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Thread: Everything RDU 2014

  1. #121
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Yup

  2. #122
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! TimTim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLBMX5 View Post
    Got this in the mail today
    Mail order kitten?!?!

  3. #123
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Golden Stallion's Avatar
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    One last before you show

  4. #124
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! WDBMX5's Avatar
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    Do u have pics...might be.interested if prices are right

  5. #125
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Let's post these pieces in the classifieds. If you want to link the ads here to this thread, I am fine with that. I understand why people don't want to ship pieces, but you can state that in your ad and people outside the RDU area may be willing to drive out to pick it up.

    Please don't make me delete posts above.

    ***Edit: Time's up. Too bad, so sad.***
    Last edited by kung fu jesus; 09-04-2014 at 02:38 PM.

  6. #126
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Crossusn's Avatar
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    So, in the next two weeks I will have headers, a new custom catback exhaust, a roll bar, a harness bar and frame rails. The headers are on and the exhaust shop will do the rest but does anyone have experience/tools to install the roll bar and frame rails? I dont have tools or experience messing with body modification.
    2000 green ls
    Fortune Auto 500 coilovers
    DDM led bits
    OMP Corsica 330
    15x9 Advanti Storm S1
    225/45 BFG Rivals

  7. #127
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Pyr0monk3y's Avatar
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    The only uncommon tool you need for the roll bar is a right angle drill. Other than that, a normal hand drill, bits, some hammers, and wrenches are all you need. For the frame rails, make sure to paint or rust proof the bare metal after drilling the holes.
    Quote Originally Posted by tsingson View Post
    What the hell are you thinking Andy?
    1991 Track Rat
    Build Thread:
    Function>Everything


  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Pyr0monk3y For This Useful Post:

    tsingson (09-04-2014)

  9. #128
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    regular drill will work with a long bit

  10. #129
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Wrench is a must have for the lower seatbelt reel bolt. It cannot be put back on with a socket or adjustable wrench because the new rollbar sits in the way. We can into this problem on tonys car and it was a pain in the ass without the correct wrench.

  11. #130
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! AutOtaku's Avatar
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    I know this is kinda off topic but....
    Today around 4:30ish i saw a silver NA with what looked like a Cobalt/BSP dual low profile headlamp conversion driving down Kildare Farm Rd. in Cary, was this anyone on here? i popped my lights up but no reply.....
    1990 Honda CRX Si ~ Current DD
    1990 Mazda Miata ~ Current Project (FREE!)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    2000 VW Jetta GLX VR6- Interim while Speed6 was repaired~ Sold
    2006 MazdaSpeed 6- Engine Blown, then replaced ~ Sold (Good riddance)
    1996 Mazda Miata C-Package- "ShiroNeko"~ RIP
    1991 Honda CRX B18A1 Swap- "RedPanda"~RIP
    1993 Honda Civic Si hatch- "Suki"~Sold
    1971 Ford Maverick Grabber- "Trixie"~Never for sale

  12. #131
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    Got my seats installed. Tomorrow I work 6 hours. Depending on weather then im gonna give my car a quick wash and I need to vacume it out. After that I can get some pics of the install. With the way my driveway is I have grass everywhere inside my car now.

  13. #132
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crossusn View Post
    So, in the next two weeks I will have headers, a new custom catback exhaust, a roll bar, a harness bar and frame rails. The headers are on and the exhaust shop will do the rest but does anyone have experience/tools to install the roll bar and frame rails? I dont have tools or experience messing with body modification.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pyr0monk3y View Post
    The only uncommon tool you need for the roll bar is a right angle drill. Other than that, a normal hand drill, bits, some hammers, and wrenches are all you need. For the frame rails, make sure to paint or rust proof the bare metal after drilling the holes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Demon I Am View Post
    regular drill will work with a long bit
    For the rollbar, here are some tips:

    • I use a long drill bit it's 12 or 18" long. Most stores carry them, like Lowes, Home Depot, ACE. Make sure it is a bit for metal.
    • In one instance, the long bit was missing, so we use a long metal rod with a pointed end and punched through where we needed the rear holes to be, then drilled from below with a normal-length bit.
    • Tin snips are the quickest way to trim out the metal you need to remove to make the rear legs on the rollbar fit. If you want a clean cut, or clean the cut afterwards, a dremel is great for that.
    • Make sure the bar is centered in the car as close as possible before drilling the rear leg holes. I usually mount the bar loose, with the seatbelt reels installed, then tighten the seatbelt reel anchors when I have the bar centered to temporarily hold it in place. I usually get with in +/- 3mm. It can be VERY important later for adding a hardtop, door bars, or regular everyday softtop operation.
    • When you are installing the bar, make sure the car is on an even surface, tighten the mounting bolts at each corner incrementally, or you will be fighting the bar. You have to raise the car. If you can only raise the rear, make sure the car is fairly even side to side (i.e. both rear wheels are about the same distance off the ground)
    • Everyone has a certain level of execution on the trimming of the interior bits. If it has been a long day installing the bar, wait until the next day or when you have a fresher outlook before doing that. I have seen tired people rush this at the end of an installation and mess it up badly.
    • Buy a can of undercoating (aerosol) to coat the nuts, bolts and plates that are outside the car after installation.
    • With a buddy, you can do the installation in about 5-6 hours with simple tools. I have installed more of these than I can remember (9 or 10?), the hardest part is removing all the interior bits. I don't help people with anything interior-related, everyone has their own expectation/preferences of how they prefer their interior to be.



    For the frame rails, it is best to have all four wheels off the ground, as high as you can, in order to drill the floor from the bottom. The installation is pretty simple, just tedious. It helps immensely to have someone help you from inside the car when installing the bolts. A 3# hammer is the most useful tool for this job, especially if your current rails are mashed or damaged. That 3# hammer will shape those back to fit your overlays on them in no time. You will be a little alarmed how soft they are.

    Use the undercoating over the existing rails if you beat or shape them, test fitting the overlays first. Allow it to dry a bit, then install the overlays, undercoat everywhere you drilled or put a bolt through (inside and outside the car).

    Frame rail overlays should take you and a friend about 3-5 hours.

  14. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to kung fu jesus For This Useful Post:

    Crossusn (09-07-2014),Pyr0monk3y (09-07-2014),tsingson (09-06-2014),WASABI (09-07-2014)

  15. #133
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Crossusn's Avatar
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    Wow aweseome response man, thank you!!! I will definitely take my time and do it on level ground. I wouldn't have thought about that before.
    2000 green ls
    Fortune Auto 500 coilovers
    DDM led bits
    OMP Corsica 330
    15x9 Advanti Storm S1
    225/45 BFG Rivals

  16. #134
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The chassis will twist a little if it is grossly unlevel. Installing a rollbar on a car that is twisted like that makes everything harder to install and puts a lot of tension on the mounting points for the bar.

  17. #135
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power JLBMX5's Avatar
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    I am headed out to cary this weekend to have my seat back braces made . Anyone know anything about aluminum seats. Will a brace stop them from moving as much as they feel like they do and stop the top from hitting rollbar

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