*NEW* Miata Fender Braces NA+NB

[★ V8Roadsters ★]

Hey guys, here is a quick overview of use of material and design.

NEW Razor stabilizers NA+NB



Our Razor stabilizers use square tubing which offers the best torsion stiffness via uniform geometry and larger cross sectional area. Yielding in better tension and compression than plate and rectangular styles. This while offering the lowest weight to strength ratio. The main tube running for the lower door hinge, the stiffest area of the uni-body, to the upper mounting point of the fender. The triangulation built into the center of the brace transfers load across the entire section of the fender area. The braces are keep close to the chassis to help eliminate flexing between the four mounting locations.

- Square tubing design
- Laser cut and CNC formed mounting areas
- TIG and MIG welded
- Red powder coated
- Hardware included
- Lightweight design 3lbs

We will be posting up more info such as pricing / availability etc, on the group buy so make sure to tuck some money away so you can get in on a great deal!

There will also be one set that will be given away for free via online raffle, so make sure to check back soon!

V8Roadsters Team

[★ V8Roadsters ★]

There will be a special low down group buy price on MazdaRoadster.net so make sure to get in on that to save some bucks!!!

approx pricing is $235 MSRP, with the MazdaRoadster.net Group Buy Price at $205

oh and we will be raffling off a set for free as well via the group buy!!

[— Phatmiata —]

Sweet These look Killer I am in for a set for sure!!!

[TheButcher]

There really should be a bar from the top door hinge to the front mount. The only way to add proper structural rigidity to so something is through triangulation. I think you guys should rethink those.

[wannafbody]

If you're getting flex with those braces then you have bigger issues elsewhere.

[DK Wolf]

There really should be a bar from the top door hinge to the front mount. The only way to add proper structural rigidity to so something is through triangulation. I think you guys should rethink those.

Mmmmmm......no

[— John J —]

With the gussets properly placed and box tubing's strength, flex will not be an issue.

[TheButcher]

Mmmmmm......no

Have any education behind that comment or just your typical shock and awe comments that got you banned on cr?

V8r has had issues with their control arms (that they know about and worked on and are currently working on) with the triangulation and gusseting. The "box" they triangulated in the fender brace is good if the front top arm was not as long as it is. That attachment point is where your load would come from. And while i agree with the it's good enough comment. I feel that if your going to engineer something for frame strengthening in a racing environment. Then it should be engineered correctly and with as much torsional rigidity as possible. If this is for the hard parker's then its perfect just needs more bling. Maybe some holes for speakers or a skid plate for mo lo.

Im not saying its a bad product or the company is bad. They are trying and produce i feel the best V8 swap kit out there. I have one in my garage right now next to the torn apart ls3. I guess as a previous engineering student I'm just tired of seeing new products come out that are intended for hardcore use but not built that way. Its not that hard (or expensive) to throw something on solid works and see how to make it better or if it really even works the way you think it should.

Im sure all the DK's of the world disagree with me. But, that's ok they just do not have enough education to understand how much they really don't know. But, he paints a scooter well. And that's a step in the right direction.

[SM16RMSM]

^^^ That is really uncalled for. Again, I see your point as I'm also going through school for engineering. But as I look at it, do you want something to offer zero flex and weigh in at 10 lbs each? The setup as it stands, I say will take about 70-80% of the chassis flex out while being light as possible. When my family bought GT American race cars back in 2005, we came up with a new design for the chassis in 2006 and put it to use for the 2006 race season. The end result ended up resulting in a less stiff chassis but creating more corner grip = faster lap times. It kind of backwards but we proved that the sliding chassis resulted in faster cars. With Miata being very light as is, we don't need a ton of support in that area. There not enough flex in that area that we need to be worried about. The first area that anyone should look into is the frame rails.
slider.JPG

I made a cheap drawing of the slider that I'm referring to. This sliding tube is only on the right side and at one point.

[—tsingson—]

Hey guys. Let's keep this on track. If you have a problem with the design of the product, please PM the sponsor with your recommendations.

[TheButcher]

^^^ That is really uncalled for. Again, I see your point as I'm also going through school for engineering. But as I look at it, do you want something to offer zero flex and weigh in at 10 lbs each? The setup as it stands, I say will take about 70-80% of the chassis flex out while being light as possible. When my family bought GT American race cars back in 2005, we came up with a new design for the chassis in 2006 and put it to use for the 2006 race season. The end result ended up resulting in a less stiff chassis but creating more corner grip = faster lap times. It kind of backwards but we proved that the sliding chassis resulted in faster cars. With Miata being very light as is, we don't need a ton of support in that area. There not enough flex in that area that we need to be worried about. The first area that anyone should look into is the frame rails.
slider.JPG

I made a cheap drawing of the slider that I'm referring to. This sliding tube is only on the right side and at one point.

Good post. Yes you DO want flex. +1 for your post. No sleep + moving + DK's redonkulousness = a grumpy butcher.

I do not think the flex points they have built in is the correct way to do it. But, as they say...if you think you can do better...then do it. If not shut up. So, ill be shutting up. For now...lol.

[— John J —]

4 year Toolmaking apprenticeship @ Chrysler Corp.
Dual Major, Manufacturing Engineering & Management
MBA-Technical Emphasis
Over 20 years of performing work in manufacturing.

If your are building a tank, the subject part would be inadequate. I have been driving my 90 Miata with a 2007 LS2 that I build using mainly V8 ROADSTER parts without issue for over 3 years. I am sure and know that items have failed in cars with their parts. The major automotive manufacturers and suppliers also have experienced the same failures in significant numbers. I am also a retired director of manufacturing at a major division of Allied-Signal.

[SM16RMSM]

I really like it, and the price is set right too. Question is, what is the weight difference between these awesome fender brace compared to Frog Arms?

[ShockerGT]

I cant wait for these to come out. In for the group buy! Will pick them up local in Tampa as well.

[★ Shandelle ★]

The tubes are not as long as they appear. The base tube is 18" and the connecting tube is 8" The calculated torsion of the base tube according to material and length is .002. The connecting tube and gussets narrow the actually tube lengths to around 6". By bringing them together in the central location you spread the load/transfer evenly across the fender area. Torsion is key and square tubing provides better torsional properties than that of plate or rectangular tubing. The braces are held extremely close to the body. So close a small area of extra seam needs to be trimmed or bent to fit. The others that I have seen move the braces outward up to 3/4" reducing their torsion factor. According to my figures there was greater torsional value by building a tighter fitting brace with central load distribution.

Our braces weigh in at 3lbs per side. I'm not sure what the weights are for others.