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Thread: My 1996 BRG NA8C Build Thread

  1. #211
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Sunrise vibes...

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:45 AM.

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  3. #212
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    When I took delivery of my MX-5, I considered myself extremely lucky to have purchased one which was straight, unmodified, original and very clean. In fact, it was probably the cleanest one I had seen in person. However, given that the car is now 21 years old, things will naturally start to wear and will eventually need replacing no matter how clean the car may seem. One of these things would be the HVAC system.

    Recently purchased a good second hand NB heater core and the heater core housing assembly from MX-5 Mania. It was a little dusty and dirty but overall in great condition. The housing assembly is the same for both the NA and NB and is a direct bolt on affair but the NB MX-5's had the aluminium heater cores compared to the copper ones that the NA's received. A few benefits of the NB aluminium heater core are that they have removable, stronger metal hoses as they detach at the base of the heater core itself whereas the NA's copper heater cores were one unit, pipes and all. This means that theoretically you wouldn't need to remove your dash to change the heater core should it fail later on as you can just take the core out from the housing assembly, replace it with a new aluminium core and just re-use the pipes (however, I'd still probably take it all out just to be sure even if it may be a pain in the ass to do. Good opportunity for a clean). Also, the ends of the NA heater core pipes are copper and are quite soft, which means they can bend easily and get damaged which may result in coolant leaks.

    I took this opportunity to give the housing assembly a good clean, wiping off all the dust, dirt and bits of nature it had accumulated during its time. I also got rid of the brittle old foam from the flaps and the assembly surround, cleaned the adhesive residue it left behind and replaced it with brand new foam. It came up very nicely if I do say so myself. Looking at how dirty this was, I can only imagine just how filthy the current one is. Although it's currently working fine and nothing is leaking, for the time being I might circulate some water through my existing heater core to flush out any grime and gunk.

    The dash will have to come out for me to install this full assembly with the new NB heater core but I will be installing it together with my A/C retrofit when the time comes. Since the dash is going to come out, it will also give rise to other things which I will be doing at the same time such as thermal insulation/sound deadening in the chassis, giving the carpets some treatment, fixing and cleaning up any loose wiring and sanding and painting the metal dash bar as it will most likely have surface rust.

    NB Heater core and housing assembly. Notice the amount of crap accumulated behind the mesh.



    NB heater core metal pipes.





    Foam inside the assembly. You can see that it has started to deteriorate. When you run your fingers through the foam it flakes off. Time to replace it!



    Closeup of the mesh and the bits of leaves and other crap.



    The brown foam needs replacing. The surrounding foam could also do with a refresh.





    Surrounding foam removed.



    Dirty mesh filter. Some hot soapy water was needed to clean this. Before...



    ...and after. Much better!



    Old foam removed and ready for the new foam.



    Surrounds and flaps re-foamed. Mesh filter and housing assembly all cleaned.



    Close up of new foam for the flaps and surrounds.







    Ready to install.





    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:46 AM.

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  5. #213
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone RustRat's Avatar
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    That's one job I intend to do myself, too. Didn't know you could use the NB unit.


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  7. #214
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    That's something I also want to do one day, so far I have only done the fan assembly, since it was much easier to access. What type of foam did you use?

    P.S. I will have something coming your way soon

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  9. #215
    Supporting Member fwdtamiya's Avatar
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    I would very much like to clean out my NA a/c box and replace all the foam too. It looks like a long process though.

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  11. #216
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustRat View Post
    That's one job I intend to do myself, too. Didn't know you could use the NB unit.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yep! The assembly itself should be pretty much identical to the NA's as all the holes will line up in the firewall when you take the dash out. The NB core is the same as the NA except one is made from copper/brass and the other is aluminium.

    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    That's something I also want to do one day, so far I have only done the fan assembly, since it was much easier to access. What type of foam did you use?

    P.S. I will have something coming your way soon
    Hey Harry. I just used some multi purpose open cell foam strip that you can buy from any hardware shop. It's inexpensive and it has the adhesive already on it so it should pop straight on over where the original foam used to be. Just needs to be trimmed to size.

    Cant wait for that part! Should be good!

    Quote Originally Posted by fwdtamiya View Post
    I would very much like to clean out my NA a/c box and replace all the foam too. It looks like a long process though.
    Yeah its tedious, but well worth it in my opinion, especially if you are going to have the dash out.

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  13. #217
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Recently, I was asked by "Club Torque" (a quarterly magazine of the Mazda MX-5 Club of NSW) if they could use the sunrise photo I took last month at Palm Beach as the cover for their 2017 summer edition. I happily obliged and I think it came out great!

