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Thread: Konig Flatout, would they be strong enough for track/autocross conditions?

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    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone SM16RMSM's Avatar
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    Konig Flatout, would they be strong enough for track/autocross conditions?

    Well, I bought the wheel/tire combo from forum member Tungsten6 about a month ago and I finally put them on the car. I'm very happy with them and the bronze look. Well, I going to autocross the car a bit until I can finish the new track car which is still in the planning stages. I'm kind of worried about the possibility of a wheel snapping/breaking under hard driving conditions. I've really never though about it before until last night. I started looking into Konig Flatout and it seams to be a wide version of the Konig Helium and uses the same cast as Rays's CE28. Knowing that, I'm thinking they might not be well suited for hard driving use with how thin the spokes are. I'm thinking I should look into buying a dedicated set of wheel for track/autocross use like Kosei K1 or something along those lines. Should I look into a second set of wheels for track use? I thinking about a set of Kosei K1 in 15x8 wrapped in either BF Goodrich g-Force Rivals, Hankook R-S3, or Toyo Proxex R1R for the track car. These will most likely be swapped onto the track car in the future when it completed

    I've done my first autocross last night and I very happy with my car. First time out and placed third overall. That was with a stock MSM on Nitto NeoGen tires, chassis reinforcement, and a very bad alignment. A 1.6L lightweight Miata placed first and a Evo placed second.

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  2. #2
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jux's Avatar
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    Nice car!

    A cast version of a design meant to be forged clearly isn't ideal. However, they should be okay.
    As with any other wheel, you'll want to check for signs of damage on a regular basis. Since they look to be for autox, you won't have as many chances for damage as on road courses (no offs into gravel and tire walls), but still, after a certain point, wheels become wear items. They're just changed less frequently than tires.
    Hope that helps.
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    '08.5 CWP MS3 GT - AST 4100, TriPoint Rear Sway and Links, JBR STS w/ bushings and lockout plate, Moddiction Anvil II

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power atlnb's Avatar
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    All wheels can break whether they are cheap or expensive
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  4. #4
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone DK Wolf's Avatar
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    You'll be fine. But as previously mentioned, just inspect them for hairline cracks every event and you should be good. But I'd eventually move towards wheels purpose built for the abuse... such as the ever affordable 6uls
    1994 Mazda Miata, 1992 Mazda Miata Sold, 1995 Mazda Rx7 (500hp) Sold, 1999 Subaru GC8 (310hp) Sold

  5. #5
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Trendie's Avatar
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    Everything wears down and needs to be replaced eventually.
    For instance I've got a pair of te37v's that have warped centers from too much track abuse.

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    Super Moderator atank's Avatar
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    And always remember to tighten your lug nutz!!



  7. #7
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone SM16RMSM's Avatar
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    Lugs are torqued to 85 ft/lbs. With them being so nice looking and I really like them, that fact that a ran the first autocross with them kinda put me on the side of over worrying. I don't want to push my luck and having to replace one down the road along with whatever else is damaged. I've already lost a brake rotor during warm up season at Daytona and that cost me more money than I was hoping for.
    “The only thing standing between you and your goal is the BS story you keep telling yourself as to why you can't achieve it.” ― Jordan Belfort

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  8. #8
    Idling - Listen to it purr... flamehead08's Avatar
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    Ive run them on the track and there just fine in fact Konig offers discounts on this wheel to racers.

  9. #9
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I'll echo the above: Wheels are wear items.

    I would be more mindful of inspecting them if you use R-comp tires. 949 Racing considers their wheels wear items, but I have seen them take heavy damage in racing conditions and hold up remarkably well. I had a hard, HARD excursion off on a track with my RPF1s. Bent the front subframe, wheels were fine.

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