Does anyone have solid information on what this entails? What exactly needs to be done?
Thanks for any help given.
Does anyone have solid information on what this entails? What exactly needs to be done?
Thanks for any help given.
1993 Electronic Pearl Blue - 1.6, T25 SR20 turbo on 14psi with custom stainless steel tubular manifold, 3 inch stainless steel downpipe, RX7 460 injectors, DiYPNP MS2, MTX-L wideband.
Storey's turbo NA
Why would you want to? Is it malfunctioning? Because honest to God, having ABS is faster around the track than not having it. Even an old ABS like the NA6.
Too be honest I don't think it operates. I slam on my brakes everyone and awhile and don't feel the operation of the abs. The pump in my engine bay is hideous especially if it's not working.
1993 Electronic Pearl Blue - 1.6, T25 SR20 turbo on 14psi with custom stainless steel tubular manifold, 3 inch stainless steel downpipe, RX7 460 injectors, DiYPNP MS2, MTX-L wideband.
Storey's turbo NA
If you slam on the brakes and they don't lock up, I would think it works?
- Team Fail Motorsports: Failing Hardcore Since 2009 -
Originally Posted by Mr.Woolery
You should feel the pedal punching you in the foot if it works.
I'd say keep ABS if it works.
Since you asked how to remove it and not if people think you should remove it or not (), I looked around a bit and this is what I found.
*Note, I have not done this but this is what I found after searching around for a bit
The easiest way to do it would be to remove all the lines and proportioning valve from a donor car with no abs and reinstall them in yours. That would be the easiest and most cost-effective route. The second easiest, yet not so cost effective route would be to purchase the lines and valve new from Mazda. This is going to cost some coin. A third option would be to purchase generic lines from whomever and bend and route them yourself following the distribution layout of a non-abs Miata and using an adjustable prop valve from Summit or FM to balance it out. To me, the third option sounds the easiest. You could literally route the lines wherever you want in the car and, as long as you know what you're doing, make them look pretty neat.I bought a complete non-ABS set of brake lines and proportioning valve off a friend that was parting out a wrecked Miata. The ABS master cylinder will not work so I'm in the process of replacing that. My friend included a master cylinder off a 92 car but it will not work with my 94 booster so I'll need to buy one that matches my year car. Other than that it's a pretty simple job.
Paul | IG- @psulja
Build thread:
1991 Mariner Blue - Built 1.8 swap, EFR, Fab9Tuning, Tii drivetrain
I've got a non ABS master cylinder with prop valve - I'll trade you straight for all your ABS junk.
Make up the hardlines from generic pieces at the local parts store (fittings should be common), keep your soft lines. Should take a while, but be straightforward.
I am actually currently parting out my car.
1993 Electronic Pearl Blue - 1.6, T25 SR20 turbo on 14psi with custom stainless steel tubular manifold, 3 inch stainless steel downpipe, RX7 460 injectors, DiYPNP MS2, MTX-L wideband.
Storey's turbo NA
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