    The magazine is both printed on high quality gloss paper and available online in PDF format and it has the latest reports on club events such as meets, drive days, social events, motorsports as well as media releases, tech tips, etc. The online version can be found here :

    http://nsw.mx5.com.au/club-zone/magazine

    Many thanks to Mel Keller, editor of the magazine.

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:47 AM.

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  15. #218
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    I decided to replace the rear tail lamp gaskets. The gaskets for these tail lamps become brittle and can fail over time simply due to age which would compromise the seal and a failed gasket which isn't sealed properly can mean that water could make its way into the boot, which would then be a breeding ground for rust. Sure enough, the gaskets were old and crusty but it didn't look all that bad. They held up quite well as I've seen far worse. I replaced with OEM parts and it's now good as new for at least the next 20 years.

    Decided to remove the centre number plate garnish as well and give everything a good clean behind there as there would have been a lot of dirt and dust accumulated behind the garnish over time. Removing it was pretty straight forward. Just a couple of 10mm nuts to unscrew and a couple of plastic clips holding the garnish in place. Some warm soapy water, all purpose cleaner and degreaser along with some elbow grease and it came up looking awesome.

    Old OEM gaskets VS new OEM gaskets.



    As you can see, the gasket is still in pretty good condition but it has started to become old and brittle on the left side of the gasket.



    Old passenger side gasket.



    Centre number plate garnish and tail lamps removed. Pretty filthy.



    Some rags, warm soapy water, all purpose cleaner and degreaser and a plastic scraper was used to bring it back to factory fresh condition.



    Fresh and clean, ready for the new gasket.





    Tail lamps were also given a good clean.

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:47 AM.

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  17. #219
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    This is greatly satisfying to my OCD

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  19. #220
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Went for a little drive today since it's been a while that I've had the car out and about due to all the rain we've had over the past month (constant rain/shit weather for the full month of March and the last 2 weeks of February).

    Felt good to just get the car out and drive



    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:48 AM.

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  21. #221
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Late night drives...

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:49 AM.

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  23. #222
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Before.



    Comparison.



    After.

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:49 AM.

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  25. #223
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    ENGINE & TRANSMISSION
    - Advanced Cam Timing +14 Degrees
    - Arrive Intake Pipe
    - Beatrush Radiator Cooling Panel
    - GarageStar Lightweight Alternator Pulley
    - GarageStar Lightweight Water Pump Pulley
    - Gates Racing Performance Timing Belt
    - Koyorad 36mm Hyper-V Core Aluminium Radiator
    - Mazdaspeed Ignition Leads
    - Mazdaspeed Induction Box
    - Mazdaspeed Oil Cap
    - Mazdaspeed Panel Air Filter
    - Mazdaspeed Radiator Cap (1.3 Bar)
    - MiataRoadster Short Shifter
    - NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
    - OEM Mazda Intake Manifold (Satin Black)
    - OEM Mazda Rocker Cover (Satin Black)
    - Toda Racing Lightweight Flywheel (4.5kg)
    - Toda Racing Sports Clutch + Spigot Ring
    - Samco Silicone Coolant Hoses


    SUSPENSION & HANDLING
    - Beatrush Rear Strut Brace
    - GarageStar Delrin Door Mounts
    - Mazdaspeed Engine Mounts
    - Mazdaspeed Front Strut Brace
    - Ohlins DFV Coilovers
    - RacingBeat Sway Bar End Links (F+R)


    WHEELS, BRAKES & TYRES
    - Dixcel Type M Brake Pads (F+R)
    - Dixcel Type SD Slotted Rotors (F+R)
    - Goodridge SS Braided Brake Lines
    - Goodridge SS Braided Clutch Line
    - H&R TRAK+ 5mm Spacers (54.1 Hubcentric)
    - Pirelli Cinturato P1 Tyres (185/60/R14)
    - RS-Watanabe Type-A (14x6.5 +4.5 Final Offset)
    - RS-Watanabe Centre Caps
    - RS-Watanabe Lug Nuts
    - RS-Watanabe Valve Stems


    EXTERIOR
    - B1 Hybrid Polarg Parkers and Tail Lamp Bulbs
    - Bosch Aerotwin Wiper Blades
    - Depo Clear Front Indicator Lamps
    - Front Number Plate Mounting Bracket
    - JDM Eunos Fog Lights
    - KG Works Chrome Washer Nozzles
    - Nielex Fuse Box Sticker
    - NoPro Washer Bottle Relocation
    - OEM Mazda Genuine Front Lip
    - Philips 4300K Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
    - Raybrig Crystal Reflector Headlamps
    - Runabout M2 Mirrors
    - ZOOM Engineering Amber Side Indicators
    - ZOOM Engineering Eunos Lotus Emblem
    - ZOOM Engineering Retro Fuel Lid


