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Thread: Drivers window leakage

  1. #1
    The Technical Guy RuckkehrMiata's Avatar
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    Drivers window leakage

    Wondering how other people have dealt with the leak in the top of the window before.

    My seal isn't "deflated" like people usually get, however a very good portion of water makes it in and into my seat. Typically only in a heavy steady rain, or when I am at the car wash. Seems to come in where the a pillar meets the drivers window.

    Just trying to avoid the multi-$100 seals for as long as possible.
    `89 NA build: 二回目 My (defunct) `92 NA build: Ruckkehr

  2. #2
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Rogue's Avatar
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    First thing to do is wipe the rubbers with Vaseline.

    If that doesn't fix it up, check the door fitment.
    Also window and top has lots of adjustment.

    Just be careful washing your car, because we all hear it never rains in Cali! ;)
    1992 BnT, 93LE #737, 94M, 95M, 96M, 97PEP, and a few 90s

  3. #3
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    No, by all means no vaseline to rubber seals. It will temporary "fix" it, but it deteriorates rubber. Best thing to use is a specialized product (I use and LOVE Autoglyms' vinyl and rubber care, have heard rumors about gummi pflege being even better). At minimum, use a silicone spray. As Rogue mentioned though, there's a million of adjustments you can make; hood latches, striker plates, weatherstripping "channels", doors, windows.

  4. #4
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    I have heard also that Auto Tranny Fluid is good for rubber.

  5. #5
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Best thing to use is a specialized product (I use and LOVE Autoglyms' vinyl and rubber care, have heard rumors about gummi pflege being even better). At minimum, use a silicone spray.
    Gummi pfedge is burned in a German auto owners' vocabulary. I use silicone spray on the BWM to help the seals release from the glass when the power windows are activated.

  6. #6
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Rogue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Best thing to use is a specialized product (I use and LOVE Autoglyms' vinyl and rubber care, have heard rumors about gummi pflege being even better).
    Thanks, Good to know there is something better……Although I have been using PJelly for over 30 years.
    Where would one find gummi pflege?
    1992 BnT, 93LE #737, 94M, 95M, 96M, 97PEP, and a few 90s

  7. #7
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Open door and lift it from the latch end. If it moves up and down hinge pins and bushings are worn. If not look at that rubber block on the lower part of your car's body that helps seat the door. If it flexes now is the time to upgrade to stiffer! M2C!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

  8. #8
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone RustRat's Avatar
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    That could possibly explain why my drivers side seal is leaking. O replaced my door, but it sits too low, it bangs on the metal hoop thing that locks the door, and the two bolts on the underside scuffed my Roadster sill covers.

  9. #9
    The Technical Guy RuckkehrMiata's Avatar
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    My drivers door definitely has a little play in it, noticed that when it started not always closing all of the way unless I was fully paying attention. I don't know how to adjust that unfortunately, not something I have had to do in 5 years of ownership.

    I just have a hard time believing it is the seals really because they all still feel fine. As in they are not flaking/giving off a residue or anything. I mean they are old, but they aren't dry rotting or anything.
    `89 NA build: 二回目 My (defunct) `92 NA build: Ruckkehr

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