Thanks 👍Originally Posted by Demon I Am
Thanks 👍
If the O2s weren't replaced, and the code kept popping for them, 0420, the initial issue wasn't solved. The loose connector was probably unrelated. I would definitely address that first. I personally prefer direct fit plugs on the O2, but if you feel comfortable wiring in universal O2s, go for it.
If you suspect the EGR, pull it and clean it. People have soaked the sensor in a cleaner with good results, from what I read. Cleaning the tube would also be a good idea. The tube can be a little difficult to remove. The fitting on the header is compression and can be sticky from oxidation. Removing the coilpack gives you good access to the fastener (nut or bolt) that secures the tube at the back of the motor.
Running on a lean condition es no bueno.
Lean condition code is gone, misfire code is gone. So the non-drivable issue is no longer occurring. I've put on almost 50 miles with normal operation.
The only code now is either a p0420 or p0402. I'll verify tomorrow, as I'm tired and confused right now. One is the cat (or O2 sensors), the other would be the egr. Both of those are inconvenient, but not dire. I'll be looking at either replacing the sensors or getting a new cat/midpipe (roadstersport), or having Henry's weld me up something, if the cat looks bad when I pull it off.
I have cleaned the upper intake manifold, but have yet to clean the egr valve. That will be an afternoon project.
... And the cat came back, the very next day
Cleared the p0420 code this morning, drove 35r miles to work with no issue. 2 miles from home and it all came back. P0300, flashing cel, no power. Limped it the 2 miles home. Looking under the hood I noticed the VICS solenoid is broken at one of the nipples. I can pick up a good one tomorrow afternoon from a parts scrapper. A vacuum leak wouldn't cause all this headache, would it?
I'm tempted to buy a cops setup, if this coil pack is the problem. I want to try wiggling the wires again, and see if it does anything. No clue how the wiring would have become errant.
At this point I'm almost ready to walk away from the car, sell it at a loss or something
Last edited by Demon I Am; 06-01-2015 at 11:13 PM.
A large enough vacuum leak will cause all sorts of issues, especially drive ability. Vacuum leaks however don't typically come and go.
A truly huge vacuum leak will make life suck. A small one will just make a sucking noise and give you some sort of OBD code about the air meter.
I still think a good 90% of the exhaust needs to be removed and checked for plugging.
Well I can't get to work tomorrow, so I'll be looking at what I can. How explain how a clogged exhaust would cause the 2-3 cylinders to not pulse.I have read that misfires kill cats, but not the other way around.
Last edited by Demon I Am; 06-01-2015 at 11:07 PM.
So after more monkeying around today, I believe my problem is related to the wiring harness. with the car cranked and running smoothly, I can make it misfire by pushing the wiring harness against the coil pack housing ( front of the car). if I pull it back, the misfire goes away.
I checked the crank sensor, it was cruddy, so I cleaned and reinstalled. I've cleaned the upper intake mani. If I can figure out a way to do so, I'll pull the egr pipe. I don't have a 22mm wrench handy. Once the miata breaker is home, i'll go get that solenoid and probably a 3rd coil pack, just to have a spare.
Ordered 2 pigtails from Ballenger. I have on clue how to, and no tools to solder. Should I be OK with crimping the wires, or am I going to need to buy a soldering gun and other stuff?
Last edited by Demon I Am; 06-02-2015 at 03:51 PM.
Was the harness possibly pinched at some time back there?
bslkendall (06-02-2015),kung fu jesus (06-02-2015)
That was my guess. There are some sharp edges back there. If the coilpack connector is messed up, I suggest looking for a weatherpack connector. You may be able to find them locally. if you do that, it might be a great time to sheath the harness with the connectors cut off to insulate them further.
Does not look like it. one wire is bent at a 90* angle at the connector. Maybe the crimping on the inside is wacky? There are no cuts in the sheathing at all.
Tony, help me remember...
Does your FUBAR coil pack connector connect at the coils themselves (fixed to the back) or at a pigtail away from the coilpack?
I have used two-part epoxy in the back of OE connectors to stabilize aging wires going into brittle OE connectors. Just need to be sure the wires aren't frayed or corroded. Just a little epoxy helps brace the wires going into the connector, seals out weather. You don't want it to get into the male/female physical connection itself, or that connection become permanent.The two-part epoxy hardens fast, too.
If the detent on the connectors is broken or worn off, I have had some luck building up a new detent using a drop of superglue in that spot (connection apart of course). Sometimes 1 drop, wait for it to harden, then another drop, etc. builds up the surface so the connector with the latch can grab on to it.
I don't remember how many pins the NB1 coilpacks have, but this is an example of the Weather Pack connectors I mentioned in the previous post. Not cheap, (<$10), but they are something that is pretty 'bomb-proof' They seal so well, that sometimes they are hard to get apart.
I ordered these http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/2076
I don't have the tools required to crimp those, so I thought the pigtail would be easiest.
The coils themselves have the connector built on
kung fu jesus (06-02-2015)
Look at the pins in the connector and see if they have spread out. You could be getting an intermittentent connection caused by a loose or spread out pin.
Agent☣Orange (06-02-2015)
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