    INTERIOR
    - Arrive Mahogany Wood Handbrake Handle
    - Carbing DASH Foot Rest Pedal
    - HKB Boss Kit
    - J-F Customs Tan Leather Gearshift Boot
    - J-F Customs Tan Leather Handbrake Boot
    - JASS Performance Sun Visor Plugs
    - JDM Eunos Sunglass Holder
    - JDM Eunos Chrome Door Sills
    - Joyfast Chrome Gear Knob (Super Short)
    - Joyfast Chrome Handbrake Button
    - Nakamae Cup Holder
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Belt Line Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Lower Package Tray Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Side Step Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Transmission Tunnel Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Upper Package Tray Trim
    - Nakamichi CD400 Headunit
    - Nardi Classico 360mm Wood Steering Wheel
    - Nardi Tokyo Horn Button
    - OEM Mazda 93LE Speaker Grilles
    - OEM Mazda Silver Tweeters
    - RevLimiter Gloss Black Vent Rings
    - RevLimiter Retro Window Switch
    - RevLimiter "Type MX-5" BRG Door Sill Inserts
    - RS Products Classic Retro Cluster
    - RS Products Classic Retro Switch
    - Vintage Mazda Chrome Cigarette Lighter
    - Zeromotive M2-1002 Style Pedals


    MAINTENANCE/OEM REPLACEMENT/MISC
    - Carbon Canister Delete
    - Front Tie Down Hooks Removed
    - Reconditioned Fuel Line Metal Shroud
    - Reconditioned Wiper Arms
    - OEM Mazda Camshaft Seal Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Coolant Overflow Tank Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Crankshaft Seal Replacement
    - OEM Mazda External Tensioner Belt Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Fuel Filter Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Idler Bearings Replacement
    - OEM Mazda NA6 Oil Pressure Sender Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Panasonic Battery Replacement (Replaced 28/07/2016)
    - OEM Mazda PCV Valve Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Deck Fuel Line Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Deck Fuel Pump Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Parcel Shelf Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rocker Cover Gasket Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Shifter Insulation Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Latch Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Latch End Cap Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Striker Plate Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Thermostat Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Third Brake Light Gasket Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Timing Lower Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Timing Upper Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Water Pump Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Coolant Auxiliary Hoses Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Heater Hose Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Heater Hose Grommet Replacement


    28/05/2017

    Minor Service + Engine Detox + Coolant Hose Replacements
    Winter is coming...as is the new season of Game of Thrones. But I digress. Autumn will be officially over in a few days and we've been having some gorgeous weather lately, so why not do some DIY before it gets too cold for your hands to do any sort of work on the car?

    Last time I serviced the car was about seven months ago and although it had only done about 4,500kms since October last year, I decided to do a minor service by changing out the oil and oil filter as well install my Samco silicone coolant hoses. Before I did all this though, I decided to do an engine flush and clean so that it could get rid of any sludge and gunk that the internals may have housed for the past twenty one years. I used some Subaru upper engine cleaner, which contains a foaming agent similar to seafoam that cleans carbon deposits from the induction system and combustion chamber of the engine and I also used LiquiMoly Engine Detox, which is an oil additive that is meant to remove deposits and residues from all internal engine components including the piston rings whereby solid particles and liquid contaminants are isolated and allowed to freely drain with the old engine oil.

    The upper engine cleaner was the first on the list. Spray half the can into the intake manifold of the car and let it sit for about five minutes or so before turning the car back on. I turned the engine on and sprayed the rest of the can into the manifold while the car was running. Gave it a few revs so that the car wouldn't stall and let it idle and smoke out before going for a short drive to clear out any of the remaining foam in the chamber until the exhaust stopped billowing the white smoke everywhere. It worked quite well I think. Apparently it's meant to give a smoother idle, better acceleration and better fuel economy. Time will tell if this is true or not.

    Next was the LiquiMoly Engine Detox. This is added to the existing engine oil prior to the oil change. Mine was barely 5,000kms old but have seen oil which was 500kms old with this added and it came out nice and black. Instructions were simple enough again. Pour the whole content of the can in the oil filler hole, turn the car on and let it idle for 20 minutes. Then, drain the oil and replace the oil filter. The oil being drained was pretty black with the additive seemingly doing it's job.

