66mm +/- 6mm is what I found.
66mm +/- 6mm is what I found.
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
Agent☣Orange (09-20-2020),Bryan (09-20-2020),HarryB (09-21-2020),kung fu jesus (09-20-2020),lifebyevan (09-19-2020),MiataQuest (09-20-2020)
Its all online. We have the links to mellens.net bookmarked on the forum here. Download it and save it to the cloud, pull it up on a tablet in you garage or on your phone. They are big PDFs.
I have used a level app on my phone and eyeballed it on mine when I had my PPF loose for diff bushings a year or two ago.
Mellens is down, sadly. I went through the wayback machine to try to find a good copy, but half the PDF's aren't readable
EDIT: that was from the 2005 FSM. The 99-01 FSM is here.
Last edited by Bryan; 09-20-2020 at 08:06 AM.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
Agent☣Orange (09-29-2020),Bryan (09-20-2020),HarryB (09-21-2020)
Taking Thursday off to wrench on the car. Hopefully it goes well!
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
HarryB (09-30-2020),kung fu jesus (09-29-2020)
Good luck & remember...
I'll try to. Just want to at least try to reassure myself that things are OK.
I bought helpers and spacers, but I think I'm going to send them back. There's not enough separation to put them on as is, and without buying new collars and sleeves, I can't put the perches low enough to put them on. I suspect that my coilovers came with the All-Star sleeves, which were designed to be reversible to essentially allow them to sit higher or lower on the stock circlip. Unfortunately, I cut them, so I'm stuck with whatever height they're at and I really don't want to pay $100 and change to replace something else on this damn thing, lol
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
The helpers are meant to be compressed under static load and help the main spring stay in its place under droop.
I know, but the compressed helper plus spacer is thicker than the space between the spring and top hat at full droop, much less when the car is on the ground.
In other words, the helpers physically won't fit even when the suspension is at full droop without buying different sleeves and perches.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
How much gap is there at full droop?
Is it safe to say there is no more room to lower the perch to accommodate?
How much does the car raise if you preload the springs at droop to keep them in place?
Im recalling having this discussion about this before...I think?
Here's a quick pic.
There's less than an inch (eyeballing it...half inch, tops) at full droop.
Perch is about as low as it will go (within my comfort level).
I'm not sure how much the car would go up if I pre-loaded it. I'd be even more curious how much it'd mess up camber numbers if I did.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
Ok. So if the springs are rattling under droop, the easy solution is to pick up that droop slack by raising the collars and add 1-3 revolutions of preload.
If you are worried about camber, the value proposition is raised ride height and a new alignment versus the clanking under droop.
Raising the ride height will add a little positive camber to your static alignment and toe.
To retain a lower or current ride height you would need shorter springs plus the tender springs and spacer.
Whats you biggest grief and priority?
Looking at that pic, it looks like the spring is rubbing the treaded sleeve? If so the sleeve is either walking (wobbling) at the top, or spring is hitting it under a condition. I remember Ground Control sleeves used to use o-rings on their sleeves to prevent them from walking.
What is the length of the fully compressed tender spring and spacer? And what is the length of the area between the perches (upper and lower) with the shock fully extended?
The part number on that spring is a Summit Racing spring, 2.5 x 7 500#
+1 on everything that Steven said. A quick test for your noise issues would be to wind up the collars just to test before spending any more cash. The looks and alignment will not be ideal, but will give you an idea if that's the issue or not. If you mark the current perch position you will be able to go back to your current state too. The rubbing might be the real issue tho; check if the sleeve rattles against the shock. If it does, you can add a layer of electrical tape on the shock and slide the sleeve over to account for the slack.
Also, I do not see any reasonable way to get a helper in there other than shorter main springs OR turned down sleeves so they can go lower on the circlip/body.