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Thread: Graeter`s Build Thread

  1. #1
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Graeter`s Build Thread

    History:
    I am new to the miata community, but not new to cars. I had a couple cars, but the most notable was my previous fun car. A 2002 subaru WRX which I bought when I turned 18 and I sold it the beginning of my sophmore year of college for money reasons. It was pretty well built, stage 3 turbo setup with a bunch of goodies, built suspension/brakes and race rubber. This is the first car I have raced and definitely missed:



    I then bought a protege5 from my uncle for a great price. I threw some springs on it, made it flush and drove it for two years as an "ultimate daily driver vehicle," which never became close to ultimate:


    The Start:
    Well, I missed racing way to much and gave the protege5 to my little sister for her to use in college. The miata, I bought the in real rough exterior shape with 180k miles but absolutely rust free. I actually took a suspension bolt off the chassis and it came off with metal flakes on it from the initial time it was put in! The paint was badly faded, softtop was torn, taillight busted, front bumper was improperly repainted with flaking clearcoat and the back bumper had a gouge in it. I didn`t even take a picture because of how crappy it looked but looking back, I should have.

    Well I started off buffing the car and it came back pretty well. The single stage paint is fantastic although the original owner def. didn`t know how to buff because around the cracks, it was burned through before I started. I then shaved all the emblems, painted the mirrors, front bumper, back bumper and rear finish panel because of the horrible fading. Had to replace a bunch of misc. little stuff and maintenance. Here are some pictures after a couple initial mods and I could finally happily say this is my car:





    I thought it cleaned up pretty well. It is now definitely a great start for a track/autoX toy. It is not going to be built like a showcar, but it will still be somewhat clean.

    Up to Date Stuff:
    Modifications:
    - Flat black hardtop (will be painted red in springtime)
    - Touge Run front lip
    - TSIs
    - Moss Motors Rear Antenna
    - Voodoo Shift Knob
    - Wiggy`s Shiftie
    - HDHCM2HDDD Rollbar with SFI padding
    - Custom Hardtop Brackets
    - Custom Sturdy as hell License Plate Bracket
    - Free intake I made from parts lying around
    - RyokuRob`s front tow hook in red

    Weight Reduction:
    - Rear Carpet Removed
    - Soft-top Removed
    - Power Steering Removed
    - A/C Removed

    Modifications waiting to go in:
    - Cheap ebay Steering Wheel with hub and quick disconnect
    - 27mm adjustable front sway-bar
    - 19mm adjustable rear sway-bar
    - 949 Racing End-links
    - Energy Suspension Control Arm Bushings

    Near Future:
    - Wheels/Tires
    - Seats
    - Harnesses
    - Coilovers
    - Paint Hardtop Red
    - Become a better driver

    Distant Future: Full out track car
    - Full LSX Swap (going to learn to be a muchhhh better driver first)
    - Remove as much as I can
    - Ridiculous list of things I want to do

    Most up to date photo:
    The car in winter mode:


    I`ll keep this updated, but mainly wanted to be able to keep track of it somewhere and like sharing things.

  2. #2
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Only picture I have of the rollbar installed so far:

    One of the hardtop brackets:

    Free homemade intake:

    Wiggy`s Shiftie:

    I wire wheeled, sanded and re-painted these swaybars. Came out pretty good I think:

    Last edited by Graeter; 01-08-2012 at 12:36 PM.

  3. #3
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Just bought 2 5pt Simpson racing harnesses and a rear tow hook. Now to buy those seats, coilovers, wheels/tires and brakes. . .

  4. #4
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! XCLR8TN's Avatar
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    1991 BRG Miata, 1991 White Miata
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    What brakes are you going with?
    *Jess*
    1991 White Mazda Miata
    1991 BRG Mazda Miata LS6 swap coming soon (getting close!)

  5. #5
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Quote Originally Posted by XCLR8TN View Post
    What brakes are you going with?
    I think for the meantime, I`m just going to go Napa rotors with XP8s/10s. Until I do more power, that should definitely be sufficient.

  6. #6
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Titus's Avatar
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    1992 Sunburst, 1993 LE
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    Looking really good so far, and I love your old P5.

    Quote Originally Posted by Graeter View Post
    Modifications waiting to go in:
    - Cheap ebay Steering Wheel with hub and quick disconnect
    - 27mm adjustable front sway-bar
    - 19mm adjustable rear sway-bar
    - 949 Racing End-links
    - Energy Suspension Control Arm Bushings
    Be careful with that steering wheel...

