Yup
Yup
One last before you show
Do u have pics...might be.interested if prices are right
Let's post these pieces in the classifieds. If you want to link the ads here to this thread, I am fine with that. I understand why people don't want to ship pieces, but you can state that in your ad and people outside the RDU area may be willing to drive out to pick it up.
Please don't make me delete posts above.
***Edit: Time's up. Too bad, so sad.***
Last edited by kung fu jesus; 09-04-2014 at 02:38 PM.
So, in the next two weeks I will have headers, a new custom catback exhaust, a roll bar, a harness bar and frame rails. The headers are on and the exhaust shop will do the rest but does anyone have experience/tools to install the roll bar and frame rails? I dont have tools or experience messing with body modification.
2000 green ls
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers
DDM led bits
OMP Corsica 330
15x9 Advanti Storm S1
225/45 BFG Rivals
The only uncommon tool you need for the roll bar is a right angle drill. Other than that, a normal hand drill, bits, some hammers, and wrenches are all you need. For the frame rails, make sure to paint or rust proof the bare metal after drilling the holes.
tsingson (09-04-2014)
regular drill will work with a long bit
Wrench is a must have for the lower seatbelt reel bolt. It cannot be put back on with a socket or adjustable wrench because the new rollbar sits in the way. We can into this problem on tonys car and it was a pain in the ass without the correct wrench.
I know this is kinda off topic but....
Today around 4:30ish i saw a silver NA with what looked like a Cobalt/BSP dual low profile headlamp conversion driving down Kildare Farm Rd. in Cary, was this anyone on here? i popped my lights up but no reply.....
1990 Honda CRX Si ~ Current DD
1990 Mazda Miata ~ Current Project (FREE!)
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2000 VW Jetta GLX VR6- Interim while Speed6 was repaired~ Sold
2006 MazdaSpeed 6- Engine Blown, then replaced ~ Sold (Good riddance)
1996 Mazda Miata C-Package- "ShiroNeko"~ RIP
1991 Honda CRX B18A1 Swap- "RedPanda"~RIP
1993 Honda Civic Si hatch- "Suki"~Sold
1971 Ford Maverick Grabber- "Trixie"~Never for sale
Got my seats installed. Tomorrow I work 6 hours. Depending on weather then im gonna give my car a quick wash and I need to vacume it out. After that I can get some pics of the install. With the way my driveway is I have grass everywhere inside my car now.
For the rollbar, here are some tips:
- I use a long drill bit it's 12 or 18" long. Most stores carry them, like Lowes, Home Depot, ACE. Make sure it is a bit for metal.
- In one instance, the long bit was missing, so we use a long metal rod with a pointed end and punched through where we needed the rear holes to be, then drilled from below with a normal-length bit.
- Tin snips are the quickest way to trim out the metal you need to remove to make the rear legs on the rollbar fit. If you want a clean cut, or clean the cut afterwards, a dremel is great for that.
- Make sure the bar is centered in the car as close as possible before drilling the rear leg holes. I usually mount the bar loose, with the seatbelt reels installed, then tighten the seatbelt reel anchors when I have the bar centered to temporarily hold it in place. I usually get with in +/- 3mm. It can be VERY important later for adding a hardtop, door bars, or regular everyday softtop operation.
- When you are installing the bar, make sure the car is on an even surface, tighten the mounting bolts at each corner incrementally, or you will be fighting the bar. You have to raise the car. If you can only raise the rear, make sure the car is fairly even side to side (i.e. both rear wheels are about the same distance off the ground)
- Everyone has a certain level of execution on the trimming of the interior bits. If it has been a long day installing the bar, wait until the next day or when you have a fresher outlook before doing that. I have seen tired people rush this at the end of an installation and mess it up badly.
- Buy a can of undercoating (aerosol) to coat the nuts, bolts and plates that are outside the car after installation.
- With a buddy, you can do the installation in about 5-6 hours with simple tools. I have installed more of these than I can remember (9 or 10?), the hardest part is removing all the interior bits. I don't help people with anything interior-related, everyone has their own expectation/preferences of how they prefer their interior to be.
For the frame rails, it is best to have all four wheels off the ground, as high as you can, in order to drill the floor from the bottom. The installation is pretty simple, just tedious. It helps immensely to have someone help you from inside the car when installing the bolts. A 3# hammer is the most useful tool for this job, especially if your current rails are mashed or damaged. That 3# hammer will shape those back to fit your overlays on them in no time. You will be a little alarmed how soft they are.
Use the undercoating over the existing rails if you beat or shape them, test fitting the overlays first. Allow it to dry a bit, then install the overlays, undercoat everywhere you drilled or put a bolt through (inside and outside the car).
Frame rail overlays should take you and a friend about 3-5 hours.
Crossusn (09-07-2014),Pyr0monk3y (09-07-2014),tsingson (09-06-2014),WASABI (09-07-2014)
Wow aweseome response man, thank you!!! I will definitely take my time and do it on level ground. I wouldn't have thought about that before.
2000 green ls
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers
DDM led bits
OMP Corsica 330
15x9 Advanti Storm S1
225/45 BFG Rivals
The chassis will twist a little if it is grossly unlevel. Installing a rollbar on a car that is twisted like that makes everything harder to install and puts a lot of tension on the mounting points for the bar.
I am headed out to cary this weekend to have my seat back braces made . Anyone know anything about aluminum seats. Will a brace stop them from moving as much as they feel like they do and stop the top from hitting rollbar