Tree's Roadster

[treeafodo]

On Wednesday I brought a few parts in to school to sand blast. These are the battery hold downs that are bolted to the trunk floor.
Rusty Hold Down by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
No More Rust by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

I didn't get a lot done in that lab because when I mounted the engine to the stand the first time around I accidentally mounted the lower arms through the oil pan. Didn't even notice that until I went to take the pan off.... So I had to change the arms and threads they would go into. I also spent quite a bit of time blueprinting a block that my teacher wanted done. After all that was said and done I was able to remove the Oil pan, pick up tube and windage tray to reveal the main caps.
Oil Pan Removed by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

6 bolt mains. No biggy.
6 Bolt Mains by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

I didn't touch the car yesterday. I actually did some maintenance on the Integra. Oil change and a new wheel bearing. Still waiting on the last wheel bearing to come in.
After work today I did more work to the trunk.
Bare Metal Trunk by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

All I'm doing in the mean time is grinding surface rust off and covering it up with a rust paint. Nothing special, I just need to cover the bare metal so that it won't rust again between now and when the car gets stripped down, primed and painted.
Painted Trunk by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

[treeafodo]

On Sunday I went out snowboarding and made it a point to pick up the retainers that Texas Speed sent to me to correct their mistake.

Titanium <3
Titianium Retainers by Austin Rajki, on Flickr


Oh and I also purchased a legit set of wheels. Rip- Bank Account.

[treeafodo]

I ordered more parts today.

From Summit Racing:
ARP 2000 Rod Bolts

From Texas Speed and Performance:
OEM Main bolt/stud kit
OEM LSX Lifter trays

From Jegs:
Freeze plug kit

I am also purchasing a set of OEM GM high performance lifters. Regular price is approximately $650 USD for them. I'm getting them brand new off my engines teacher for $350 Canadian. These were purpose built from GM for their race crate engines which had a high lift cam. They're designed for high RPM usage and won't slouch on the job.

You might be wondering why I went with the OEM main bolt/stud kit rather than ARP studs. Well, everything I've read and heard on the phone while talking to companies says that the stock bottom end is good to 600+ WHP other than the rod bolts which are good for about 450 whp. Even then main failures are very rare even with 700+ hp spray builds. The OEM bolt/stud kit is less than 1/3 the price of the ARP kit and will work for my build. I'm aiming for 450-500whp NA so the OEM mains are more than strong enough to handle what I need without any concern.

Today I removed the pistons and rods out of the engine.
Pistons and Rods Removed by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

I haven't taken any measurements yet, but there is no doubt in my mind that this engine was well maintained. These are the old rod bearings that have 128k miles on them.
Old Rod Bearings by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

Almost completely bare block
Empty Bores by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

Again this engine has 128k miles on it. There is no ring ridge at all in any of the cylinders, and you can still see cross hatch from the hone. PS- that isn't scoring, it is the way the cell phone flash is hitting it.
Cross Hatched Hone by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

The crank is mint too. Pretty much just going to give it a polish and call it a day. I will measure just to double check.
Bare Crank by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

[treeafodo]

Already got word that all the parts I ordered last night have shipped. As long as I get them before engines lab on Wednesday I'm good

[treeafodo]

I went snowboarding again yesterday. On my way back I picked up some parts that arrived at my american address.

The one from Jegs is on the left, Summit Racing is on the right.
Packages by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

Candy <3 Thanks Jegs!
Contents by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
ARP 2000 Rod Bolts by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

The chocolate covered gummy bears sound weird, but weren't too bad actually. The package tells you which color is what flavour, but they all look the same...
Chocolate Covered Gummy Bears by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

Between my engines lecture and my Fuels lecture my engines teacher was in the lab, so I was able to get some work done. I paid him the $350 for the lifters and I got to work. The main seal cover was a bit of a pain to remove because of the way the stand is, but I managed.

Main Caps Removed
Main Caps Removed by Austin Rajki, on Flickr
Main Caps Removed by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

The main bearings weren't bad, but will be replaced. The thrust bearing had a few marks, but the crank was good.
Main Bearings by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

The old lifters and lifter trays are out as well. Unless things fall through, I have a buyer set up for them.
Lifters and Trays by Austin Rajki, on Flickr

Then after removing the timing assembly I was able to remove the crank and camshaft. For those of you who don't know, when storing a crankshaft for a long period to time it should be stored standing up to prevent warping. I bolted the flexplate onto it to prevent the chance of it falling over.
I pretty much worked my small lunch break away so I had to rush to class after that.
Table Top by Austin Rajki, on Flickr