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Excellent!
I would shine a light down there between the condensor and the front of the car, look at the drier, too.
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Check the other parts of the engine bay and hood skeleton. See if if is coming from somewhere else.
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
will do, I will update you when I have some more info, thanks again for your help!!
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The Following User Says Thank You to MX595 For This Useful Post:
kung fu jesus (07-30-2014)
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
Parts should be here tmrw, couldn't find any other leaks along the hood skeleton as suggested, there is most def an apparent leak in the line though, hence the puddle
I bought the whole overhaul kit, any noticeable differences I could expect?
Like more sturdy pedal, cleaner shift, etc..
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Not really, you can expect the clutch to work again. The braided line eliminates another failure point and the overhaul should give you solid clutch hydraulics.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to kung fu jesus For This Useful Post:
MX595 (08-01-2014),Rogue (07-31-2014)
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
Well a working clutch is definitely helpful, was hoping it would be more like the brake lines and give a stiffer feel
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It does, but it is too long of travel in the clutch to feel it.
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
So i was given that braided line with the clutch overhaul kit...and have no idea where it is supposed to go, my stock lines were perfectly fine, so I left them in place
any comments on this?
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
ended up actually being the Master cylinder, I replaced both, still no idea why I was given the very short steel braided line
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Short line replaces the rubber line at the firewall.
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
maybe I'm lost a bit, my master is on the opposite side of the engine bay compared to the slave, sorry if i'm making this more complicated than it has to, but where does the line start? it seems to fit in 2 possible places
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IMG_8312 flex connection.jpg
The short clutch line is as shown partially here. This is looking at the fire wall on the passenger side, between the A/C lines and the back of the intake manifold. The hard line to the left goes up and over to the clutch master. The flexible line then connects to the hard line you connected to the clutch slave. It is very much like replacing brake lines, but harder to reach. If you have flare wrenches, use them.
FWIW, the long line starts here at the terminus of the clutch cylinder's hard line and REPLACES the hard line to the clutch slave.
The reason the long line is generally preferred is because it makes replacing the clutch slave MUCH easier, is easier to install than a short line, and also if you have to yank the motor.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to kung fu jesus For This Useful Post:
MX595 (08-18-2014),tsingson (08-18-2014)
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
Thank you very much, now I understand, next issue, hopefully easily solved is, I have found what i think is a leak in the Master cylinder, any idea how to mend this?
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
The seal at the marked area in the picture is non existent, you can wiggle and see fluid come out
It is brand new
Last edited by MX595; 08-18-2014 at 03:55 PM.
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