Hard top questions

[agaylor27]

I have a friend whose mom has a 1992 Miata and I was wondering if her old hard top will fit on my 2004?

[— Phatmiata —]

yes it will just fine, but in 2001 they changed the front latch design, so you would have to buy the newer 2002+ OEM front latches

[agaylor27]

could I use the latches off of my soft top? and how much would one go for?

[theothersawyer]

Stolen from m.net

Q) How are the various Mazda tops different?

All Mazda hard tops are based on the same design. All are made of "sheet molding compound" (SMC) which is kind of like fiberglass. They have a large wraparound glass window, with defroster elements after 1994. The top is held on by 4 latches (two at the windshield header and two behind the doors) and 2 cleats that slip over "Frankenstein bolts" on the rear deck. The top weighs between 40lbs and 50lbs, depending on model year. My 2003 Mazda hardtop (which has both the defroster and headliner) weighs 50.5lbs.

Mazda changed the hard top design 4 times (so far):

1989-1991 - Original
1992-1997 - Defroster and Headliner - This top has a defroster built into the rear window, along with a wiring pigtail to connect it to the car's electrical system. This top also adds some more insulation to the inside of the top, reducing noise and heat loss.
1999-early 2003 - Pigtail - This top has a different plug style for the defroster pigtail. The L-shaped brackets to hold down the soft top are also longer in the NB top than in the NA top.
Late 2003-2004 - Latches - This top has redesigned latches to match those on the 2003+ cars. See this TSB for VINs. If you want to use this top on an earlier car, you must replace the strikers or they will be damaged and the top may not stay latched! It also has the new defroster pigtail plug and longer L-brackets like the '99.

Hardtop from a 92 on a 03

92/03) 1992-1997 Hardtop on 2003-2004 Car
Your car is pre-wired for a defroster, but the connector on this older top will not work with the one on your rear deck. So you need to replace the pigtail inside the hardtop with the NB-style one. Also, your car's redesigned striker plates on the windshield header won't work with the old latches on this top. So you need to replace the hardtop latches with the new-style ones. You also need to add striker plates at the sides, and you should use the old-style ones so you don't have to replace the side latches on the hardtop, too. Finally, you need Frankenstein Bolts at the back.

Another option, you don't NEED the defroster to work (assuming the top has defrost) and you could always steal the latches off of your soft top and put them on the hard top for the time being, obviously you'd have to switch these back if you wanted to take the hardtop off. Side latches are not necessary for keeping the hardtop on, but they help.

Edit:

could I use the latches off of my soft top? and how much would one go for?

Yes.

[agaylor27]

all in all steal the latches from my soft, add frankstein bolts and strike plates?

[theothersawyer]

Steal latches from the hardtop and adding Frankenstein bolts are the only necessary things needed. I have been running without side latches for about 6 months without issue.

[— kung fu jesus —]

You may to 'fit' the top. All you need is a buddy or two.

Put your latches on the hardtop, put the hardtop on the car, latch it down.

Have a buddy push down on the center of the hardtop where it meets the windshield. Loosen the screws or bolts that secure the latches to the top and while he/she is still pushing down on the top, retighten the screws/bolts.

This is usually needed if you are hearing wind noise from the leading edge of the hardtop at speed. Just a minor adjustment.

I really recommend replacing those OE screws that attach the latches to the top with bolts because they are a little soft and prone to rounding out.

[roadracemiata]

You cant run side latches if you have most roll bars. Doesn't really matter at all