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Thread: Miata buyers Checklist

  1. #1
    Supporting Member fwdtamiya's Avatar
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    Question Miata buyers Checklist

    Yes! This is going to be kind of a mess

    Don't be distracted by the fact that you're driving the most amazing car in the world, remember that you need to put this car through it paces and make sure everything is right.
    NA - Check if the bottom of the rockers still has black paint. If it has been repainted, ask about it.
    Check for matching body panel VINs (anyone know all the locations?)
    Inspect the radiator support for bends or signs of an accident.
    Check around the trunk for signs of an accident, lift up some of that carpet and check for rust too!
    Look for corrosion around the battery (it's in the right rear of the trunk under some carpet)
    Know the difference between lifter tick and rod knock.
    If the top is down when you arrive or a hardtop is on, then put the soft top up and check for crack, rips and window condition.
    Take the car onto the highway and watch for "The 65mph shimmy" or strange vibrations.
    Make sure the headlights go up and down.
    Make sure the headlights light up.
    Make sure the brake lights work.
    Make sure the turn signals work.
    Make sure the reverse light works.
    Make sure the hazards work.
    Make sure the A/C works.
    Make sure the heat works.
    Make sure the power windows work.
    Make sure the manual windows crank up and down.
    Make sure the power mirrors work.
    Make sure the cruise control works.
    Make sure the radio works.
    Make sure the CD player (bring a cd!) works.
    Make sure the MP3 player works.
    Open EVERYTHING, don't be shy.
    Open the fuel lid and see if the owner ever cared enough to clean inside there.
    Bring a flashlight, especially if you're looking at the car at night. Shine is down into the engine bay and check for signs of oil or coolant leaks, look under the car too, even it it still has the factory black plastic shielding, you should be able to spot signs of leaks on that or other areas under the car.
    Check the "frame rails" for damage along with the rest of the underbody, as well as rust.
    Make sure the car drives straight without driver input.
    Watch for signs of a seized rear caliper, it can be common in these cars. (anyone know blatant signs for a first time miata driver?)
    See if the owner will let you check the condition of the rubber shifter boots (under the leather one), it should only be a couple screws.
    See if the owner will help you compression check the engine.
    See if the owner will let you check the spark plug condition.
    See if the owner will let you check the air filer condition.
    Check for signs of clutch slippage.

    That's all I can think of for now.

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  3. #2
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    Looks good!! That is a huge list!! Thanks Garrett !!


    Anyone want to add anything to this list?

  4. #3
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Satisaii's Avatar
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    This may seem like common sense, but do it in the daytime when you can really look at it.

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  6. #4
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Keep adding!

    Stuck this to promote a compiled, modern version of an important thread!

  7. #5
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    It is improbable to have/find/rebuild/restore a "numbers matching" NA6. Not impossible but improbable as the VIN plate for the engine is on the oil pan and not on the block. From my research, it also doesn't appear that the VIN on the tranny was stamped to match either the VIN on the firewall or the oil pan on the early NA6s. Given the relative low value of a Miata vs. an exotic car from the same era, this shouldn't be a high priority or cause for concern per se. Exceptions to every rule, of course.

    There are two versions of the '91 NA6 (in the US, at least) and there are several online resources that give the breakdown on VIN interpretation for '91 (and every other year). That said, as this is a first time buyers guide, if you are looking at a '91, check the number of holes on the crank pulley. (Every Miata older than '91.5 is a SNC)
    - 4 holes = Short Nose Crank (SNC) Opinions vary and my advice to a first time buyer, should they encounter a SNC engine, is to tell the seller they need to think about it and go do some research on the matter. To me, SNC would be a concern but maybe not a deal breaker. Maybe. That would depend on the overall car, deal, mods, etc.
    - 8 holes = Long Nose Crank (LNC) Again, opinions vary, and I happen to know of woodruff key failures with LNC motors; however, they are much less common.

    - Bring popsicle sticks to check the radiator fluid.
    - Check the oil for water/oil mix, as well as the usual dirtiness, cleanliness, etc.
    - Self-maintaining is common with these cars. Doesn't mean there aren't records kept. Ask for them.
    - Bring a long straightened out metal coat hanger. There is a drain tube in front of the rear wheels/tires on each side to drain water from around the top. Gently slide the metal coat hanger up each tube to ensure they are clean. These are supposed to be the path of least resistance for water. If the water cannot drain from these it goes where?

    On the drive:
    - Shoot for part of it in a big open parking lot so you can yank it about at low speeds to check for suspension clanks, etc. 10-15MPH and turn all the way left and then all the way right slalom style.
    - Brake check it. 35-80MPH, depending on the scenario/situation.

    For EVERY used car:
    - Ask the seller to have the car cold when you get there. Be leery of any used car that has already been warmed up when you arrive and/or you have to meet them somewhere. Just remember, the morning after you fork over your hard earned money, you get to experience what it takes to get the car to temp. Funky idle, engine vibrations, smoke?!? Older cars have a tendency to behave a bit differently when cold.
    - Bring paper towels and wipe (carefully!) the inside of the exhaust tip to check for any oil residue and/or water residue and/or any mix of the two. Should be black and dry not black and moist.
    - Ask a lot of questions with the word 'why' in them. Especially as a first time Miata buyer. For some of us certain modifications would almost be expected given the age of the car i.e. brown OEM radiator. To a first time buyer, ask a lot of questions about why something was done.
    - Finally, unless a Miata purchase is truly a whimsical purchase, try and do as much research as possible on the upfront so you are better prepared when you shop for one.
    Last edited by Stoly; 06-15-2014 at 10:11 AM.

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  9. #6
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone DK Wolf's Avatar
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    SNC failure affected only like 1% of those Miatas. Just be vigilant when inspecting the crank, but otherwise.. the odds are heavily in your favor of not having a catastrophic melt-down.
    1994 Mazda Miata, 1992 Mazda Miata Sold, 1995 Mazda Rx7 (500hp) Sold, 1999 Subaru GC8 (310hp) Sold

  10. #7
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Dont forget look under drivers side dash beside the gas pedal for dampness want to make sure no heater core leaks those things might be cheap but take half a day to replace.

  11. #8
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    True, SNC failure is rare, but well-documented. The SNC motors also have a few specialized parts that are getting harder to find.

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