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Thread: My NA8 Pit Crew Racing Roadster Build

  1. #31
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    2001 NB2 aka Misfire
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    Temple, Tx is where Chad resides.
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    Its really coming together! That gauge cluster/panel/hood look FANTASTIC!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  2. #32
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    Kirin the '93LE Roadster #1073
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    NEW Tampa > OLD Tampa
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    man I love that Carbon Fiber Gauge hood, looks excellent!!

  3. #33
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    1996 Montego Blue
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delboy View Post
    We are now all pretty much up to date from the past 10 months or so, that was until this happened!



    It’s Back
























    This is how the car sits straight after picking it up from the paint shop. I am really, really, REALLY happy with how it has come out.

    Unfortunately, my picture taking skills leave a lot to be desired, Coupled to the fact the weather is miserable outside, these pictures are going to have to do. The car won’t be seeing the road till the weather improve (about spring time) Still give it gives me Time to put it all back together and sort some jobs along the way.

    One of the first thing I wanted to get done was to future proof the car in the form of rust proofing, and I have to decided (after much research) to go with Bilt hamber products to achieve this. http://www.bilthamber.com/

    Only Time will tell how well it holds up, but I have high hopes after previously using some of their other products. On a side note, they have been a fantastic company to deal with, great on the end of the phone advice. Also one off my parcel arrived damaged with items missing (presumed lost) quick phone call had the missing items sent out the next day, with a hand written apology letter and a free bottle of Auto wash.

    Not wanting to break habit here is an equally poor vid I grabbed mid-way through injecting the inner box sections/rear cill area, I did a lot of the work from the top down going through the drain channel etc. so this shows how much “creep” you get from this product.

    Excuse the poor sound I had the blow heater on.



    This was followed up by an application to the front cill and inner window surround. Up to now I have used four 750 ml Tins and planned to get another two for behind the front wings. For the under body areas + any were that is visible I will be using there under body clear wax. I cannot stand that black or brown under body protection from the like of DINITROL etc.
    I assume you pulled the drain tube. Another way is through the open seatbelt tower; you can reach back and feel the outer sill panel; the key area to hit is the space between the outer wing and the outer sill panel, because this area is not drained at all; the rest of the sill is well drained and ventilated. Also get the rear wheel arch area, through the boot. The Bilthamber dripping from your car has just gone through an area that doesn't really need to be waxed; its already well ventilated. The issue is the built up of condensate in the non-drained areas (ie a design flaw), which is made worse when the wheel arch seam fails,

  4. #34
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Delboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadsternut View Post
    I assume you pulled the drain tube. Another way is through the open seatbelt tower; you can reach back and feel the outer sill panel; the key area to hit is the space between the outer wing and the outer sill panel, because this area is not drained at all; the rest of the sill is well drained and ventilated. Also get the rear wheel arch area, through the boot. The Bilthamber dripping from your car has just gone through an area that doesn't really need to be waxed; its already well ventilated. The issue is the built up of condensate in the non-drained areas (ie a design flaw), which is made worse when the wheel arch seam fails,
    Yep pulled the drain tubes and your right about the outer panel, there is quite a bit of room to have a reach about in there with the side/seat belt trims removed.
    There is some comprehensive thread knocking about with the cill / rear quarter section cut open and dissected, So you know just were you are getting into.
    I'm pretty confident i have gotten into the prone areas and maybe gone a bit OTT in the not so prone parts.

    To be honest I don't think it will ever be a problem why I own the car, just by keeping on top of maintenance jobs etc to prevent these problems. Ive had roadsters before were the cill is actually full of water to the point were it's sloshing about, this is down to poor maintenance (by previous owners) not clearing the drainage points etc.
    spoilt for choice
    › to be unable to choose because there are so many possible good choices

    My NA8 Pit Crew Build

  5. #35
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Delboy's Avatar
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    another little find I came across arrived this week! Again it was one of those items that i never intended to swap out.
    As the Brace that came on the car was a nice addition that fitted in, and was found to be (Thanks to the help full folks on here)
    a 'Burning' Strut tower brace as advertised in hyper rev.

    This one however is most defiantly identifiable as a pit crew brace







    Needs a bit of a clean up but what you expect for something that "could be" knocking on for 20 years + old
    spoilt for choice
    › to be unable to choose because there are so many possible good choices

    My NA8 Pit Crew Build

  6. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Delboy For This Useful Post:

    Greasemonkey2000 (01-06-2016),Martin (01-06-2016),Phatmiata (01-06-2016),vindi49 (01-13-2016)

  7. #36
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! vaho's Avatar
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    Eunos Roadster '92
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    Sochi, Russia
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    You are awesome pit crew owner!)
    I have pit crew front bumper too)

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