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Thread: The Long Road Back

  1. #256
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    My wife’s NB clunked in the FR, it was a perished bushing on the LCA and you could feel it through the steering wheel. The alignment was walking around because of that too.
    LCA's were replaced with aftermarket last July.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  3. #257
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    You have a clunk? I have a clunk too. Front end - driver side. I know one of the clunks on the rear passenger is due to the UCA bushing sliding backward such that the arm contacts the frame in certain conditions. I'm still trying to figure out the front driver side. It started in the past few months...but - I can't consistently make it happen. Need to get it up and start tugging at places.

  4. #258
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboedpickup View Post
    You have a clunk? I have a clunk too. Front end - driver side. I know one of the clunks on the rear passenger is due to the UCA bushing sliding backward such that the arm contacts the frame in certain conditions. I'm still trying to figure out the front driver side. It started in the past few months...but - I can't consistently make it happen. Need to get it up and start tugging at places.
    I'm hoping for me it's either the inner tie rods or the UCA's.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  5. #259
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    I'm hoping it's something straightforward since I went ahead and replaced all the bushings about 2 years ago with OEMs. So hoping for tie rods like you or maybe it's a ball joint?

    I really WANT to get the steering rack out and going urethane on those bushings, but am intimidated on pulling that out at the moment. The little ones are making me appreciate doing projects on the car that don't leave me stranded when I don't finish it in an evening (so...only interior projects these days).

  6. #260
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turboedpickup View Post
    I'm hoping it's something straightforward since I went ahead and replaced all the bushings about 2 years ago with OEMs. So hoping for tie rods like you or maybe it's a ball joint?
    Lower Ball Joints were replaced with new OEM when I did the lower control arms. At this point the only thing that hasn't been replaced would be the sway bar and steering rack bushings, along with the inner tie rods. If I bought a new set of upper arms, I'd get new bushings and ball joint included.

    Also thinking HARD about going back to OEM-style motor mounts. All this vibration is getting old FAST.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  7. #261
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Think I asked this before, but are you using OE swaybar endlinks?

    I removed those engine mounts too, just too much NVH.

  8. #262
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Think I asked this before, but are you using OE swaybar endlinks?

    I removed those engine mounts too, just too much NVH.
    Sorry, I had missed the question

    I had Supermiata endlinks, but I got rid of them when I got rid of the RB bar. One of the stock endlinks was snapped in the accident, so I got cheap aftermarket OEM-style replacements. They're going to be replaced by actual used OEM units. I'll have to try disconnecting the endlinks again and seeing if the clunk *completely* goes away.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  10. #263
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I would do that first, disconnect the bar.

  11. #264
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    I would do that first, disconnect the bar.
    I did that with the RB bar and the problem seemed to go away at first. I then noted that it would NOT move freely--even when I leaned on it with my body weight!

    It didn't seem to do it at first with the MSM bar back in the car, but it has gotten worse. I also notice it when turning off driveways (when one wheel moves at a time). Do the OEM bushings have to be lubed? I know some they explicitly say not to.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  12. #265
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Good question on the OE bushings, I don’t know.

  13. #266
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Time to start spending money!

    Priorities:


    1. Clutch Throwout/Pilot Bearing (possibly new clutch/FW, too)
    2. Upper Shock Mounts (Front)
    3. Bushings - Control Arms
    4. Figure out Audio issues - Most likely update Head Unit
    5. Seat covers for new-to-me NB2 cloth seats
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  15. #267
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Time to start spending money!

    Priorities:


    1. Clutch Throwout/Pilot Bearing (possibly new clutch/FW, too)
    2. Upper Shock Mounts (Front)
    3. Bushings - Control Arms
    4. Figure out Audio issues - Most likely update Head Unit
    5. Seat covers for new-to-me NB2 cloth seats
    Yay!

    Considerations:

    If you are splitting open the trans from the engine, replacing the clutch and rear main seal are definitely worth doing. Only case I wouldn’t replace the clutch is if it was a low-mileage unit.

    (Insulation on the underside of the trans tunnel is a good idea with the trans out.)

    Upper shock mounts, OE NB style are good.

    Control arms, I’m a fan of buying a clean, used set and doing bushings on those to eliminate down time. Sell off the old ones.

    Covers or upholstery for the seats?

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  17. #268
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    If you are splitting open the trans from the engine, replacing the clutch and rear main seal are definitely worth doing.
    Good point. Adding the insulation is a VERY good idea.

    Clutch was replaced in 2012-2013.
    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Upper shock mounts, OE NB style are good.
    Already have them. Was just trying to improve my ride quality (and maybe deal with my springs unseating at droop). Still trying to figure out the stupid clunk I've had for a while.
    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Control arms, I’m a fan of buying a clean, used set and doing bushings on those to eliminate down time. Sell off the old ones.
    Yep. Kind of what I was thinking. That said, probably still need to farm out putting bushings in the arms since I don't really have the tools to do the job.
    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Covers or upholstery for the seats?
    Back of one of the headrests has ripped and I don't know if it can be fixed (and stressed).
    Last edited by Bryan; 03-01-2020 at 02:18 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  19. #269
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  21. #270
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin View Post
    Thank goodness, it's an automatic.

    To be truthful, a guy in the Ohio Miata Owners FB group found a Rotrex LB not far from where I grew up less than a year ago. If I'd have known that would've been available, I'd have let The Tick go in a heartbeat.

    That said: my wife did say that if I decided I wanted to move on, she would be OK with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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