Engine warbling

[—RuckkehrMiata—]

So I already know I have a metric f**kload of maintenance I have put off, I am totally aware of that. This thread is to help me determine what to do first.


The other night, I parked my car and let it idle while I ran into the apartment to drain the oil (with the car being watched of course). When I came back, the expected heat soak lifter tick was present. I am used to this, it happens, HLAs suck.

However, when I went to start driving something new happened. My car started shuffling like a WRX or subby motor. This went on until around the time the lifter tick went away from driving. This of course worried me.

What are common causes, so I can target my first round of maintenance. I am thinking it's likely related to plugs/wires because I already know those are shot (every time I come to stop from harder driving, I get the bad plug/wire rough idle for a few seconds)

Just looking for input.

[— Phatmiata —]

Vacuum leak?

Also you have an 89 so watch for the infamous bent crank

[—RuckkehrMiata—]

Bent crank??

I certainly $*#$ hope not. But I would think that would continue the bad running instead of go away.

[— Phatmiata —]

Just a WAG

[90blue]

Yea wires, once a year. Or change over to COPs and a dwell reducer.
The original hlas were updated somewhat, you may want to update these.
Also the type and grade of oil will help with the tic.

[NCGreasemonkey]

I hate do diag. without the car in-front of me but...

You're warm weather area. Twist the plug wires, with the engine off, to release them from the plugs. Gently until you feel them turn. Then pull them free. Look for ghost tracks up the side of the part that runs into the spark-plug tube. That would be side-arcing.

Second, pull the plugs and look for black carbon trails up the upper, porcelain, section of the plug. Will look like someone took a No. 2 light-saber to it. That is side tracking.

If either. Replace both plugs and wires with good, not what the counter person says, parts! If neither, pm me. I own Subies and an MX NA. Also worked on cars, for a living, since I was 16. 46 now.

[—RuckkehrMiata—]

Yea wires, once a year. Or change over to COPs and a dwell reducer.
The original hlas were updated somewhat, you may want to update these.
Also the type and grade of oil will help with the tic.

Cops are absolutely in my future, I just want to wait until I have a MS before I get them.

[—RuckkehrMiata—]

I hate do diag. without the car in-front of me but...

You're warm weather area. Twist the plug wires, with the engine off, to release them from the plugs. Gently until you feel them turn. Then pull them free. Look for ghost tracks up the side of the part that runs into the spark-plug tube. That would be side-arcing.

Second, pull the plugs and look for black carbon trails up the upper, porcelain, section of the plug. Will look like someone took a No. 2 light-saber to it. That is side tracking.

If either. Replace both plugs and wires with good, not what the counter person says, parts! If neither, pm me. I own Subies and an MX NA. Also worked on cars, for a living, since I was 16. 46 now.

Honestly considering the age of the plug and wires I think I am just going to replace them anyways. Going to get some NGKs (obvious) but torn between Ultras and Magnecore for the wires.

[NCGreasemonkey]

Have not run the Magnas, yet. And not trying to steer you to a brand. But if you go under any of the top auto parts houses websites in the country they will have one brand marked import direct. I tend to have the best luck with those when the customer doesn't want to use OEM. Hope that fixes you up.

[—RuckkehrMiata—]

Have not run the Magnas, yet. And not trying to steer you to a brand. But if you go under any of the top auto parts houses websites in the country they will have one brand marked import direct. I tend to have the best luck with those when the customer doesn't want to use OEM. Hope that fixes you up.

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../Ignition.html

Whats your input on the plugs/wires here?

[— kung fu jesus —]

The Subie/boxer engine sound is one of the cylinders not firing.

I would use NGK blue wires. The rest really aren't any better to justify the added cost.

Take a video with your phone, put it in YouTube, share the link.

[NCGreasemonkey]

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../Ignition.html

Whats your input on the plugs/wires here?

If GWR sells it it works and works well. At least EVERYTHING I have gotten from them has... Flawlessly!