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Thread: Wideband options

  1. #1
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift I<3flippyheadlights's Avatar
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    Wideband options

    Well I'm buying a wideband right now and I don't really know what I want. here is my problems.

    1. Brand - simple enough, right? I guess the best ones out there are the AEM and Innovate. Everyone has an opinion, I want yours.

    2. Wideband use - What exactly am I using this thing for? I can buy a simple air/fuel ratio gauge and be done. I'm running piggy backs so there is no point in having a wideband controller. But, if one day I decide to go to stand alone ECU, I would need a controller, correct?

    My situation as of right now - There is a company that is offering a brand new AEM wideband with UEGO controller for $165 shipped. Not a bad deal. Then again, I could buy an Innovate air/fuel gauge for $75 bucks. It has no controller, but gets the job done.

    Innovate gauge in question
    http://thmotorsports.com/innovate_motor ... 30400.aspx

    Thoughts, opinions and comments are appreciated.

    Thanks everyone
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  2. #2
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! brownmiata's Avatar
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    Great questions. You are not the only one looking in the same category. Cant wait to see some replies!
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    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift I<3flippyheadlights's Avatar
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    If someone decides to reply...
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    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone etikoner's Avatar
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    I got my arm uego widenand from bisimoto.com for 159 shipped

  5. #5
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift I<3flippyheadlights's Avatar
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    How do you like it?
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    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    A wideband gauge is just a standalone device that tells you your air-fuel mixture. It has nothing to do with whether you have a piggyack or a sandalone ECU. You can adjust either based upon what the the wideband indicates. For instance, most FI'd setups run lean at boost, causing the ECU to pull timing. So, you adjust your controller to add fuel and recheck your wideband to see if you're still running lean. That's it in the most elementary sense.

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power imperfekt's Avatar
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    ^this.

    I have innovate lc-1 wideband, all it does is show me my afr so that i can change the megasquirt's fueling table accordingly...

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! iamdallas's Avatar
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    You need a controller, something to read and give you information. Then you need a gauge to display that information.


    One can't just buy a gauge and plug it in. OEM cars usually only have a narrowband and egt to tune from, so you have to have something (wideband controller) to generate the information that you need.

    However, you can use a narrowband and egt to tune somewhat. And you should be able to do so pretty well with a piggyback.
    Last edited by iamdallas; 07-14-2013 at 12:55 PM.

  9. #9
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Sure, that's kind of assumed. You get a wideband kit from someplace like AEM, Innovate or PLX for example and it comes with a controller (or LAMBDA cable), gauge face, O2 sensor and maybe even a bung to weld on your exhaust. That takes care of your ability to read your AFR in real time.


    Then the other half is what to do with that information and depending on your device, whether a piggyback or standalone, you adjust your fuel, timing, etc. What I'm getting at is that the OP says he has a piggyback so there's no need for a wideband and that assumption is wrong. The wideband is one device to read AFR and his piggyback is the device he'll use to adjust his fuel in order to tune his AFR.

    No, a pretty gauge face alone isn't going to read off AFR if it isn't connected to anything. I like the kits that have the dual function like AFR + vac/boost in one gauge.

  10. #10
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift I<3flippyheadlights's Avatar
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    I'm not saying if I need a wideband or not, I'm asking if I need a controller. From my understanding is that the controller talks to the standalone ECU. I don't have a standalone ECU so I was wondering if a gauge and O2 sensor would suffice. Apparently not.
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    Also check out the facebook page http://www.facebook.com/IHeartFlippyHeadlights !!! Its a facebook page dedicated to the awesomeness which is flippyheadlights! Not me, but the actual headlights! High time someone noticed how awesome these things are; check it out!

  11. #11
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Jumbosrule's Avatar
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    I'm throwing out PLX as the third option you should consider. I think PLX is more modern and user friendly, plus modular and expandable. You can daisy chain multiple sensors and display them all on one gauge face if you want. I have them in my last two builds and can't see ever trying another brand.

    Most likely you will need to weld in another O2 sensor that is dedicated to the gauge. You don't need a controller per se, but you need the ability to read the sensor signal and to have it displayed on the gauge screen. Some gauges do plug directly into the gauge display because the electronics are located behind the display. PLX separates the electronics into a module and a separate display which is less than 3/8" thick so you can mount it just about anywhere. Almost zero backspace is required.

    Check PLX website. I'm guessing it will be your new first choice after you see the product options; including single gauges that can display OBDII and your aftermarket sensors with wireless display to your smartphone! Multiple display options, including customizable display screens.

    These gauges cost about the same as all the others but have a lot more flexibility, expandability and customization possibilities. I can't say too many good things about these gauges and as I have said, they are in my last two builds and will be in my next ones as well, unless somebody comes up with a better product.

    http://www.plxdevices.com/

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by I<3flippyheadlights View Post
    Well I'm buying a wideband right now and I don't really know what I want. here is my problems.

    1. Brand - simple enough, right? I guess the best ones out there are the AEM and Innovate. Everyone has an opinion, I want yours.

    2. Wideband use - What exactly am I using this thing for? I can buy a simple air/fuel ratio gauge and be done. I'm running piggy backs so there is no point in having a wideband controller. But, if one day I decide to go to stand alone ECU, I would need a controller, correct?

    My situation as of right now - There is a company that is offering a brand new AEM wideband with UEGO controller for $165 shipped. Not a bad deal. Then again, I could buy an Innovate air/fuel gauge for $75 bucks. It has no controller, but gets the job done.

    Innovate gauge in question
    http://thmotorsports.com/innovate_motor ... 30400.aspx

    Thoughts, opinions and comments are appreciated.

    Thanks everyone
    Kind of old thread but...

    Your oem configuration uses a narrow band which is capable of reading accurate Air fuel ratios ONLY at the stoichiometric 14.7 air fuel ratio. You can add a gauge to run off your oem narrow band to easily display your air fuel ratio but it won't give you accurate readings outside the stoich region.

    A wideband give you the ability to read accurate air fuel ratios across the whole board. This is necessary when turbo where you'll need a 12:1 or richer ratio under boost. The controller is required to convert the wideband sensor signal to something the gauge and ECU can read and is required with any wideband sensor.

    With you piggy back system the gauge will let you know at a quick glance they your air fuel ratios are what they should be while driving. When you get a stand alone ECU the wideband will create a closed loop feedback control system that will give important information that the computer uses to calculate how much fuel is being added.

    Most people recommend innovative LC-1, innovative mtx-l, or AEM EUGO. Hope that answered your question.

  13. #13
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! MX5RACER's Avatar
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    Some thoughts from my experiences with widebands:

    Innovate LC-1 are good, but not the strongest. They are very sensitive to install and need to be installed correctly to function. I have installed 3 LC-1's, first one worked great until the header broke and melted the wires on the gauge, which fried the LC-1 controller. Second one was DOA. Third one has worked well for a year but in the summer on track, the sensor overheats and stops giving data. They are also sensitive to heat, and require a heat sink when used with a turbo.

    The AEM units work well but are harder to get synch'd with a Megasquirt. I helped install one on a Rotrex supercharged Miata and the owner is happy and has had zero issues with it, even on track.

    If I had to do it over again, I would use the AEM.

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