Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 27 of 27

Thread: What Brake Bleeder would you guys recommend?

  1. #16
    Idling - Listen to it purr... lablu's Avatar
    Drives
    1994 Laguna Blue R-pkg
    Location
    Missouri, USA
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    35
    Thanks Given
    11
    Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts
    I guess I answered a question that wasn't specifically asked. However Hammerhead asked if there were any special considerations for bleeding ABS equipped systems. Since bleeding the brakes follows replacing pads a lot of the time I thought it would be relevant.

    Anytime the piston/pistons are pushed back into the caliper (as when making room for putting on new pads) one runs the risk of forcing contaminated fluid back through the ABS controller and master cylinder. My Bentley manuals all suggest this is a bad idea, especially for the ABS controller.
    Last edited by lablu; 11-06-2016 at 10:42 PM. Reason: Add additional information.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to lablu For This Useful Post:

    Hammerhead (11-06-2016)

  3. #17
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
    Drives
    Black & Tan '97 - Betty
    Location
    Kinston, NC
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    5,554
    Thanks Given
    2,805
    Thanked 3,022 Times in 1,162 Posts
    Honestly, after having tried so many different methods, the best I've found is likely the cheapest and easiest.

    1 clean, empty, plastic water/soda bottle with cap
    3 feet of clear silicone/plastic tubing
    Maybe a ziptie

    Cut/drill hole into bottle cap slightly smaller than the tubing. Slip tubing onto bleeder (maybe using a ziptie to hold it on), other end goes into the bottle through the cap. Fill bottle 1/4 full with fresh brake fluid, end of tube should be submerged in fluid. Crack bleeder open and press the brake pedal a few times. Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir and the plastic bottle. Work each corner until there's no sign of air bubbles.

    As long as the tubing is securely on the bleeder, there shouldn't be any chance of air entering the system since the other end of it should be submerged in the fluid of the bottle.

    I now do this even when I have a helper instead of calling back and forth whether or not the bleeder is open or closed and if it's OK to pump the brake pedal.

    It's such a simple method, requiring so little, I can on most occasions MacGyver what is needed in a couple minutes.

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to JamieH For This Useful Post:

    Hammerhead (11-07-2016),kung fu jesus (11-07-2016)

  5. #18
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
    Drives
    1999 White
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    15,852
    Thanks Given
    2,791
    Thanked 7,202 Times in 3,433 Posts
    ^ that's what I do.

  6. #19
    Supporting Member Hammerhead's Avatar
    Drives
    1993-LE Miata
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    3,743
    Thanks Given
    1,411
    Thanked 1,087 Times in 523 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by JamieH View Post
    ...I now do this even when I have a helper instead of calling back and forth whether or not the bleeder is open or closed and if it's OK to pump the brake pedal...
    To be clear, you just keep the bleeder open and continue to pump the brakes until all bubbles are gone and fluid continues to fill the bottle?

  7. #20
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
    Drives
    Black & Tan '97 - Betty
    Location
    Kinston, NC
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    5,554
    Thanks Given
    2,805
    Thanked 3,022 Times in 1,162 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    To be clear, you just keep the bleeder open and continue to pump the brakes until all bubbles are gone and fluid continues to fill the bottle?
    Yep.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to JamieH For This Useful Post:

    Hammerhead (11-07-2016)

  9. #21
    Supporting Member Hammerhead's Avatar
    Drives
    1993-LE Miata
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    3,743
    Thanks Given
    1,411
    Thanked 1,087 Times in 523 Posts
    This should be more fun now with Wilwoods and 4 bleeder vales on all four corners (16). I guess four lines into the bottle for each caliper.

  10. #22
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
    Drives
    1999 White
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    15,852
    Thanks Given
    2,791
    Thanked 7,202 Times in 3,433 Posts
    No, just bleed from the highest valves.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to kung fu jesus For This Useful Post:

    Hammerhead (11-07-2016)

  12. #23
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Travyss's Avatar
    Drives
    1995 Montego Blue Miata
    Location
    Melbourne, Fl
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    101
    Thanks Given
    15
    Thanked 54 Times in 29 Posts
    I have the motive bleeder also. I never put fluid in the motive tank. I just check the fluid level in the reservoir and re-applied pressure and my brakes were done in 10 minutes without more than 2 hands.

  13. #24
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
    Drives
    1999 10th AE
    Location
    Northern Cali
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    938
    Thanks Given
    65
    Thanked 438 Times in 226 Posts
    Ok folks so I just saw a friend do a "Reverse Brake Bleeding" on his ABS equipped car. Very sleek and clean way to do brake bleeding. Definitely one man job.

    I will update you guys when I do mine this weekend.
    Life is short drive a Miata

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to mx54life For This Useful Post:

    Hammerhead (11-07-2016)

  15. #25
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
    Drives
    1999 10th AE
    Location
    Northern Cali
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    938
    Thanks Given
    65
    Thanked 438 Times in 226 Posts
    So I just did my brake bleeding with the "Phoenix Reverse Brake Bleeder". Definitely a one man job. A bit messy since this was my first time to use it. You need lube to seal around the bleeder screw thread when you loosen it as air could/will sip in it.

    My steps were....

