Dyno charts for Miata intakes or exhausts?

[Tnemec5]

I see all of the manufactures saying 5+hp this and 11+hp that, but are any of these backed up somewhere with charts?
I have a couple imports magazines but there is never anything Miata specific, lame

I just installed a used GReddy intake and while it sounds great I am not quite sure there is much hp gain, maybe just seat of the pants hp. Would be nice to see charts from all of the manufactures, does anyone know of such charts or have something they can scan and upload here?

[— Agent☣Orange —]

I recently saw some magazine on the rack about just this topic. They dyno'd a Miata before and after an intake change but I can't remember what the magazine title was.

A topic like this can run several pages of heated back and forth but generally it will come down to you not getting any noticeable gains from your butt dyno. An aftermarket intake might give you a few HP at the top of your RPM range at the cost of some lower end power. They sure sound good though.

I think most will agree that any real gains will come from upgrading the whole intake-exhaust system.

[wannafbody]

Figure 1 to 2 HP

[MX5RACER]

By intakes, I think you mean the piping from the throttle body out to the filter. I have tested a few home-built versions. A 2.5" pipe from the throttle body to a filter mounted just behind the headlight assembly and a 3" pipe that has a filter a little closer to the engine than the 2.5" set-up. The 3" intake set-up was good for 3HP at 7,000, but LOST 10FT/LBS OF TORQUE @ 4,000.

I have also tested a VCTS w/butterflies vs a VICS manifold on my VVT motor. The VICS manifold was good for 14HP @ 7,100, but below 6,000 was 2-3hp less than the VCTS manifold. Not sure if any of this helps you or not. I have dyno graphs of all my testing if you want to check them out.

[—tsingson—]

I noticed when I used the AEM short ram that the power curve felt like it had changed. It felt like I gained more power in the mid range over stock. Note the key word was felt. Don't know what it actually did though.

[— kung fu jesus —]

On the '92 (B6 engines), you won't see much gain with an intake or exhaust. Mainly nice noise makers.

If you want to uncork it, elimination of the flapper door MAF, header, exhaust, timing will yield some significant results.

Best, esiest way to eliminate the flapper is with a standalone ECU, like a Megasquirt.

[MX5RACER]

Here is the last dyno comparision I have. This is the VCTS manifold with working VTCS butterflies overlaid with a VICS manifold on my VVT motor. There were no other changes made to the car other than tuning the fuel map for the VICS manifold. The VICS butterflies are being operated at 5,400rpms. The Blue/Green line is the VCTS manifold and the Red lines are the VICS manifold. A word of caution when looking at this graph, somehow the Torque scale got changed and is different than the horsepower. If you look at the HP, look at the left side for values, TQ, right side for values.

DYNO VICS VS VCTS.jpg

[— Phatmiata —]

I the 1.6L engine turn off the A/C for instant hp gain

I kidd I kidd

I think for N/A gains you will gain more with the complete setup, intake, headers, free flow cat, and exhaust

[GENSIS]

1-4 hp on the exhaust. Do some headwork and it will help with the bolt-nns.

[Flyin 92]

If it's the 1.6L engine, turn off the A/C for instant hp gain

Best advice so far

Like KFJ said, Megasquirt would be the best option. Both the 1.6 and 1.8 cars would benefit from a stand alone and removal of the MAF/AFM. One of these days I'll pony up for a MS and ditch my AFM.

[BoBo]

^ megasquirt + headwork and bolt-onns will give decent results.However, with all that money spent, it could have been for a voodoo 2 turbo.

[Flyin 92]

Headwork will go along way no matter which route you choose.

[MX5RACER]

I just picked up a Euro "Flat Top" manifold, I hope to get it on the car and over to the dyno soon. Look for an upcoming update!

[Tungsten6]

I had a eBay intake on my car. It sounded great and throttle responce was a million times better, but in all honesty it didn't feel any faster.
Now after I did the exhaust (enthuza catback) it sounded great and It felt a lot quicker
my "power" mods were only
enthuza catback
FM lightweight flywheel (car rev'd much better)
eBay intake

towards the end of the video i floor it in 2nd. You can hear (IMO) how much quicker it gains revs

[Massiah]

No significant gains to be had as the factory ecu is quite shit, to be frank. It runs entirely too lean at the bottom/midrange and the timing map is way too conservative. You can do all the N/A things like I/H/E, headwork, cams, flat-top, etc... and maybe gain 5-10whp up top but without changing the ECU don't even spend the money.

On a dynapack hub you're looking at 80-90whp(1.6), 100whp(1.8) stock. With I/H/E and no tune - 95-100whp (1.6) & 105-110whp (1.8). Aforementioned mods + ECU is ~110whp (1.6) & 130whp (1.8 with flat-top).

The 1.6 can actually be "tuned" with the factory AFM to a certain degree. By messing with the springs for the flapper you can change the fueling a little. Timing is still conservative but a couple of 1.6's around here that have been tuned this way + I/H/E are making about 100-105whp. On a dynapack that's pretty damn good.