This is a great....Thanks for the post
    I don't drive fast, I just fly slow!

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  21. #11
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Thanks for this write-up with pics.. A lot better than Alldata.

  22. #12
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I gotta say, it's not as daunting as it seems. The na6 dashboards are actually pretty easy.

  23. #13
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone RustRat's Avatar
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    Having removed every type of NA and NB dash the past year, I can say every miata dashboard is a piece of cake to remove, if you have some instructions. All have the same mounting points, similar panel configuration, similar hvac setup etc.

    Basicaly 7 bolts, 8 screws, and some clips.

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  25. #14
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    bumping this 6 year old thread because I heard on the grapevine this car might be coming back to life as a PitCrew

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  27. #15
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Great Job!!! How different is it to take out a 1997 instrument panel? Also how to do the swop over to a 1993 and earlier. The other thing I'd like to know has anyone successfully swopped out the later style lighter/switch onto an earlier none switch instrument panel?

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