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Thread: Steering wheel swap: Can;t get horn to work!

  1. #1
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch MX595's Avatar
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    Steering wheel swap: Can;t get horn to work!

    So upon swapping out the stock wheel, I faced some unanticipated issues.

    When I took off the wheel, I found the the stock hub with the wire harnesses for the air bag and horn. This is wired into the car, and no harness can be located to take it off.

    I assume these wire harnesses are the reason my horn won't work on the new wheel.

    Any suggestions on how to take it out, or manipulate it to suit my needs?

    Pics are posted below
    20140906_120757.jpg
    20140906_120828.jpg

  2. #2
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch MX595's Avatar
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    any suggestions or information would be great, even a fuse number or name of the part would be incredibly helpful

  3. #3
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    that is the clock spring you are looking at (with the yellow label) also called the Turn Signal Canceling ring

    Note the position of the assembly and the two protruding nylon "points" that are used to cancel the turn signals. These two protrusions should be at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions when the wheels are pointing straight ahead. There is also a marker at the 12 o'clock position on the ring. Try not to disturb the position of this assembly more than is absolutely necessary. Rotating it somewhat during the trimming of the clockspring connector through which the airbag and horn wires pass (riveted to the assembly at 6 o'clock on its face) is inevitable, but don't let it rotate more than necessary or it may be difficult to re-center it so that the turn signals will work properly. If you move it, put it back straight as often as is required to keep it from rotating too far. Directions for re-centering the assembly, should it get out of whack, are on the unit.

    On the ring there are three wires that come out of a rectangular black plastic connector riveted onto the turn signal canceling ring. They are secured with a strain relief tie-wrap. Both the tie-wrap and the plastic protrusion it's tied to need to be cut off. The remaining plastic connector is riveted onto the face of the canceling ring. In order to minimize the amount of metal material that needs to be removed from the back of the adapter hub, it is necessary to shave, file, sand, or cut as much black plastic material from around this 3-wire connector assembly as possible. The idea is to reduce the cross-sectional area of the plastic so as little as possible (width, length, and height) will protrude into the back of the MOMO adapter hub. Lay a towel down in the seat to catch all the little black plastic filings. Lay several towels while you're at it; plastic filings will be flying EVERYWHERE once you start this step. Also roll some masking tape into long, thin, sticky-side-out tubes and lay them along the lower edge of the turn signal canceling ring to prevent small pieces of shaved plastic from getting down into the steering hub area. The plastic connector around the wires is actually a two-piece affair. Use a Dremel tool (cutting wheel) to cut carefully around the base of the outer piece and remove it. You can then use diagonal cutters to carefully trim away the excess material at the outer edges of the inner piece. BE CAREFUL NOT TO NICK OR SEVER THE WIRES!

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  5. #4
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch MX595's Avatar
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    Thank you for the response

    Is it necessary to place the clock spring behind the replacement hub?

    As of now the turn signal cancel still works without issue

    Getting the horn to correctly work is proving to be an issue

  6. #5
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    I used a nrg hub. The metal ring inside of the nrg hub is removed and where the wire is run you now put your horn wire from the clock spring through. I broke the black plastic clip on my clockspring enough to where I could fold it on its side. Then I saudered the two air bag wires to a canceler and hot glued it all to the clockspring . My horn works my steering wheel works and my turn signals cancel when they should. The sell hubs that you can use and not have to destroy your clockspring. So what kind of hub are you using on your wheel ?

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    MX595 (09-06-2014),Phatmiata (09-06-2014)

  8. #6
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch MX595's Avatar
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    I have an NRG short hub

    Any more info on the air bag cancel? The blinking light is quite annoying

    I think I understand how to get the horn working with your explanation

    Any trick to removing the metal ring from the hub? And which wires are the horn wires? (color ect?)

    Thank you so much for the assistance

  9. #7
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    you can make, or buy a resistor for the blinking light, or just pull out that lightbulb.

  10. #8
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    I bought my cancel wires on ebay for 12.00 I think. Its been a cpl of weeks so I dont remember what wires they were but it comes with instructions. And on that hub you just kinda pry it out. Its not needed so dont be afraid. You can stick a screwdrive in hole on other side and pop it out that way as well.

    Also no matter how hard I tried I could not get wheel lined up 100% strait it was off by what felt like half a spline so when you get it installed if you dont feel like messing with it go get an alignment afterwards and they can fix it. I have a 3 year alignment so it was free for me.

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