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Thread: placement of the IAT sensor on a sebring/JR kit

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BlitzWing's Avatar
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    placement of the IAT sensor on a sebring/JR kit

    I've picked up a JR SC kit and I'm trying to find a good place to put the IAT sensor I got with my MS2 PNP kit

    This place seems like the most logical but I'm worried that the sensor I have is not directly in the air flow. But being just a temp sensor does it even need to be?




  2. #2
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    In the crossover tube, or after the intercooler, if you use one.

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BlitzWing's Avatar
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    Well drilling a hole in the crossover was an option but I want something clean looking that's why just boring out that hole seemed the easy choice. plus then its right next to the intake so really seems like a good place... if it does not matter that its not in the direct air flow.

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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The intake temp is going to be pretty different pre SC than post SC in the intake stream.

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BlitzWing's Avatar
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    not sure I follow. That's the dummy TB from the JR kit so its post SC basically as close to the manifold as it can be without being in the manifold itself.

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    I misunderstood. That would work. I had thought you were going to place it on/in the intake of the SC. Carry on!

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    That location seems like it would be pretty good (although there's always concern about heatsoak in the Miata engine bay, at least with the traditionally used GM sensors) but you want the element to be in the air stream. Using the current bolt hole on the side of the flange would not work unless you bore it out to countersink it quite a bit to get the sensor into the air stream. Drilling and tapping a hole just forward of that (after the nipple where the intake clamps on but before the flange) would probably be the easier solution.
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  9. #8
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BlitzWing's Avatar
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    thanks for the info I think I'll move onto my other idea. Its to drill a hole and tap the plastic crossover pipe. Should I just drill tap and use some kind of sealant/liquid gasket? if so what type?

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    I'd say it depends on what kind of plastic and how thick it is, but a liquid thread sealant (most auto parts stores will carry some form of it or another) is probably a good idea, since it's hard to say exactly how much thermal expansion of plastic vs metal will affect things. The sensor shown in the picture above looks like it's meant to be threaded against a flat surface and used with an o-ring at the base of the threads to seal it off, so if this is the case then you might opt for some red loctite and an appropriate o-ring rather than just thread sealant.

    Does that kit use the stock plastic crossover pipe? It's *probably* thick enough to thread if you're not running very high boost, but you might consider getting some scrap ABS (assuming that's what the crossover tube is made of) and cementing it to the crossover pipe to build up the thickness of the material where you want to drill and tap. The cement can be had from a hardware store (make sure it is for the correct type of plastic!), or you can make your own by dissolving a bit of scrap ABS in acetone or MEK.
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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Just an idea...maybe a custom muffler shop could replicate the crossover in metal tubing with a mandrel. IIRC, the TB bore size is 2.5". With that, you could bring them a bung for the IAT and have them weld it on there where ever you want. I am a little leery if the epoxy with hold over time.

  12. #11
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jnshk's Avatar
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    Yes, avoid epoxy. Appropriate cement only. For longevity and reliability, you want it to chemically fuse into a single piece (essentially, chemical welding), not two pieces with an adhesive layer between them.

    Also, Steve is correct that depending on your situation a metal piece might be an easier solution. I'm using some spare universal intercooler pipes and silicone elbows as a temporary crossover pipe until I get the Rotrex back on the car. Welded on a bung(s) for IAT sensor, crank case breather, and idle air. Consider wrapping it with some sort of thermal barrier though as the radiator will want to heat it up.
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