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3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power
1991 BRG SE #225. 53Kmiles. Manual. Hardtop & Accessories.
So, a car popped up for sale in the Northeast that has my attention. I'm unfortunately double-mortgaged and in mid-project on the '91 BRG. I have lots of parts to freshen it up, most of them being high quality, nearly all of them uninstalled as of now. The BRG has a FM2.5 suspenion that I'd be returning to stock, and a set of Tein coilovers could be included in the sale (after purchase of other car, which I'd be putting 2.5 onto). Has FM Frame Rails installed, which I may leave, or pull off and put bolts through for future owner to install. Rails are decent, I installed FM braces as a preventative measure and to stiffen the car.
1991 BRG #225. Hardtop included, manual. Factory black top and plastic window are excellent. Has 53,xxx miles. Has factory tonneau and boot cover - both tan. Driver's side bolster is worn through, and has a number of minor dings and scratches. I have new brakes (Centric rotors, Hawk pads), along with all fluids, a new OE radiator, clutch master and slave, fuel filter, among other bits. Car is complete, and solid. No rust in fenders or elsewhere, all VIN tags intact. It does have a respray from previous owner, and while paint isn't excellent, I hope to make it presentable with polishing and wax.
That's a lot of rambling, I know. I'm just wondering what people think I may be able to get, and potentially, what my best strategy for selling the car is (Leave FM rails, remove them? Sell the car with a trunk full of maintenance parts, or get them all installed, etc.).
I'd like to think it's worth $6500, but what does everyone here think? Thanks for the input, -Matt
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I won't comment on price until I see it, but if you remove the FM rails, you have a LOT of holes to fill. I would leave them. I prefer being dead honest about cars I send to new owners. The more records, maintenance you have performed, the better price you can command. So, a few hours of wrenching can pay off.
I also point out all the flaws so there are fewer tire kickers and long phone calls from people experienced with the car. It cuts out the BS haggling.
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The Following User Says Thank You to kung fu jesus For This Useful Post:
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3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power
Thanks for the input. I guess, for now, I'll continue with chassis mods and maintenance items, and at least drive the car this summer. I think between two homes, 50+ hour weeks, and the complexity of some of the mods I had planned, I just got overwhelmed with the car.
I'll sell off a few things, seek a little assistance for the Torsen Swap and clutch work, and drive it N/A for the summer. On that note, it snowed again here yesterday, so I guess I still have time.
-Matt
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5,000 rpm - there be torque here!
Matt,
Let's plan on meeting up sometime to work on and drive our cars.
I can take a look at your car and give you my thoughts too.
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The Following User Says Thank You to WASABI For This Useful Post:
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3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power
Jim, I appreciate it. Just looked it up, you're almost exactly 3 hours away. 170 miles, not terrible, considering.
How much time would a TB/WP/Radiator/Belts & Hoses job take? Name your favorite brew/bottle and let's figure out a date that works...
I've got a local guy helping me with the Torsen, Clutch, and Brakes. Hoping to get that knocked out next week so I can start driving the car again.
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