Coilover install

[NbSteve]

Installing coilovers or lowering springs: I know this info is out there but maybe someone who stumbles upon this hasn't found it just yet.

The rear is pretty straight forward, while the front can be a bit tricky depending on the method you use. I tried disconnecting the LCA/ball joint as seen on other threads/vids, then found a method for the UPPER control arm, called the long bolt method.
Basically removing the long bolt on the front uppers from the frame end, to allow the whole hub assy to droop lower.
It's actually really simple with the right wrenches, ratchets, swivel thingies, adapters, breaker bars, impact, pb blaster maybe(probably), and some vice grips.
What I did:
Loosen lugs and shock tower top hat nuts. I completely removed the nuts then finger tightened the bottom one back on to keep the shock from falling when I don't want it to.
Jack up one side, place two stands under the chassis, NOT CONTROL ARMS. YOU NEED THESE TO BE MOVABLE. One front one rear obviously. You can do both rear or front coils at the same time if you'd like but my tools/lights were all on one side so that's how I did mine.
Remove wheels
Have the jack handy to compress the hub/A-arm assembly when needed. Some bolts require you to lift the assy. in order to relieve the tension.
For the rears:
Again have all four top hats loosened already
Start with the lower shock eyelet bolt. Pretty straightforward, unless your bolt is completely seized like mine were and you have to use an impact. No biggie. Just finger tighten the bolt back on to keep it from popping out. You'll want to be able to compress the shock so it's gotta stay in place for now, but trying to break the bolt free can be hard once everything else is all wobbly.
Then go to the sway bar end links. This allows a lot more droop. Remove the nut, then jack up the hub so the stud of the link is level with the mounting point and you can slide it out and swivel the link out of the way. Doesn't matter if you remove the top or bottom ends of the end link.
Next remove the lower control arm/hub bolt. It's long, but not the reason for the name "long bolt method". We'll get to that in the front.
Work a pry bar under the shock from some stupid angles and such to unstick the eyelet bushing and maybe pop it out completely. Always be careful because things can just spring into any direction at any time. But also don't be afraid to manhandle it. Just watch that your fingers don't get pinched and your teeth don't get knocked by a rotor.
This part might also take a second set of hands (or feet) to push down or step on the LCA while you pry the shock eyelet up and out. Once that's done, and the bottom is free, remove the top hat bolt, then reverse for install. Get the new coilover/shock shaft up through the chassis, finger tighten it with top hat on, and wedge it back down into the lower. Again, maybe with some help to hold the lower down while wedging it in. If you can't get the eyelet to line up with the mounts on the LCA, use a screwdriver the pull the shock so the eyelet is flush all around for the bolt to slide through. Then the control arm/hub bolt, same thing if necessary. Jack up the assy and reconnect the sway bar, and move to the top hat. Pretty straight-forward there. Just remember to recheck EVERYTHING before dropped the car, and once on the ground check AGAIN the top hats because once compressed, the shock shaft moves up more. So retighten. You'll probably have to do this again later also.