Audio update:
I put the wire loom together temporarily to test the circuits and functions.
I also wired in an e-brake emulator. Usually you can ground this circuit out but the HU looks for this to cycle. It will not allow you to make interface changes unless it sees this, so this is a new wrinkle and this little bit was ~$10.
I don’t have all the finalized hardware and materials I need to do this as I want, so those are arriving Tuesday.
In the meantime, it works!
I will replace the butt connectors with solder and weatherproof heat shrink, also better bullet-style crimp connectors.
I will replace the speaker wire. One of the POs did a cheap & easy bypass of this car’s former Bose system and its a little janky. I did this on my 10ae and though probably overkill, it is peace of mind to me. I have a lot of quality 12g speaker wire, so I just need to fish it through.
I also measured my USB data port I plan to install in the center console. I drew up the profile in CAD and printed it. I will cut this out and tape it where I plan to make the cuts so it’s cleaner and I can look for obstructions.
The supplied chassis screws to attach the mount to the head unit are pan heads. They stick out too far and catch on the opening on the sides of the center stack. Fortunately, I found matching tapered screws to remedy this in my spare hardware.
Reply With Quote
