Oh, hai! Welcome aboard!
Oh, hai! Welcome aboard!
Well, now we know who the motor belongs too. The images make it sweater.
The only thing standing between you and your goal is the BS story you keep telling yourself as to why you can't achieve it. ― Jordan Belfort
The Daily Driven Warrior - A MSM Build Thread
Originally Posted by SM16RMSM
i uhhhhh, wow.
Said in a Shaggy/Scooby voice, I could hear many a Weezer fan say just that.
How did you break in the motor and what type of oil are you using ?
I had opposing directions from FM and Aizawa. FM said, "Everyone has their own idea of how to break in an engine based on what their father told them, manufacturer suggestions, half-remembered lore and best guesses. Our break in procedure was developed from talking to other engine builders, piston and ring manufacturers. It works quite well in our experience. We prefer a different method: variations in cylinder pressure to seat the rings. A gentle break-in often causes too much oil use once the procedure is done.
Double check the oil drain plug, install a new quality oil filter and fill the engine with approximately four quarts of 30 wt detergent oil. We recommend a change of oil and filter after 40-80 kilometers, again using straight 30 wt. If you plan to switch to synthetic oil, please wait for at least 1600 kilometers.
Do not let the car sit and idle for a long time. Once you’ve got timing set, no leaks and everything sounds and looks good, take the car out on the road.
Keep in mind that there really shouldn’t be any metal to metal contact happening within your engine, other than the rings to the cylinder walls.
The rings are the ONLY things we are interested in breaking in or seating. What seats rings is cylinder pressure. Rings and pistons are designed so that cylinder pressure sneaks behind the compression rings and forces them out against the newly honed cylinder wall. Take your warmed up car out on the road, find a nice straight stretch and do a couple of heavy throttle runs in third or fourth gear from about 2500-5500 rpm. Each time you hit 5500-6000 rpm, snap your foot off the gas and let the car coast down to 2500 rpm while in gear, to pull high vacuum in the cylinders. Repeat this step about five times and you should have a nicely mated set of rings and cylinders.
Take it home, recheck for leaks, make sure fans work, etc and then change the oil again. Once you have done the ring seating, use the motor normally but no full throttle. Try to vary rpm on the highway and no redline for 500km.
That’s it! Have fun!"
Aizawa said, "We've set the ECU to limit you to 3K rpm and filled it with synthetic oil: drive the car for 1000km (600 miles) and we'll change the oil, then you can use the full rev range, but don't do sustained high rpm runs until you have another 1000km on the motor, at least." Since the MS2 I wanted to use wasn't ready yet and Aizawa used an HKS unit they had on hand, I'd no choice so to speak but to follow their instructions. They swore up and down that they've broken in literally hundreds of motors this way and that in the long run their way was good. They built the motor, so I went with it. We'll see!
Oh, currently has Mobil1 5w-40 but at the next change I was going to try 0w-40.
Awesome follow up, Paul. That is an interesting way to look at breaking the engine in.
It's always fascinated me to hear different opinions on how to make power, how to break in a motor, etc., particularly from veteran builders.
I wonder how they break in engines at the factory? Do they run the engine to seat the rings and drain and then add new oil? Nice build.
Last edited by wannafbody; 06-03-2013 at 08:22 AM.
I've been searching since you posted this as I thought it a great question but so far have mostly found other forums with people sharing what they've seen on factory tours; I've seen no consistent answer.
I toured a couple of plants when I was younger, growing up in Detroit. I don't recall seeing anything. I know the specialty, hand-built performance factory engines are all tested individually, such as the GM, Ford, AMG, and BMW 'S' motors. I haven't seen a break in on those either.
I have an uncle who worked RE for the BOC GM center. I know some of the tests they performed on competitor products both on in the lab and in the field, from what he told me, circa '03.
I don't like this break in procedure. Usually the old fashioned way works wonders since you have to change the oil very often anyways
My break in procedure is as follow.
run 30 straight oil for the first 50 miles, go easy on the block in this stage.
dump the oil, watch for a grayish color in the oil
run something like 20w50 oil for the next 200-500 miles, increase RPM to 4000 occasionally
dump oil
then use 10w40 oil for the 1000 miles, increase RPM limit to 5000
dump the oil.
use 10w30 oil for the next 3000 miles, increase RPM limit to 6000
dump the oil
use 5w30 or 5w30 oil forever, drive the car to redline
engines built with forged pistons have more clearance in the piston wall so they tend to burn more oil when they are cold.
Run these motors hard only when they are fully warm and always check for a grayish color in the oil this is a sign that the engine is still breaking in
Never broken an engine this way and I don't use synthetic oil in any of my engines
Last edited by Hyper; 06-26-2013 at 04:06 PM.
Which way, FM or RSA's method? I went with RSA, as I said, and after the last oil change I've not seen anything other than the usual used oil.
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