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    Idling - Listen to it purr... wow's Avatar
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    Twin Supercharged V8 Miata
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    Las Vegas, Nevada
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Twin Supercharged V8 Mazda Miata!

    This, my friends, is my build thread. Hope you enjoy.

    A little introductory of myself.
    My name is Shawn Prince. I am 25 years old. I am residing in Las Vegas, Nevada.
    Many of you know me for lighting myself on fire on Youtube when i first tried to start my v8 powered Miata; However, that did not stop me from building my dream. I finished the NA miata. I drove it for a bit then blew it up at the track. I spun a rod bearing, but again, that did not stop me. My buddy and i rebuilt it stronger to make it last a little while longer. The engine is a crate engine; H.O Chevy 350/330hp. The fire from the video is the whole reason why i said peace out to the carb and snagged a fuel injection setup. The setup is not the best, but it does it's job and it's tunable.
    Anyways, with the rebuilt engine, the car ran solid at the track [mechanically sound], but i was having fuel issues. The car has the oem 1.8 differential so the gearing on it sucks. It can spin 225's through 4th gear. This is something that i need to change pretty soon. I plan to get a thunderbird 8.8 with a 2.8 ratio during this build.
    I am not the richest man nor the greatest fabricator. I am sitting on $12/hour while paying for a house, gf, cat, dog and everything that comes with it using a $100 flux-core welder. One of these days i will catch a break, but until then, i will make due with what i got. The welder is not "shitty" or "bad", it's just messy and requires some clean-up.

    With that being said, let's begin!
    It was DEFINITELY a budget build.

    Shell - $150
    Subframes and control arms - $300 for front and rear
    Used SBC engine - FREE - traded a built 1.6 shortblock for it.
    Junkyard GM 94 camaro wct5 trans from v6 - $150 -(Can also use Ford t5 with different trans mount)(GM has 16* rotation on their t5 vs Fords straight 0*)

    New 153t Camaro flywheel
    New 10.5" Camaro clutch
    Jeep cj5? Or cj7 bellhousing with clutch fork and throwout bearing [can also bolt onto Mustang t5]
    ^^^ This combo was about $600 pieced all together by yours truly.

    Stock miata hydraulics
    Custom driveshaft from Drivetrain Services - $400
    Camaro tpi fuel pump modified to miatas housing - $80
    94 TBIi from GMC Sierra - $75
    Deleted useless stuff from pcm such as auto trans and a/c
    Wired myself
    Stock miata 1.8 diff welded
    Modified my subframe to cradle the v8
    Cut trans tunnel for bellhousing to clear
    Added a bracket to my rear diff so i dont have to run a ppf and also have a driveline hydraulic brake attatched to it
    Stubby starter for clearance - $30
    3/8 fuel line - $25
    eBay radiator - $200
    Race buckets - FREE - from older beat up nb
    Misc stuff such as brakes, clutch hydraulics, sheet metal, steel tubing, wiring etc $300

    not bad for a little under $2500 besides cosmetics :]

    I did 100% of the work by myself. This was the very first car that i have built.










    so with this being said, it's time to start building a different car, one with a roll cage and better fabrication done to it BECAUSE the other one was not cutting it. i am absolutely disgusted that i did this. [see pic below]


    I picked up a caged mazdaspeed miata shell from alex at 2nd Chance Roadster. SUPERB work. The smile that this thing put on my face. Now i can finally drift competitively with other people. The goal with this car is to try to keep it as much intact as i can so it has a little bit of weight for some grip and hopefully with it being "close" to stock, i'll be able to sell it later on down the road so it will be a win/win situation.





    I immediately started chopping the necessary things so i can transfer my whole power-train over. Got it good enough, then began fabricating up a new transmission tunnel. 1st time was a learning experience, 2nd time will be perfection; but yet i still have this flux-core welder. owell, i learned to work with it and now it isn't half bad...... i invested in some decent wire and it made a huge difference.








    I still have ALOT more grinding and welding to do on the trans tunnel, but it came out 100 times better than version 1.
    It's amazing how much you can learn after doing something 1 time.

    i am also converting to a v-belt & serpentine belt setup [from older chevy's] to be able to run the blowers.





    I welded the whole underside so there will be no penetration issues with this welder and I started laying some body filler so it looks good and will hopefully be able to sell the car later on. Still tons of bodywork to go though.







    I also tac welded plates in the driver compartment on the firewall to patch the wholes that I won't be using.



    I decided to spray some primer to see where the filler is off........ not too shabby for the first time around.



    It came out far from perfect, but far from bad too. I think im done with the underside now. I know there's imperfections but its good enough, i can always give it some love later on.



    Now it's time to start on the inside and get to working on the engine.

    Even though i am not religious and don't really believe in god, he sure did bless me with a junkyard find; and i thank him for it.







    I'm going to run twin Eaton m90's from a Ford Thunderbird Supercoupe. Together, they SHOULD put out around 18psi and put the miata around 450whp.
    It's going to be ran on e85 with water/meth injection. It's going to be intercooled too; not by the Supercoupes intercooler, but by an aftermarket unit with 2 inlets 1 outlet.

    A junkyard budget build at it's finest, but what can I say? I wanna go fast

    Here is the setup that got me interested


    I have the "idea" all drawn out

    There will be a single 3 inch charge pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body that will go where the green arrow goes.
    The blue is the upper radiator hose
    [yes there are right next to each other, BUT not touching. maybe 1/2 inch on each side]
    The gray belt is the v-belt
    The white belt is the serpentine belt - im not 100% sure the serpentine belt setup will work, but you never know until you try.
    The tensioner clears the charge pipe unsprung and fully sprung.

    Last edited by wow; 02-26-2015 at 04:00 PM.

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to wow For This Useful Post:

    Agent☣Orange (02-26-2015),Dandy (02-26-2015),lowandrusty (02-26-2015),Phatmiata (02-26-2015),tsingson (02-26-2015)

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