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Thread: Recurring overheating after Coolant Reroute install?

  1. #1
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Recurring overheating after Coolant Reroute install?

    Ok now I am getting frustrated with this recurring overheating (rising temp over than normal). This is after I installed the M-Tuned reroute. When I am burping the system meaning running the engine with rad cap open, front end elevated and HVAC setting to high the engine temperature is normal even when I idled it for over 30 minutes. I let her sit overnight, the morning after I check levels and top off fire her up then overheating starts in less than 15 minutes. I repeatedly burp her twice already and as long as the rad cap is open I have no temp spiking problems even when I leave her idling for over 30 minutes. Only when I let her sit overnight and replace the rad cap back on. Also I noticed that the coolant I place inside the reservoir is empty the morning after. I toped it off twice too. I also noted that the coolant flows inside as I confirmed that when the rad cap was off (stream running was noted).

    Do I have air in the system that I have not bled off?

    No exhaust smoke, so cylinder head gasket is intact.

    Thanks in advance guys.

  2. #2
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Slipstreem's Avatar
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    Cap off no overheating. Cap on you begin to overheat. Possible your cap crapped out on you?

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Possibly not, old cap still holding pressure and I also have a new cap. Both resulted the same.
    Life is short drive a Miata

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    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Hyper's Avatar
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    Try bypassing the mixing manifold, isnt your car turbo?

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    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Shouldn't the coolant reservoir be empty when the motor is cool/cold? Its a expansion tank, technically, since its a closed/pressurized system so it should only have coolant in it when pressurized by heat/temp, right?


    Also when you say you had the front elevated, how high? I recall reading the rad cap has to be the highest point to allow the air to escape, i think 10-12" is what i recall people suggesting and what i did maybe higher. It sounds like air is in the system.

  6. #6
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Hyper;179252]Try bypassing the mixing manifold, isnt your car turbo?[/QUOTE

    Supercharged

  7. #7
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    Shouldn't the coolant reservoir be empty when the motor is cool/cold? Its a expansion tank, technically, since its a closed/pressurized system so it should only have coolant in it when pressurized by heat/temp, right?


    Also when you say you had the front elevated, how high? I recall reading the rad cap has to be the highest point to allow the air to escape, i think 10-12" is what i recall people suggesting and what i did maybe higher. It sounds like air is in the system.
    Should it be empty? Why am I having the impression that it should be full. I may have misunderstood what I read on the warning label on the reservoir. Lol please clear my thoughts? I did elevate it pretty high. I heard bubbling inside the car so it must be air trap somewhere inside. I just ordered the Lisle spray free funnel so I can burp it better so we shall see. Thanks.

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    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    The coolant oveflow tank is for overflow, iirc, (maybe someone will correct me on this if im mistaken), the coolant system pressurizes during engine use.

    The radiator cap maintains pressure by allowing excessive pressure bleed off and it goes into the overflow tank. Once the engine is turned off and cools off, the coolant system depressurizes and can sometimes suck some coolant back in, so i may have some once its fully cooled but not much. If the radiator is full when cool then the system if full.

  9. #9
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Hopefully I'm not the bearer of bad news.

    Here it comes...

    BUT.

    With the cap off, idling the cylinders are not "pumping" to their full potential. And the minuscule gasses that are floating around are escaping as "Burp gas".

    Cap the system and run it they build up. Form an air pocket. Thus it heads top-side and you see the engine overheat.

    What you have is (and I hate to do this without checking it myself!) a seeping MLS {Multi-Layer Steel} head gasket. Only when the system is sealed will you have the problem.

    Coolant pressurizes enough that on the intake stroke it will be drawn in between the metal layers of the head gasket. On the compression stroke there will be a slight seepage into the cooling system from the cylinder.

    You are Ca.. Get someone with a gas tester to sniff your overflow jug. Fill it to the cold fill when it's cold. Drive it there and if you have tail pipe readings from the jug ship it here and I'll get ya fixed up redneck style.

    Hey, Hope I'm wrong!

  10. #10
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power mx54life's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCGreasemonkey View Post
    Hopefully I'm not the bearer of bad news.

    Here it comes...

    BUT.

    With the cap off, idling the cylinders are not "pumping" to their full potential. And the minuscule gasses that are floating around are escaping as "Burp gas".

    Cap the system and run it they build up. Form an air pocket. Thus it heads top-side and you see the engine overheat.

    What you have is (and I hate to do this without checking it myself!) a seeping MLS {Multi-Layer Steel} head gasket. Only when the system is sealed will you have the problem.

    Coolant pressurizes enough that on the intake stroke it will be drawn in between the metal layers of the head gasket. On the compression stroke there will be a slight seepage into the cooling system from the cylinder.

    You are Ca.. Get someone with a gas tester to sniff your overflow jug. Fill it to the cold fill when it's cold. Drive it there and if you have tail pipe readings from the jug ship it here and I'll get ya fixed up redneck style.

    Hey, Hope I'm wrong!
    Well I do hope so. We shall see after I burp this baby one more time properly. Funny but this was not happening when I took the thermostat out and drove her around without it. I do have a brand new t-stat and I confirmed it to be working. If I run it first w/o the rad cap then cap it when it is hot (after 20 minutes of idling) I don't have overheating problem. It is the morning after when I start it from cold when I get high temps. Really weird.

  11. #11
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mx54life View Post
    Well I do hope so. We shall see after I burp this baby one more time properly. Funny but this was not happening when I took the thermostat out and drove her around without it. I do have a brand new t-stat and I confirmed it to be working. If I run it first w/o the rad cap then cap it when it is hot (after 20 minutes of idling) I don't have overheating problem. It is the morning after when I start it from cold when I get high temps. Really weird.
    Cold. Remember George and the shrinkage episode?

    Metal shrinks when cold. But so does everything I can think of but H2O. It is the one thing that expands. That is why our oceans don't freeze solid from bottom to top and turn us into Uranus. (Picked a planet and had small joke factor, but is a gas giant)

  12. #12
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Hyper's Avatar
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    Try bypassing the mixing manifold

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