The slow KLLKWTHPU Build.

[N7Prime]

Hey there peeps and peepetes. I copied this from another forum, hoping to continue there and here as well.

I got this car so I could do my college auto classes with something to do. Hey, if another classmate is building his 600+ AWHP Audi S4 in the classes AND gaining credit to do so. Why not me in the Kirby car?

Here it is. 210k + Mile body with a 160k+ mile engine (there or a bouts), original top (I think) . But in good condition. Hopefully I can fit a Roll bar WITH a welded in Harness bar due to the fact I have a glass rear window. I heard it was possible.

I'm going to build it for the track mostly although it will be a daily driver of sorts. Not really a garage queen (if you can call it that). Unlike other things, racing never goes out of style. Function=Form for me.

My plans are as follows.

Built long block.

Forced induction of SOME kind

Mega squirt PNP ECU.

New seat. (Cheap Authentic FIA Approved bucket seat.)

New steering wheel.

A crapton of bracing.

Willwood BBK. (Hopefully.)

Still deciding on coilovers.

ETC.

[Johnnie]

I think Corbeau or OMP are your go-to for the cheapest FIA approved seat. Looking forward to your build.

[— kung fu jesus —]

I love track builds.

If I may be the voice of experience, focus on the reliability and safety of the car before the performance pieces like big brakes, F/I, etc. If you are new to the track or not, it is no fun trying to make sure the car is keeping together while trying to learn to drive the track faster.

Dual purpose cars are always a compromise, but not impossible.

[— Phatmiata —]

Welcome, where are you from? How about some photos of your miata project.

[N7Prime]

My bad. Here are some pics.

Let me just get this straight from the giggity get go.....although I'm saying this in post 10.

Don't expect this thread to contain 'Cheap' parts. Or 'Race inspired' parts. (I'll have an FIA approved seat in the car, not one that LOOKS like one.)

I'm buying stuff that will work hopefully the first time I put them in the car.

The only Riceland part I'd even consider putting in the car is the header. People have had luck with it. But since I'll go F/I, I won't do it anyway.

If my only priority is to go really low and drive slowly to avoid a stray poptart on the road. Ricelands are for me I guess.

However since I want to track this car eventually. I'll go higher quality.

[N7Prime]

I went in to rebuild the shifter, change the tranny fluid and diff fluid. I bought the entire shifter kit to do so from 5xracing, Instead of the plastic bushing that goes at the end of the shifter I bought the bronze bushing instead to reduce shifter play. Wasn't expecting much going into this.
















































O....kay. I understand that both these shifter boots go bad in these cars constantly. But these boots looked original to the car. The upper one. Shown above. And a smaller one below sealing the shifter turret.

Both were obliterated.

Here's a side by side between the new and old Upper boot.



Oh well. I was Glad to do this now than later.

I took off the lower boot to look at the condition of the turret fluid. There should be about 4 Ounces of fluid in there. Or enough to just cover the shifting mechanism.






































Nothing. As dry as a chick who's paying for dinner.

It's a good chance that this is the first time this transmission (and diff.) has been serviced in its lifetime. Both the Trans and diff fluid were dark brown.

It looked like feces.

Here's a pic of the shifter itself with the lower boot still attached. The thread on the shifter are cross threaded but I don't mind this YET because my shift knob still fits tightly on it. When The time comes, I'll replace that as well.



The plastic anti rotation bushing had literally disintegrated. Here is a pic of what was left of it after picking it out of the shifter itself.



I don't have any pics after that. But after everything was put together.

OMG. The shifting was...the same.

Huh.

Don't get me wrong the new Bronze bushing and the new OEM parts really made everything tighter overall. BUT.

I wanted my shifting to get smoother with the new fluid in the trans (and shifter turret.)

It was kinda disappointing.

Fast forward about two weeks and the shifting has MASSIVELY improved since then.

All that was needed was the new fluid working its way into the syncros by driving it a lot.

I am happy.

The fluid I used was Redline MT-90 GL4 for the trans and Redline 70w90 for the diff. Both are Synthetic.

[N7Prime]

Got new parts yo homie ballin keepin it real yolo hayhay.



Flyin Miata Frame Rail reinforcements, Clutch hydraulic rebuild kit including steel braided hose. A new speedo cable and stickers.

STICKERS!

[N7Prime]

That was my reaction while driving the car with the FM braces for the first time.

Get them.

Seriously.

The two main reasons I bought this were to PROTECT the frame rails and also stiffen the chassis.

I also replaced the speedo cable so now its a lot quieter and the needle no longer does the goofy goober.

The hardest part of the frame rail install was banging out the massive dent on the passengers side rail. The dent was next and below the fuel and brake lines.

[N7Prime]

So I changed the plugs and wires.
















I was very suprised on how much of a difference this made. And I'm planning on going COP's in the future. So much smoother and a VERY noticeable increase in power as well.

[Johnnie]

There's horsepower in them th'ar stickers. MT90 GL4 is the good stuff.

[N7Prime]

I don't have many complaints about it but I just purshased some Ford MTF. I'm going to try that out.

[N7Prime]

I changed all the clutch Hydraulics today.

Here is what the fluid looked like.





I figured since the fluid looked like a bunch of poopy ass farts covered in chocolate feces, the seals in the master and slave cylinders were shot as well.

I changed out everything and replaced the rubber hose and the curly Q hard line with a stainless steel braided line from 949 racing.

The pedal now feels consistent throughout its whole travel and the shifting is a lot smoother now.

[N7Prime]

Here is a followup to that with pics of the old plugs. The wire boots were brown aswell.



This, the shifter and the clutch has got me wondering.

How long has it been since the timing belt was done?

[N7Prime]

Before I forget. Another thing I did was replace my front speakers. They were non functional when I got them.



So I replaced the Hydro Thunder edition speakers with some cheap Pioneers from best buy.



The radio isn't one of the biggest concerns of mine in this car. These speakers do the job just fine. I'm happy.

[N7Prime]

Maintenance first. Period.

Wouldn't my car look sweet though with coilovers and Enkei RPF01's on a tow truck?

The last 'major' maintenance issue I have to resolve is the timing belt. The condition is unknown to be, but I am grateful that The BP isn't an interference engine. (Until I get done with it.)

Next is my suspension. ALL the boots are torn. I'll be replacing those boots. (And ball joints if they are bad.)

Overhaul EVERYTHING with Poly. (except for the engine mounts.)

Get Coilovers. (Leaning towards Tein.)

Roll fenders.

Wheels and tires.

And than some loose ends.

FINALLY I'll start on the drive train.