    I was also going to do a radiator flush but as the coolant was draining from the radiator, it didn't seem like it needed it. The radiator cap was still very clean and no evidence of any grime or sludge on it or the radiator so I decided to leave it for now and do it if and when I actually need to in future.

    I needed to change my radiator hoses as well. When I first got the car back in late 2015, I decided to do a full major service and as a part of that, change all the old crusty rubber hoses to silicone. I should have went with my gut and bought some Samco silicone hoses but I decided to get a silicone hose kit by Carbon Miata. Big mistake. I always try and live by the mantra "do it once, do it right" and this usually means buying parts which may be considered expensive at the time of purchase but will save money later as what you bought would be a quality part and would very rarely fail and you wouldn't have to keep spending money on the same part by replacing it had you purchased an inferior or non quality part. The Carbon Miata hoses were basically Samco silicone hose copies and as such, they probably weren't produced with the same strict quality controls that I know the Samco ones are adhered to. This lack of QC showed because after running these hoses for just over a year (fourteen months to be exact), the coolant was already eating into the hoses and was failing. When I noticed this (which was about five months ago) I decided to just get some genuine Samco hoses and was ready to replace it all. The Carbon Miata silicone hose kit changes the three large coolant hoses, four smaller coolant auxiliary hoses and the two heater hoses. The three large hoses I changed to genuine Samco silicone hoses and I managed to change two of the four smaller auxiliary coolant hoses to OEM Mazda hoses. These were the throttle body to thermostat housing hose and the thermostat bypass hose. The other two hoses which is located on the intake side (i.e the back of engine to oil cooler hose and oil cooler to throttle body hose) are still the Carbon Miata items but I couldn't access them without taking off the intake manifold so I left it for now. I have the OEM Mazda hose replacement for these two ready to go but it will have to wait for another day.

    As part of the kit, the Carbon Miata silicone hoses also came with silicone heater hoses (which again, were failing). Like the auxiliary hoses, I decided to revert back to genuine OEM Mazda rubber heater hoses with brand new grommets. The grommets were not changed last time as I didn't have them with me and the ones on the car looked fine, i.e no cracks. This time around though I had new grommets so I decided to change them out. Once I started prying the old ones out, the rubber grommets basically disintegrated as they were quite brittle. I was so glad to be changing them to fresh new OEM parts.
    Overall, it all went well and the car feels good as ever to drive. It needs a wash as it hasn't had one in about a month so there is a thin layer of dust on the paint. Plan to wash it some time this week before I take it out for a long overdue drive...

    Subaru upper engine cleaner to clean out the carbon deposits from the induction system and combustion chamber.



    LiquiMoly Engine Detox. Oil additive meant to remove deposits and residues from all internal engine components including the piston rings whereby solid particles and liquid contaminants are isolated and allowed to freely drain with the old engine oil.



    4,500km old oil + engine detox solution. Result? Very black.



    HKS Hybrid oil filter. Replaced this with a genuine OEM Mazda filter. Might go back to HKS in future but honestly, for a road car you won't notice the difference between this and OEM.



    LiquiMoly Air Flow sensor cleaner. Did a bit of a clean on the MAF whilst the airbox was out.



    Carbon Miata silicone hose. You can see that the hose started to fail as the coolant was eating into the hose. Who knows how much longer it would have stood up until it split or leaked?



    Another angle. Should have gone with Samco from the beginning...



    Glad to be rid of this.



    Everything off, ready for some OEM Mazda and Samco goodies.



    Genuine Samco silicone hoses VS Carbon Miata knock off copies.



    OEM Mazda coolant auxiliary hoses.



    OEM Mazda heater hoses with grommets.



    In the bin you go!



    Old heater hose grommet VS new heater hose grommet.

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 09:10 AM.

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  27. #224
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! benpopham's Avatar
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    Incredible attention to detail as always, your engine bay always impresses me. How is it so clean!?

    You changing all the covers on your rear parcel shelf inspired me last week, I changed all the heat shields under the Roadster, all shiny now.

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  29. #225
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by benpopham View Post
    Incredible attention to detail as always, your engine bay always impresses me. How is it so clean!?

    You changing all the covers on your rear parcel shelf inspired me last week, I changed all the heat shields under the Roadster, all shiny now.
    Thanks mate! It looks clean there but it actually needed some elbow grease after the minor service just to clean it up a bit since there was overspray residue and little bits of dust and dirt. Gave her a wash today and she's back to being in good condition both inside and out!

    Awesome work with the heat shield! When you say under the car, do you mean the transmission tunnel? I'm assuming you did this when you swapped out your exhaust?

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