You too Danny? As soon as I saw Chad's, I went straight to Craigslist.
You too Danny? As soon as I saw Chad's, I went straight to Craigslist.
theothersawyer (01-29-2017)
Lol, you sound like me after looking at a build thread on something i like or have wanted to get.
I think this is pretty common for car guys.
Shelby does not ride as well as the 97m even as low as it was on Feal's 12k/8k BUT Shelby is just on Eibach lowering springs and oem struts that are undoubtedly blown, not a good combo. The 01 Bullitt i had was well sorted and rode pretty good, imo, with fantastic handling.
To be honest, I'm a v8 guy at heart and while I love miata's and plan to get another...i plan and am sure Shelby will keep me happy!
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
Agent☣Orange (01-29-2017),Martin (01-29-2017),NCGreasemonkey (01-29-2017),tsingson (01-29-2017)
Was not chastising you. Just you are more OCD at repairs than I am.
Those lead terminals are good. Not replacement cables. And I agree with the thin metal vs. heavy lead swap out. But don't just clamp the 2 - 4 Ga. wire in the bolted clamp. Two options are better IMO through the years.
One is to remove battery and once you bolt down the heavy cable to those clamps. Wrap the insulator with wet shop towels and micro-torch and solder the union with a piece of heat shrink, slipped well below the heat, slide up to cover the exposed wire.
Better bet is to get some crimp-style ignition terminals. (Gauged to match your wire) Crimp them on. Micro-torch them to solder. Slip heat shrink up. and mount those to the two bolts for the clamp. I usually flip the clamp so there is less opening for corrosion to evolve. Again remove the battery as the micro-torch has flame and the batery has hydrogen gas.
Dielectric grease is the minimum if you are just clamping the copper core wire in the terminals.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
And the Alternator is the most common cause of the Batt. light. But if you can check the circuit between the alt. and dash first it will prove the fault.
Peace fellow nut!
No matter what you go with. Pull the battery. I don't want anyone covered in acid burns during a repair!
The secondary Chad was that I spotted. A flat black and red NA local and he as been PM'ing me but cannot post. His 2 month old is in Brenner's Children's Hospital. Just wish them the best!
Last edited by NCGreasemonkey; 01-29-2017 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Missed some safety tips. And clarification on the second Chad.
Greasemonkey2000 (01-30-2017),HarryB (01-30-2017)
I aways like to read Rick's post. Most of the other posts in here are in plain English I can read, understand and reply back to. Rick's post, on the other hand, always seem to be written in the way Americans talk (well, not all of you, I hope you get what I mean). So they are a chance to witness the culture differences from within.
Back to Chad's thread now. I love the things you do in the Mustang. I always felt the modifications and your general plan for the Miata were an adaptation of the muscle car tuning to a Japanese little car, with all the brushed surfaces etc. it was different and I loved it. Can't wait to see where this project goes now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Greasemonkey2000 (01-30-2017),NCGreasemonkey (01-30-2017),Slampen (01-30-2017),tsingson (01-30-2017)
@NCGreasemonkey: I see. Actually the terminals were a temporary fix because I really don't like that type. This is what I plan to replace them with: http://www.americanmuscle.com/batter...-positive.html
I do need to pick up heat shrink of varying sizes. I normally use dielectric grease but couldn't find mine but i put the red battery anti corrosion grease on the post. Thanks for the clarification, Rick, and hints/tips as you have far more experience/knowledge with automobile repair than I do.
@Rustrat: I see what you are saying Peter and i don't expect Rick to change his post style for me but if giving advice/tips it is best if it is understandable. Thanks for the support as usual! You know the muscle car influence was indeed present on Warbird, I just never looked at it that way...mostly because my intention/inspiration was mostly aviation based. I actually considered doing a similar path on Shelby but I figured it was best not 'to beat a dead...' well you know how it goes but for the sake of Shelby I won't finish the saying.
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
HarryB (01-30-2017),NCGreasemonkey (01-30-2017),RustRat (01-30-2017),theothersawyer (01-30-2017)
I have had the predecessor to these on the late Sq stereo build for over ten-years.
http://www.scosche.com/efxbtcud08
You can find them at most places that sell amplifiers. Parent company is Scosche but the packaging will normally read EFX.
Greasemonkey2000 (01-30-2017)
@NCGreasemonkey: Looks even better! A bit pricier but eBay can help there for anyone interested in them:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EFX-EFXBTC...146?nav=SEARCH
How exactly do they secure to the post?
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
They have an internal Allan (hex) bolt. The one's I have were gold plated with the plastic covers. You can do better than E-Bay if you head to your local stereo shop, Best-Buy or WallyWorld most of the time. All normally have Scosche products in the accessories section of audio. No shipping.
I got mine from a high-end store back in the day. Also got this item that has never been attached or charged. Guess if anyone wants a display for a museum I have you one that did not go up in flames.
Yes, it is the 20 Farad and has the optional remote voltage gauge. LOL
02-01-17: Well Shelby and I have officially solidified our bond with the first washing/semi-detailing, followed by some pics I took in a near by parking lot.
I just wanted to get some pics of Shelby as I bought her, minus the UPR billet aluminum light knob/bezel, even though the mods may take a while to really get started...I do have a few that I am about to do...little stuff for the most part.
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
Agent☣Orange (02-01-2017),tsingson (02-01-2017)
02-01-17, cont'd:
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
Agent☣Orange (02-01-2017),freedomgli (02-24-2017),NCGreasemonkey (02-01-2017),tsingson (02-01-2017)
That's pretty!
Greasemonkey2000 (02-01-2017)
Looks good Chad!
Greasemonkey2000 (02-01-2017)
Like the color combo!
Greasemonkey2000 (02-01-2017)
Thanks Danny!
Appreciate it Anthony!
Thanks Rick! I was looking at someone's IG account and saw a few pics of Eleanor from Gone in Sixty Seconds, the latest version, and it looks like Eleanor wore a hue very similar to Shelby's Dark Shadow Grey...thought that was pretty cool.
Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 02-01-2017 at 10:39 PM.
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
NCGreasemonkey (02-01-2017),tsingson (02-04-2017)