Transmission Tunnel getting Hotttt!

[— kung fu jesus —]

Jturner, do you have the factory exhaust with all heat shields in tact? With the close proximity of components in the fr layout heat shields are not to be underestimated. Aftermarket setups that omit shields and/or increase piping diameter can have major downside effects. For example, I replaced my resonator with an aftermarket unit for cost considerations and I now overheat my gas tank on long drives, surpassing the evaporative system's ability to vent and raw fuel fumes fill the cabin. That's not roadster life

Are the fumes from the tank itself, or from the evap canister? If the latter, I just did a mod which made all the difference in the world. I ran a line from the evap canister to the back of the car, along the frame rail. My FM rail reinforcements made for convenient hanger points but even a stock rail could be made to work. Anyway, before the line, even with AC set on recirculate it was noxious in the cabin. With the line, it's all good! My wife dreaded longer drives before if the top was up, but now we have no fumes at all.

Paul, Tim's car was the one I tried using your info about your modification. It wasn't until I touched the top of his fuel tank after he returned from a long drive that I noticed how hot it had become. We had previously stripped the rear bulkhead to inspect the hoses and electricals there, then had him go on a long drive. Looking under the car, you could see the larger aftermarket midpipe and round canister right under the fuel tank. It was the only logical explanation.

I had also experienced something similar with a Miata endurance racecar. The exhaust had been damaged during a race and was bent closer to the tank. The tank was pressurizing immensely from the heat. When the car came in for fueling, the fuel was so hot and pressurized, it would geyser out of the filler neck when the fueling crew removed the cap.

[jturner92]

thanks everyone for the input. My car is all stock no mods just 168,000 miles on the clock. Looks like I am going to save up and this winter tear out the interior and lay down some heat and sound deadening.

[Pfunk]

When the car came in for fueling, the fuel was so hot and pressurized, it would geyser out of the filler neck when the fueling crew removed the cap.

Damn--that would get my attention!

[Pfunk]

thanks everyone for the input. My car is all stock no mods just 168,000 miles on the clock. Looks like I am going to save up and this winter tear out the interior and lay down some heat and sound deadening.

If this is any help, I went through Second Skin, and here are the amounts I used for my car when I did it:

3 sheets Thermal Block: $240
1 80 sq.ft. sheet Damplifier Pro: $386
3 sheets Luxury Liner Pro (365 sq.ft.): $540
3 rolls of foil insulation tape: $62

I share this to give you an idea of what is needed to do a fairly complete job for sound and heat, and what at least one company charges for its products. There are competitors, and I did as much research as I could before settling on Second Skin. Others might feel differently. I will say it made a very big difference in heat and noise.

[Jeffbucc]

I used second skin for their closed cell foam and their mass loaded vinyl. Really quality product. Little pricy, but worth it in the end.