Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: SSR / Watanabe RS8 Refurb: Hardware?

  1. #1
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power MLambert19's Avatar
    Drives
    1991 LS3 R.I.P. 1990 Donor Chassis in Progress!
    Location
    Western Maine
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    935
    Thanks Given
    433
    Thanked 597 Times in 311 Posts

    SSR / Watanabe RS8 Refurb: Hardware?

    It would be a shame for me to bolt my wheels back together with shoddy hardware. I believe the bolts are M6x30? Mine came with a serrated nut and a serrated washer. Trying to find black or stainless replacements, any leads or info appreciated!

    I know there are a few folks here with RS8's...

    Thanks, -Matt

  2. #2
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone RustRat's Avatar
    Drives
    Red NA8C 1.6L
    Location
    Mediterranean Sea
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,234
    Thanks Given
    1,588
    Thanked 944 Times in 465 Posts
    HarryB?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
    Drives
    '04 Strato Blue NB2
    Location
    Greece
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    5,941
    Thanks Given
    6,677
    Thanked 2,273 Times in 1,330 Posts
    Deffo M8. I can measure mine when I get back on Tuesday. Whatever you decide to do, go with at least Grade 8.8 or higher hardware, preferably stainless. Nuts should be flanged to spread the load. You can use either serrated or metalocks, as nylocks cannot cope with the brake heat. I will clean up and re-use the original bolts on mine.

  4. #4
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power MLambert19's Avatar
    Drives
    1991 LS3 R.I.P. 1990 Donor Chassis in Progress!
    Location
    Western Maine
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    935
    Thanks Given
    433
    Thanked 597 Times in 311 Posts
    HarryB, Thanks!

    I have new serrated stainless shoulder nuts here. I'm just looking at my OE black bolts and thinking they could look better...

  5. #5
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
    Drives
    '04 Strato Blue NB2
    Location
    Greece
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    5,941
    Thanks Given
    6,677
    Thanked 2,273 Times in 1,330 Posts
    A hardware store stocking metric hardware could assist you; I would keep the original bolts though, except if they were seized. Question, did you manage to separate the centers? I have been trying mine for a week now, to no avail...It won't bulge and I do not want to use a hammer too hard on the centers.

  6. #6
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power MLambert19's Avatar
    Drives
    1991 LS3 R.I.P. 1990 Donor Chassis in Progress!
    Location
    Western Maine
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    935
    Thanks Given
    433
    Thanked 597 Times in 311 Posts
    The original bolts all came off fine, they're a bit rusty is all. The nuts were really corroded, hence the replacements.

    The centers took a bit of a pounding to come out. I used a block of wood. My hope is that I can tighten the nuts evenly to re-install the centers without damaging the new powdercoat. I had the powdercoat shop mask the contact area where the center mates with the barrel to ensure they didn't go back together any harder than they came apart.

  7. #7
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
    Drives
    '04 Strato Blue NB2
    Location
    Greece
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    5,941
    Thanks Given
    6,677
    Thanked 2,273 Times in 1,330 Posts
    Bolts came off fairly easily on mine as well. Tried a block of wood, but not too much force, as I was afraid that I will damage them. Will try that again; if not, heat might work.

  8. #8
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power MLambert19's Avatar
    Drives
    1991 LS3 R.I.P. 1990 Donor Chassis in Progress!
    Location
    Western Maine
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    935
    Thanks Given
    433
    Thanked 597 Times in 311 Posts
    It was well worth it to get the centers off. Proper media blasting and two-stage (base & top) powdercoat made mine look as good as new. Only cost $120 ($30x4).

    If there's a good wheel shop anywhere near you, I was told the best way (after already removing faces and having powdercoated) would have been to put the whole assembly in an agitator, then the shop will remove the faces & polish the barrels. My barrels are OK, I did a little to them myself, but in retrospect it would have been nice to have perfect barrels, too...

    I guess it's fitting for my car, nothing on it is perfect, it's a driver. A few nicks and slight curbing on the wheels will make it easier to live with day-to-day.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to MLambert19 For This Useful Post:

    HarryB (04-29-2016)

  10. #9
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
    Drives
    '04 Strato Blue NB2
    Location
    Greece
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    5,941
    Thanks Given
    6,677
    Thanked 2,273 Times in 1,330 Posts
    That's the plan for the centers, sandblasting and powdercoated in champagne. I want to avoid a two step process, as I would like them slightly textured and matte. Most probably gonna shave and polish the barrels by myself on the lathe. Would love to see some pics of yours BTW!

    P.S. Might be a good idea to start an RS8 (or split wheels in general) refurb thread, as a "how-to"; maybe with links to hardware, valves etc. Actually, this very thread could do...

  11. #10
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
    Drives
    '04 Strato Blue NB2
    Location
    Greece
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    5,941
    Thanks Given
    6,677
    Thanked 2,273 Times in 1,330 Posts
    I have found that this guy has proper 90deg valves with long stems. Bonus (for me), he's in Europe

    http://www.mistertee.co.uk/2.html

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •