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Thread: Help me "build" by NC1 (2006)

  1. #1
    Idling - Listen to it purr...
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    Help me "build" by NC1 (2006)

    I am currently on the verge of purchasing a stock 2006 NC1 and after doing hours of research on various forums I would like to begin my modifications with suspension (shocks, springs and sway bars) upgrades.

    Even though I did a fair amount of research I am looking for some final input before I place my order. I have kind of laid out my choices for each part (shocks, springs and sway bars) below, but if you feel like I left out a good option please feel free to let me know.

    Also, keep in mind this car will be my daily driver 80% of the time. I am looking for a balance of improvement, but without sacrificing complete comfort.

    Finally, I am not interested in coil-overs at this time.

    Shocks
    Koni : ($580-$600) : Sports, I have pretty much decided on these as my shock choice.

    Springs
    Progress Technology : ($187) : Seem to be the popular choice, but too soft?
    Flyin' Miata : ($289) : Seem more aggressive, but too stiff?

    Sway Bars
    Progress Technology : ($349.00) : Seem more aggressive, but too much?
    Flyin' Miata : ($249.00) : Seem to be a popular choice
    Racing Beat : ($291.65) : Seem to be a popular choice
    Mazda : ($200.00) : MX-8

    It also appears that a few packages are options which would allow be to save a little money for further modifications.

    Packages
    Flyin' Miata Stage 1 : ($762.35) : Koni sports and FM springs
    Flyin' Miata Stage 2 : ($979.40) : Koni sports, FM springs and FM sway bars

    Finally, are their any other components I should consider? End-links? Bumpstops?

    Again, if I missed a choice you think I should consider, please let me know.

    Thank you for your help!

  2. #2
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum! The NC is a great platform to start out with!! They already handle excellent!! I recommend some basic performance mods like upgraded clutch, lighter flywheel, intake and exhaust, you will notice a great deal of improvement just with these simple bolt-ons


    where is unk577 at? this thread is all you man!

  3. #3
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Andy's Avatar
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    I am not sure how much money you want to spend but do some research on the rx8 yellow dot and red dot sway bars.

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    Supporting Member fwdtamiya's Avatar
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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Tkblazer's Avatar
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    Help me "build" by NC1 (2006)

    I second Randy's advice. I'd would drive it around for a bit and learn how the car drives. Then do one mod at a time so you can see how it effects the car

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    kung fu jesus (05-05-2014),Phatmiata (05-05-2014),WASABI (05-07-2014)

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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    ^ that.

    It seems best if you were able to drive a few other NCs to get some personal reference points so you can make a decision based on your needs and desires.

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    Phatmiata (05-05-2014)

  9. #7
    STAR Sponsor Unk577's Avatar
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    Why no coilovers? You elude to maybe later but why spend the money twice?

    If you want a better shock without investing too much why not pick up a set of 09+ Bilstein take offs.(I know where you can find a set cheap).

    I'm currently running V8roadster's DSD coilovers and their front and rear swaybars. They aren't necessarily well known but they perform very well. I have put about 6k miles on them and I'm very happy with the car's performance.

    What is your budget on a car? NC2's can be found for pretty good deals

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    Phatmiata (05-05-2014)

  11. #8
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    Just not trying to venture into coil-overs...might not ever on this car.

    I chose the Koni's because they seem to be popular and I have personally had good results with them in the past (on other cars).

    I am looking in the $12,500 range...I am going to look at one on Wednesday with 27,000 miles.

    Thanks to everyone for the input so far!

  12. #9
    STAR Sponsor Unk577's Avatar
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    You're close to the NC2 prices. Forged internals, upgraded trans, etc. I bought my 09' for $13k and change. I saw a 12' Touring the other for $16k but just went to look for it and it's gone.
    Last edited by Unk577; 05-05-2014 at 06:12 PM.

  13. #10
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Johnnie's Avatar
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    I have Flyin' Miata springs. They are not too stiff paired with Koni yellows.

    Low-rate aftermarket springs don't offer enough performance improvement (in my opinion) to be worth it. My car was on the bumpstops all the time with (the much-hated by m.net) Racing Beat springs which are approximately the same rate as (the much-loved by m.net) Progress springs.

    My first setup was Racing beat springs, Koni yellows, cut oem bumpstops, and Hotchkis bars. Even with the rebound damping maxed out, the car would heel over onto the bumpstops, the effective spring rate would shoot up and it would get all kinds of squirrely. Fat Cat bumpstops made it slightly more progressive, but it was still nervous. If I were to do low-rate springs again, I would do full-length oem stops so that the change from off the stops to on the stops would be less noticeable. A change to the less aggressive racing beat sway bars didn't really make much difference.

    Getting the car on the higher-rate springs and off the bumpstops made all the difference in the world.

    You can change the handling balance from tail-happy to neutral to pushy with negative camber easily on an NC.

    NC can be adjusted for more negative camber in the rear than the front, so if you're setting it up to go around corners quickly, set your front camber to the desired setting (max negative in my case, which is -2.5 deg), match the setting in the rear as a baseline. Add negative camber to the rear to balance it out. Too tail happy-- more negative in the rear.

    My last autocross (and daily) setup was this--

    Flyin' Miata springs, Koni yellows, FCM bumpstops, -2.5 camber front, -2.3-ish camber rear. Racing beat bars set full stiff front and full soft rear. 0 toe front and a little toe-in in the rear, whatever the recommended setting is.

    Next season will be the same, but front bar on middle position and more negative camber in the rear to balance it out. If that doesn't work, I'll go back to the previous setup, but I think I can unlock a little more front end grip with a little less sway bar up front.
    Last edited by Johnnie; 05-05-2014 at 08:01 PM.
    John Evans
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  14. #11
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Johnnie's Avatar
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    Unk's advice about the NC2 is spot-on, by the way. Forged internals equals higher redline equals fewer third gear upshifts on faster autocross courses. Add an aftermarket tune and you can rev even higher.
    John Evans
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  16. #12
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    I am leaning more and more towards the FM Stage 2 kit.

  17. #13
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Johnnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shb5007 View Post
    I am leaning more and more towards the FM Stage 2 kit.
    Probably the best bang for the buck.

    Soft aftermarket springs don't offer any tangible performance benefit. They will get rid of unsightly fender gap, though.
    John Evans
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