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Thread: 1993 miata 1.8 swap from a 1994 need help

  1. #16
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Pulled the tape off the CAS and the damn wires just fell out of the butt connectors. I did not like the ones that came with the FM kit and this is why. Now I need to go to advanced and purchase the kind I like because I only have one left.

  2. #17
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    yeah that is probably be it. I had my car die out on the highway, after a wire broke from the connector

  3. #18
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    Solder & heat shrink

  4. #19
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    IT'S ALIVE !!! I need to get timing straight but after rewiring CAS my Miata fired right up no hiccup.

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to JLBMX5 For This Useful Post:

    kung fu jesus (09-03-2013),WASABI (09-03-2013)

  6. #20
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    Congrats!

  7. #21
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Thanks. im still scared to drive it more than around my block because of some noises I'm getting but if I do get it strait tomorrow I will come to meet. Right now its dead heat of the day. I look like a damn lobster alleeady so once it cools down out I will take a better look at things plus my car ran a bit. Will let it settle and check for leaks as well.

  8. #22
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    I would recommend solder those connections and shrink wrap them James just so you know that they won't come undone and be exposed.

  9. #23
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin View Post
    Solder & heat shrink
    This! I threw out the connectors FM sent right away and just soldered/shrink wrapped everything.
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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    1991 Mariner Blue - Built 1.8 swap, EFR, Fab9Tuning, Tii drivetrain

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    tsingson (09-03-2013)

  11. #24
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    OK just got in from test drive. header rubs on foot well so I stuck a piece of black rubber between header and wall seems to have cured that. I'm loving the drive but it took a lot for me not to really put my foot down. New clutch I want it to last so gonna baby it for a cpl of weeks. That brings me to my next question when I push clutch all the way to the floor and put it in gear. soon as I move my foot a little to release it the car is in gear. I purchased a lightweight flywheel and stage1 1.6 clutch so I guess it pertains to people that have that setup. I did gravity bleed today and it did not change. new master new slave and new 949 extended clutch line installed as well.

  12. #25
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Gravity bleed isn't always useful. Sounds like there is air in it.

  13. #26
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    NC club is gettin 'R' done, let see some photos in this thread so member dont have to search that huge NC meet thread you guys have, LOL

  14. #27
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....785#post100785

    There is link to my build thread. It has pics

    It is only one page so not long at all and it shows car when I first got it all of one year ago.

  15. #28
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! 3MiataFamily's Avatar
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    Guess i should have followed the thread to page 2...

    congrats on solving the problem

    Gravity bleed is useless...the hardline from the clutch master goes UPWARDS...then across ..then down to the slave...gravity only drains the second portion of the system...leaving a huge bubble...the Motive power bleeder is the most used tool in the Club tool stash...but not cheap. if you have an air compressor and blowgun, just blow air across the top of the reservoir thru the vent with the bleeder at the slave open...this will force the fluid out of the complete line...being very careful to close valve before stopping airflow and do not let the clutch master run dry. It works...
    Last edited by 3MiataFamily; 09-03-2013 at 10:56 PM.
    President Nutmeg Miata Club/94 C pkg/163k/VMaxx/RB header/exhaust/NEW PAINT!/RB sways/OZ Racing Starlights/Boss Frog Twin

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    atank (09-04-2013)

  17. #29
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Adjust the rod with two nuts on it under the dash at the top of your clutch pedal. giggity. but no, really, adjust your clutch pedal
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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    1991 Mariner Blue - Built 1.8 swap, EFR, Fab9Tuning, Tii drivetrain

  18. The Following User Says Thank You to psulja For This Useful Post:

    atank (09-04-2013)

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