I'd avoid anything 14" for the miata like the plague because of the extremely limited tire selection (just how it is!)
I'd also NOT get the heavy 17 pound wheels.. no way!
My suggestion is to wait for a better 15x7 wheel that you like better!
I'd avoid anything 14" for the miata like the plague because of the extremely limited tire selection (just how it is!)
I'd also NOT get the heavy 17 pound wheels.. no way!
My suggestion is to wait for a better 15x7 wheel that you like better!
OK, so if you have to get this past your wife, you have to use "fuzzy logic". Explain that you need two sets of wheels. The Panasport for vintage car shows, and another set for daily/spirited driving. Tell here there is no way around it. You wish there was, but you just need two sets of wheels... then tell her how pretty she looks!
P.S. I'll send you the info you asked for tonight.
Went from an 8" 6UL w/ rs2 to the 14" +19 RPF1 w/ T1R. That dropped 8-9lbs per corner. Believe me, it's pretty noticeable. If only the sidewalls were stiffer...
As to 9" wheels having more grip, yes. If you autox or hit the track, the added grip will negate any weight gain associated with the wheel/tire combo.
'90 "LE" with red bits - 7/6 Flex, FM Front Bar, 14x7 +19 RPF1, PWR, SPAL, Maxim Works, Thermal R&D, HDHCSDM2, Zoom, Anvil II, 330mm mahogany Deep Corn, AC/PS delete, LE interior, attitude
'08.5 CWP MS3 GT - AST 4100, TriPoint Rear Sway and Links, JBR STS w/ bushings and lockout plate, Moddiction Anvil II
Lol that fuzzy logic worked that is why I got 1 running miata that is getting the LE interior, 1 going to be BRG and 1 donor. Now the sudden recent accumulation of parts somehow cleared out the fuzziness. I have to slow down and do some quick, accurately low expenditures or else the silent treatment will become deafening lol. I also have to start putting these parts together to make sense or else I may lose major spousal sponsorship. And the damn work schedule is not helping......Originally Posted by WASABI
Well, here are the pictures I promised. Sorry it took so long, it's been in the teens temperature wise (wind chill in the negative numbers) for the last couple weeks, and these were out in the garage.
Outside wheel measurement 16.25" (roughly)
Inside wheel measurement 14.50" (roughly)
Inside wheel depth, to mounting face 5.50" (roughly)
Wheel width 8" (roughly)
The cast type on the front of the wheel
Weight is 16 pounds a wheel.
16lbs and yet they are called Ultra Lights
I still love mine
You gotta weigh... if you wanna play!16lbs and yet they are called Ultra Lights
In an NA, wheel weight make a considerable difference, IMO.
I have run the gamut. Generally, I like to keep my wheel weight size UNDER 14#, but this is just my preference. The car I had ranged from 18# 15x7 Compomotive wheels to 8# 14" Watanabes. I also had a set of SSR Type C @ 10.2# at 15x7.5, 15x7 RPF1, Konig Wideopens, and a set of Rota C8s. Over 15#, the car begins to crash over bumps, frost heaves, and large cracks in the roads surface. Lighter wheels make the handling feel lighter, more agile, but it may only be a placebo.
Fourteen inch wheels sizing stinks, I moved away from the Wats primarily because of that.
16# is not that bad if you consider the stock 14" steelies are about that same weight and some 16" NB wheels are about the same. Buy what you like and enjoy it.
I guess I'm just spoiled by 13lb 15x7 wheels (which can be had for $94 a piece from TireRack - TRM C1)
From what I understand, the OP needs the rims to accommodate a big brake kit. I don't think you can fit Wilwood brakes in a 13" wheel. I would even think a 14" might be too small (depending on the rim).
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
