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Thread: Inspired by history

  1. #106
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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    interesting idea, never heard about anything like that!

    So it started yesterday, I got the car to it's engine work home, and began removing parts. I'm slow as f*ck and it's gonna take me forever, but I'm gonna learn some of this even if it kills me. prior to this point, the most complex things i've done are a suspension swap and thermostat change in an NC ( much more of a PITA than the earlier generations)

    project.jpg

    and though it doesn't show what i've done, adding this one to show it's in good company... not shown- an NA, another wrangler, and several motorcycles.


    mikes.jpg
    Last edited by Grumpy; 02-28-2018 at 10:56 PM.

  2. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Grumpy For This Useful Post:

    Greasemonkey2000 (02-28-2018),HarryB (03-01-2018),kung fu jesus (02-28-2018),RustRat (03-01-2018),TNRooster3 (03-01-2018),tsingson (03-01-2018)

  3. #107
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Geez that is a big garage! All those cars yours?
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  4. #108
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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    only the blue miata is mine... don't think I could afford a rotary habit. LOL

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    oldgrayleather (03-01-2018)

  6. #109
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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    No picture taken today, but managed to learn a bit more, and remove a few more things. Was hoping to get the exhaust manifold off, but discovered that the cat has been welded inline, so can't disconnect there, and that joint at the end of the manifold is a biatch to get to, not to mention a bit of rust will make it harder. anyone managed to disconnect from there. or should we just cut it before the cat and remove it that way, and weld it together after?

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    oldgrayleather (03-08-2018)

  8. #110
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    If the cat is welded to the header, cut it.

    The joint at the end of the manifold? Are you referring to the bracket that attaches the manifold to the transmission?

  9. #111
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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    The "joint" that's difficult to reach/a bit rusty is circled in orange. the joint circled in blue doesn't exist. the cat has been welded in.

    miataexh.jpg

  10. #112
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    So the manifold to downpipe, that is what you circled in orange.

    It is difficult to get to and iirc, I simply unbolted the manifold and cat to midpipe and removed the manifold/downpipe as one on my na8 but think I might have separated them and removed separately on my nb1.

    If you are not reusing don't be afraid to cut bolts, etc. Even if you were with whole welding issue I would source another stock exhaust to use.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  11. #113
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Cut it. The NA6 needs the header to be rotated as you pull it up to clear the steering shaft, IIRC. It doesn't pull straight out.

  12. #114
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    So the manifold to downpipe, that is what you circled in orange.

    It is difficult to get to and iirc, I simply unbolted the manifold and cat to midpipe and removed the manifold/downpipe as one on my na8 but think I might have separated them and removed separately on my nb1.

    If you are not reusing don't be afraid to cut bolts, etc. Even if you were with whole welding issue I would source another stock exhaust to use.
    I'd love to source another but unless I can get one for free, not gonna happen. Already over budget. Lol

  13. #115
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input!

  14. #116
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    I bet you could get one for free. Hit up the different forums and put up a WTB (For free) ad and check out Craigslist. I have a na8 exhaust you could have if you were close, not that it would do you much good.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  15. #117
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The NA6 mani usually cracks where the primaries meet on top. You can see soot in there if it is, can hear it sometimes. I can watch for one if you need it. A lot of guys ditch them for aftermarket headers.

  16. #118
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Grumpy's Avatar
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    will keep that in mind Steve, will know if I need another mani once we get it removed. there doesn't appear to be any cracking at the moment. but haven't looked carefully yet. Only issue with it that I know of, is the lowest heat shield bracket snapped off when trying to remove the bolt.

  17. #119
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    That's not uncommon. Corrosion and time.

  18. #120
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    I've found that those bolts (at least in theory) are simple to find and remove, once you find the correct angle of attack. I know on the nb, one bolt was a bear to reach until I moved out from under the car, and out to the side, near the wheel well. If something seems too difficult to get at, always look for another route. Also, don't cheap out on your universal (swivel) attachments and extensions.

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