    1. Siphoned the old fluid from the MC with use of a 60 cc syringe (use can also use the Phoenix).
    2. Replace with fresh brake fluid.
    3. Suctioned the Right Rear Caliper till fluid is clear. Reverse bleed till the MC is full of fresh fluid.
    (Since this is the furthest it takes a few pumps just keep an eye out)
    4. Suctioned the Left Rear Caliper till fluid is clear. Then reverse bleed till MC is full of fresh fluid.
    5. Suctioned the Right Front Caliper till fluid is clear. Then reverse bleed till MC is full of fresh fluid.
    6. Suctioned the Left Front Caliper......reverse bleed....till the MC is filled up to the "Max". Done!!!

    Again what slowed me down is that every time I bled one caliper I have to place a dab of lube around the thread of the bleed screw to seal it. And of course the cleaning. A good 30 minute job for the time being.

    I need more practice so anybody in my neck of woods needs help with this project hit me up I will do it for free lol.
    Life is short drive a Miata

  16. #26
    Supporting Member Hammerhead's Avatar
    Drives
    1993-LE Miata
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    3,743
    Thanks Given
    1,411
    Thanked 1,087 Times in 523 Posts
    Thanks, mx54life! I may be obtuse, but I'm still not understanding what reverse bleed(ing) is. Can you explain?

  17. #27
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! MiataQuest's Avatar
    Drives
    faster now with the Ecotec 2.4 (1992 white NA)
    Location
    Detroit, Michigan
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    3,076
    Thanks Given
    3,797
    Thanked 1,024 Times in 443 Posts
    I have a Motive pressure bleeding kit and I do not like it. It takes me longer to clean out the Motive fluid reservoir and get it all set-up than to do it manually. If you owned a shop, go to the track, or cannot get an assistant then it is good. I do not like leaving brake fluid in the Motive reservoir because it will could exposed to possible moisture due to the volume of air in the container and it could get old.
    When I do use the Motive bleeder because I am home alone, I do it the way Travyss does it.
    Using the Travyss method also reduces the risk to spray brake fluid onto your paint and engine bay.

    Here is my old skool brake bleeding method. It is probably similar to KFJ.

    BLEEDING TO REPLACE FLUID AND REMOVE AIR
    1. Put the car on jack stands with the wheels off.
    2. Place a container under each caliper to catch the brake fluid.
    3. Put a drop of oil on each of the bleeder threads to loosen up the rust.
    4. Siphon all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir.
    5. Wipe master cylinder reservoir clean if possible.
    6. Top off master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
    7. I use a ¼ inch ratchet and six-point deep well socket to break loose each bleeder and then lightly retighten them again. I then switch over to a straight hand driver with the same six-point socket. I like to bleed into the socket to keep the brake fluid from squirting all over.
    8. Get your assistant into the driver’s seat. Teach them these words and functions.
    * PUMP – Slowly push the pedal down with light pressure until it stops, then release, count 2 seconds and repeat. (The 2 seconds delay allows the master cylinder to release any air bubbles and refill if air is present at the master cylinder)
    * HOLD – Hold the brake pedal down with mild pressure. Do not allow the brake pedal to return even if the brake pedal goes down. They can only allow the brake pedal to return after the command RELEASE.
    9. Your plan will be to bleed the furthest bleeder from the master cylinder first and then work up to the closest being last. Then repeat.
    10. Have your assistant PUMP the brakes a few times then HOLD. Open the bleeder as fluid shoots into the socket then close the bleeder. Repeat this several times. In between bleeds tap the calipers lightly with a hammer to make any air bubbles release.
    Keep a check on the brake fluid level. Keep topping it off. You do NOT want the master cylinder to run out of fluid.
    11. Final bleed. Same as above except close off the bleeder more quickly. You would want to close the bleeder before the brake pedal has bottomed out to reduce the chance to suck back any air through the bleeder.
    12. Tighten all four bleeders with your ¼ ratchet.
    13. Pump the brakes 4 times and check the brake fluid level.

    LOTS OF AIR IN THE SYSTEM DUE TO CHANGING BRAKE COMPONENTS
    Before getting your assistant you can perform a preliminary “gravity bleed”.
    1. Put the car on jack stands with the wheels off.
    2. Place a container under each caliper to catch the brake fluid.
    3. Put a drop of oil on each of the bleeder threads to loosen up the rust.
    4. Siphon all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir.
    5. Wipe master cylinder reservoir clean if possible.
    6. Top off master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
    7. Open the bleeder farthest from the master cylinder.
    8. Grab a beer and wait a while until you see fluid slowly leaking out the bleeder.
    9. Keep checking the master cylinder fluid level.
    10. Occasionally lightly hammer on the calipers to release air bubbles.
    11. Let it bleed this way until you get clean fluid.
    12. Close the bleeder and move to the next bleeder, repeat.
    13. Now bleed the brakes as noted above with an assistant.

    CHANGING THE MASTER CYLINDER
    1. Do a bench bleed before installing the master cylinder.
    2. Next do the gravity feed as noted above followed by a bleed with an assistant.
    Last edited by MiataQuest; 11-13-2016 at 09:32 AM.

  18. The Following User Says Thank You to MiataQuest For This Useful Post:

    HarryB (11-13-2016)

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •