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Thread: oil pan seal help.

  1. #1
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch GI Jo's Avatar
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    oil pan seal help.

    i'll be pulling my 1.8 engine out in a couple weeks, or as soon as tax return is in.
    the last time i pulled it was to replace my rear main seal. i heard it was a tough job and that was definitely true. i ended up removing the omega looking housing because the seal wouldn't budge. what a mistake that was!! removing it meant i needed to redo the oil pan seal. well, after dropping the engine back in, it seems as if i have an oil leak sucks, but ive heard even some shops mess up sometimes since its a job u need to do perfectly, which makes me feel better. lol. and, having an engine stand helps a grip, not just the engine hoist.

    anywayz, does anyone know how to PROPERLY do the oil pan seal? or a shop that can do it for cheap? i'll do all the work, i just want anything that has to do with an oil seal done professionally.

    thanks,
    -Jo

  2. #2
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jux's Avatar
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    Well, you should have a crescent-shaped seal at the front and back of the pan. The rest is done with rtv or equivalent. So long as everything is assembled and torqued correctly, you should be good to go.
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  3. #3
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch GI Jo's Avatar
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    did all that, but i guess i must have missed a spot. is it supposed to be that easy?

  4. #4
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! urban's Avatar
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    Yes it is . make sure you torque it down to spec and in a pattern similar to a valve cover.
    be fairly generous with the silicone ,and dont clean up the excess that squishes out.

  5. #5
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch GI Jo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by urban View Post
    Yes it is . make sure you torque it down to spec and in a pattern similar to a valve cover.
    be fairly generous with the silicone ,and dont clean up the excess that squishes out.
    maybe thats where i went wrong i did apply a generous amount though, if anything, after tightening down the pan, i thought i might have put too much.
    guess i'll have to try it again.

    also, for the rear main seal, its just remove and replace correct?

    TIA,
    Jo

  6. #6
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! urban's Avatar
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    Sorry so late
    the rear main needs to be pulled with a hook style tool made for pulling seals.
    do not scar the metal.
    Installing it needs to be precisely even and flush with the edge. its pretty easy to cause them to leak.
    and such a pain to fix .

  7. #7
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch GI Jo's Avatar
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    alrighty. thanksss

  8. #8
    Idling - Listen to it purr...
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    same problem here

  9. #9
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I replaced the rear oil pan seal when I did my RMS. The oilpan still leaks, so I really suspect the RTV is just old and brittle.

    you can replace that rear oilpan seal, but it's a little tricky. It wants to be installed with the oilpan clamping it down straight, but you would have to remove the engine to do that. I had to put the omega in bottom first then the top. I needed two pairs of vice grips to squeeze the omega down onto the oilpan seal so the bolts would line up. I used a lot of RTV around there, too.

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