Great job!
Will be under 900 kg?
Great job!
Will be under 900 kg?
It's going to be 80°F today where I live. Unfortunately, the Miata project is still hibernating in a cold, unheated, non-insulated garage in upstate NY. So instead I am acquiring more parts, tools and knowledge so that we can work on it when warmer spring weather permits.
I wasn't really happy with the compromises we had to make with the air filter position in order to clear the hard AC lines, hood, coolant reroute hose and other underhood components. The packaging is all very tight in that area. So I've decided to take the road less traveled. It is a costly, complicated and challenging road but it should get me to where I want to go. I've ordered a new air filter base plate and I will make a custom coolant reroute hard pipe and custom AC lines to replace the OEM hard lines so that I can get the clearance I need to position my air filter in a better location. This will also help immensely if/when I upgrade to a cold air box further down the road. Most people don't have this clearance problem as they either don't have the coolant reroute or they delete AC at the same time they install ITBs (because racecar) but keeping AC was a project requirement.
^^^ get the aluminum 18JC50 blank plate. It's much easier to drill than the powdercoated steel plate.
The AC system was professionally evacuated prior to pulling the old 1.6 motor out and left with a partial vacuum inside. It was converted to R-134a a few years back with a new compressor, drier, adapter fittings, etc. so the system is in good shape and I intend to keep it that way. To make the custom AC lines using Aeroquip EZ-Clip system fittings and hoses, I must first undo the fittings on the existing AC hard lines and measure them. Because the AC system is sealed, anytime you open the system you risk introducing contaminants such as moisture and non-condensible items. As such, you should limit the amount of time the system is spent open to the atmosphere and then after the repairs are made you should draw a deep vacuum on the entire system to remove the contaminants prior to refilling with the correct type and amount of refrigerant and oil.
Accordingly, I purchased a used JB Industries Platinum DV-200N vacuum pump and a new CPS Products MA1234 Pro-Set Manifold A/C Gauge Set with Hoses. With these two tools you can perform most routine auto AC system diagnostics and repairs.
I went a bit overboard on the vacuum pump but I figure better to have more tool than you need rather than less. It's no lightweight at 31lbs. It's made in the USA, supposed to last a lifetime, has the best reputation on the market, repair parts are widely available and I saved more than 1/2 compared to buying new. It's designed for professional HVAC techs to pull a deep vacuum on auto and residential/commercial AC systems and is rated for continuous use. I also plan on using it for vacuum bagging some future composite projects or maybe vacuum resin infusion process. I ordered a few replacement parts to refurbish it: feet, handle w/ safety cap so it doesn't leak oil during transport, o-rings and 2 quarts of compressor oil (special type of mineral oil that gets changed after every use). I found instructions online that talk about flushing the pump to get all the old oil and contaminants out. I ordered 2 quarts of the special JB vacuum pump oil. Hopefully it will be enough.
Initially I was planning to purchase a micron gauge to measure how well the vacuum is working (better than guessing), some hoses and fittings to connect the vacuum gauge to the pump and/ AC system. Well I decided to get the AC manifold gauges instead of the micron gauge. The AC manifold gauges will simplify hooking up the vacuum pump to the car's AC system and it has a composite gauge on the low pressure side that reads vacuum, although not to the same level of detail or accuracy as the micron gauge. From my research, very few auto AC techs use the micron gauge. Heck, few residential/commercial/refrigeration techs use it either. It's an advanced tool for advanced users and costs $150+. Maybe another day....
Here are some pictures of coolant hard pipes I've seen on the web. Feel free to post other trick setups you've seen. Thoughts on aluminum pipe vs. stainless, clamps should I try this new Gates Power Grip heat shrink clamp?
This last post is of particular interest to me, as I've been looking at filter options for my to-be-installed Jenvey setup. I've read 90mm horns will fit, but will a 100mm (430x140x100) filter clear everything? I too, hope to retain A/C for future Florida and XC road trips.
Not running a coolant re-route at this point, either... but I'll be happy someone charted a path for me to follow if ever I do.
I love your car, attention to detail and simplicity. Great stuff. -Matt
Thanks for the compliments. I probably can't help you with the Jenvey stuff as I suspect the angle and overall length of the Jenvey manifold, throttle bodies and air horns will be different than what I've got. I'm running the JC50/75 and it's a tight fit. I believe Quinn is running the JC50/100 on his NB with the TWM standard 35mm length air horns. Wildo is running a massive JC50/150 on his NA with 100mm long air horns.
This car will look perfect and clean with a hotside reroute. Here are pictures of my reroute, it is for sale.
and the front support
Last edited by Hyper; 03-09-2016 at 06:53 PM.
Phatmiata (06-28-2016)
Dave737 (05-06-2016),kung fu jesus (05-06-2016),tsingson (05-06-2016)
The only reason I can not use it in my present set up is because I am have a crossflow radiator. Good luck with your present configuration I am sure you will figure out something cool.
Last edited by Hyper; 03-09-2016 at 08:44 PM.
Vacuum pump has been refurbished with new base, handle and exhaust cap and intake caps. Gave it an oil change and a good cleaning overall. Had one massive fail where the unit was accidentally switched on while tipped to the side and it spit about 1/2 pint of mineral oil all over my face, workbench, toolbox, walls and floor making a huge mess. Lesson learned: don't ever work on tools that are still plugged in.
Setup a test rig to see if this thing can pull a vacuum. It works when tested on the workbench, pulls ~29.9" mercury, which is a good sign that this thing will work in real life.
Eventually I plan to mount the pump to a hand truck or possibly a wooden carryall and plumb in a vacuum reservoir and vacuum switch so that it runs more efficiently when I'm doing composites work. Basically I'm building a DIY version of what you can buy commercially for a lot less money.
http://www.acpsales.com/Vacuum-Bagging-Systems.html
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Still chipping away at this. Whenever you deviate from stock you've got to get creative with plumbing and problem solving. For instance, a few years ago my AC was converted from R12 to R134a and there is a 90° adapter fitting screwed onto the original low-pressure suction pipe that goes from the evaporator under the dash to another hose that goes to the AC compressor. That fitting interferes with my air filter and has to be moved as keeping the AC intact and functioning was a project prerequisite. And until the air filter is positioned properly, I am reluctant to finalize the routing of the fuel hoses, coolant reroute return hose and electrical wiring.
Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with expert brazing skills who could modify my existing hard pipe. And oh, by the way, it's no longer available new and finding a used replacement pipe is a bit of a crap shoot. I think at Planet Miata they just have these giant 55 gallon barrels filled with all years of AC hard pipes they've taken off so you've got to know exactly what you're looking for. A decision was made to make a custom AC hose to replace that low-pressure suction pipe.
To figure out what was needed, the system was evacuated and then taken apart and measured.
I was originally hoping to make my own AC hoses using the Eaton Aeroquip EZ-Clip system fittings as they have some trick stuff like 90° fittings with integrated charge ports. Unfortunately, they don't supply the required metric fittings.
There are no AC professionals locally where the car is being worked on who can make custom hoses. On top of that, the car is inoperable at the moment so I can't take the car to a specialist if I wanted to. Because the AC pipes create an interference condition that prevents me from finishing my ITB install, I don't want the AC system to remain open to the atmosphere while I dicker around getting the car running. Fortunately, a guy on the V8 Miata website recommended another outfit in FL who make custom AC hoses. After much researching and phone calls and emails back and forth with my dad and several drawings we came up with this:
The stock washer bottle is now gone freeing up much needed room in the engine bay. So the idea is that the new hose will come out of the firewall and then point downwards and be clocked at 8 o'clock (away from the engine) and then loop back towards the engine in a gentle S-curve as it heads towards the front of the car and then down towards the front sway bar where it connects to the rest of the system. Fingers crossed that we got it right the first time. It's never easy building this stuff off-site.
Greasemonkey2000 (05-05-2016),HarryB (05-05-2016),NCGreasemonkey (05-05-2016),Phatmiata (05-05-2016),tsingson (05-06-2016)
Here's an idea of how some of the V8 Miata guys have done it. Instead of coming straight off the firewall, mine is going to bend down and away from the motor before looping back. Here's hoping there is enough flex in the 1" OD, 0.5" ID #10 barrier AC hose to do that. I really would have preferred a 45° fitting at the firewall but none was available.
Operation: I want Air Conditioning in my LS!
Demon I Am (05-05-2016),NCGreasemonkey (05-05-2016),tsingson (05-06-2016)
I went to a friend's workshop and he helped me bend up some 1.25x0.065 aluminum 6061-T6 tubing for some prototype coolant hard pipe to replace the really long rubber return hose with internal spring that ships with the M-tuned coolant reroute kit. The hose can be a pain to fit onto the radiator with the internal spring that keeps the hose from collapsing. And once again, packaging was a bit tricky as the flexy rubber hose could rub against the throttle bodies, alternator, fuel hoses, and/or body, which would wear a hole through and create a leak. You don't want a completely rigid setup, either, as vibration would tear it apart. So a decision was made to bend some custom tubing in the hopes of making a coolant return pipe that would ease packaging around the throttle bodies at the expense of adding joints that could potentially leak.
It was a bit of a gamble bending thin wall aluminum as it can wrinkle, distort and even tear depending on the centerline radius and bend angle. Using annealed tubing would be best as it is soft and bends easily but that is really hard to come buy and ought to be be heat treated afterwards. 6061 T6, on the other hand, is rather ubiquitous. The only way to find out if it would bend was to try it. My friend converted the sketch into CAD and did all the figuring. Then we bent up two of them with slight variations and kept two tubes as spares in case these don't work out. There was some slight ovaling at the bend but nothing to worry about. Flow rate will not be impacted. I will trim the ends to the correct length as I fit them to the car and I will also roll a bead in each end to keep the hose clamps from slipping off using my Earl's EZ Beader tool, which is rather a one-trick pony but way cheaper than buying a slip roller or tube bead roller with the correct dies.
My hose clamps got soul! If they didn't they wouldn't be in here! Murray Corporation make these trick constant tension stainless steel hose clamps that keep your hoses from leaking whether hot or cold without having to crank down on them super tight. They're also lined so they don't cut into the soft radiator hose, either.
etikoner (05-08-2016),Greasemonkey2000 (05-05-2016),HarryB (05-05-2016),NCGreasemonkey (05-05-2016),Phatmiata (06-28-2016),tsingson (05-06-2016)
Much thanks to Adam (ada) at Bay Area Miata Drivers for the inspiration.