    '92 Sunburst- www.v6miata.com
    '93 LE- officially the wife's car, but usually my daily driver

  7. #7
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Haha thanks... Yea I`ve seen that video before. I bought it for cheap and figured if it wasn`t pretty sturdy then I wouldn`t put it in. The one I get actually seem relatively strong. Can I bend it? Most likely if I really tried, but without getting into a major accident, I don`t think it will bend.

    I appreciate the video though

  8. #8
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    1999 Twilight Blue/1991 Mariner Blue
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    If you're planning to track and autox the car I wouldn't trust the steering wheel. Never know when something can happen. Just a thought.
    Paul | IG- @psulja
    Build thread:
    1991 Mariner Blue - Built 1.8 swap, EFR, Fab9Tuning, Tii drivetrain

  9. #9
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! MartyMcfly's Avatar
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    Hop on Amazon and buy a real MOMO or Sparco. My 330mm suede D was $200 and the leather Montecarlo was $170. I'm never buying anything shitty again.

    Gonna get a Nardi next and two quick releases so I can swap them out as I please.

  10. #10
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Quote Originally Posted by psulja View Post
    If you're planning to track and autox the car I wouldn't trust the steering wheel. Never know when something can happen. Just a thought.
    I`ll have to look at it again when I get home. I`m not gonna use the ebay quick release, I think that looks sketchy as hell. Its not the nardi knock off, its the Momo team steering wheel knockoff. Its got some good weight to it, and I have done real analysis testing in our shop with stress tests of previous ebay knockoffs of other things vs. real and have got almost exactly the same results for those. Some knockoffs aren`t too bad from a structural standpoint, but look much worse with stitches etc. I`m also not oblivious to shitty knockoffs either. I know they are out there which is why I am debating doing some testing on it. We will see if I get some time to do one.
    Quote Originally Posted by MartyMcfly View Post
    Hop on Amazon and buy a real MOMO or Sparco. My 330mm suede D was $200 and the leather Montecarlo was $170. I'm never buying anything shitty again.

    Gonna get a Nardi next and two quick releases so I can swap them out as I please.
    That`s the backup plan if I decide that I don`t trust this wheel.

  11. #11
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! XCLR8TN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeter View Post
    The one I get actually seem relatively strong. Can I bend it? Most likely if I really tried, but without getting into a major accident, I don`t think it will bend.
    The one I have doesn't feel like I'd be able to do what that guy did to it but who knows. Who is pulling backwards on their steering wheel?? All the force for me at least goes side-to-side. I dailied mine with depowered rack and ebay wheel for a few years with no issues. Well, make sure you locktite the steering wheel nut. I did have that back off a bit on me...

    That being said, I will be getting a Nardi or similiar when the build is done.
    *Jess*
    1991 White Mazda Miata
    1991 BRG Mazda Miata LS6 swap coming soon (getting close!)

  12. #12
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Quote Originally Posted by XCLR8TN View Post
    The one I have doesn't feel like I'd be able to do what that guy did to it but who knows. Who is pulling backwards on their steering wheel?? All the force for me at least goes side-to-side. I dailied mine with depowered rack and ebay wheel for a few years with no issues. Well, make sure you locktite the steering wheel nut. I did have that back off a bit on me...

    That being said, I will be getting a Nardi or similiar when the build is done.
    Yea Jess, that is kind of what I am thinking. For now I need to money elsewhere, like tightening the nut behind the wheel. I can always upgrade in the future and for the price I paid, I don`t care if it was a poor choice! I just couldn`t justify the cost of a steering wheel being half a set of tires.

  13. #13
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    Well, its getting closer to summer. I decided it was time to have a little shopping spree for the car.

    Today I bought:
    15x9 6uls (with their lugs and valves)
    2x Ultrashield Rally Sport Seats
    Stage 1 brake setup from 949

    I`m waiting on buying a truck. Once that happens, I`ll buy XIDAs.

  14. #14
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Well, I guess I should update a little. I`ll take some pictures later.

    What I put on the car:
    - TSIs
    - Touge Run front lip
    - Front Swaybar/Endlinks
    - Simpson 5 point harnesses
    - Ultrashield Rally sport seats
    - Rear Tow hook
    - Steering Wheel

    What I removed:
    - Rear Swaybar
    - Seats
    - Tie down hooks
    - OEM seat belt stuff (except for the one behind the rollbar, will remove whenever I have a lot of time)

    Waiting to install still:
    - Control Arm Bushings
    - Brake Setup
    - Tires came today (so wheels/tires should be on after they are mounted)

  15. #15
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Almost forgot the big one...

    XIDAs are on the way!

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